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Has anyone had any experiences with a 7.3 powerstroke engine seeming to surge upon acceleration during the beginning of a rainstorm when the road is just starting to get wet, but not fully wet?
I'm hoping this is merely some tire slippage as it only seems to happen when the road is slightly wet and upon acceleration.
But today, I was disturbed because the service engine soon light came on shortly after one of these surges, but the engine didn't stall. Upon shutting off and restarting, the SES light went off. the Check engine light never came on.
An hour later when the road had dried up, no symptoms of engine surging or slippage. And that was going on flat roads as well as a 13 mile climb of over 3000 feet on I-80 at about 65 mph.
I don't think it's the CMP sensor, but I haven't had mine changed yet and I'm pushing 125K miles now. (I've got one in the glove compartment, but if I can avoid replacing it, I'll do so.) No problems with startup or power, just the occasional feel like a surge / stall / slippage on wet roads
Not sure if the differential friction modifier is too much or too little. I haven;'t changed the lube and friction modifier for over 50000 miles now.
Fuel filter was changed 10,000 mile ago, looked OK. By the way, Im running B20 from a commercial fueling station.
So my question is -- engine trouble or tire trouble? It only seems to happen on wet surfaces.
I'm a newbie to this forum; any advice would be appreciated.
could be tires. i just had to put on some new ones. every time id step on the throttle the wheel would spin on wet roads. wasnt sure at 1st what it was. felt like a surge in the moter and my tires were some what good.figures it out when i went to pass someone i steped on the throttle and the truck went side ways..i put on new tires and havent had a problem since...
Welcome to FTE, Tire slippage won't trip the SES light. Sounds like something else going on. You need to get your codes pulled. If you SES light came on there will be a code stored. That should help you narrow down the cause of your surging. Could be moisture related, sensor wire/connection, ect.
Pull your codes and post back, I'm sure someone here will know what it is. You should be able to get you codes checked free a most parts houses, although some scanners don't check all PSD codes.
Thanks for the quick replies everyone.
Knock on wood, she started up this morning with no problems driving into Salt Lake City. No SES light either.
I'm thinking that I have some taller, but narrower profile tires than stock on the truck now. (245/55R16 or something like that, I can't quite remember. Power Stroke Registry did an article on retrofitting these tires a few years ago. The tires have about 25K miles on them now. Been rotating them every 7.5K to 10K miles.) Next time it rains, I'll try engaging the 4WD and see if the slippage / surging symptom comes back. (Maybe not enough weight atop that rear axle?)
As a weekend project, I might just try changing out that camshaft position sensor anyway -- so at least I know how to do it if the CMP goes out in the middle of the Utah desert! Also just have a repair shop run the OBD II code to see if anything shows up -- I have a feeling something will because of the exhaust brake and disconnecting the wiring harness for the exhaust back pressure warm-up valve actuator. (Pacbrake works well otherwise, especially in the mountains where I live.)
I'll post more if anything unsual shows up. Might be helpful for other people who have experienced this.
If your truck is a dually, and if it were not for the SES light I would suspect rear tires wearing. The slipperiest time on a road is when if first starts raining. I had a total pile of junk Dodge dually and if the tires had 25k on them it would be like driving on ice when it began raining.
After reading some replies here and checking out forums on "dieselstop", it appears that my intermittent symptoms are the CPS going bad. I guess 125K miles is better than average...
Does anyone know if the new "blue" CPSs made by International are really better than the older "black" ones? I read somewhere that the newer "blue" ones provide a stronger signal from the Hall-effect sensor.
These forums are really helpful for the do-it-yourselfer.
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