I have 71' f100 and trying to add duraspark elec. ign., not getting any power to the box. red wire hooked up to "S", white wire hooked up to "I". Does not get any power to either terminal, does not get any power to the coil, dist. I've tried everything, I've overlooked something. Does someone have a schematic on how this thing should be wired. Thought the NSS might have something to do with it, it's got a tranny from a 85' van (AOD), the motor and ignition from a 79' f100. Any help at all would be appr.

 

Here is a diagram to make it work. You need to hook the red wire of the module directly up to the ignition switch or find a ignition on powered terminal in the fuse box.

Put the white wire on the "s" terminal. The white wire will get power only when cranking. The "s" terminal gets it's power from teh neutral start switch(if you have one).

The "i" terminal has a wire that goes directly to the coil +. This is the resistor bypass wire.

Try to find your old original points coil + wire, and hook it back up to the coil + terminal. It will have the resistor made into it. If it's long gone, take a new wire and run it over to where you hooked the red module wire(ignition switch or fuse box) and tie them together. Hook the other end of this wire to a large white resistor you can get at the parts store that is made for a Chrysler product. Mount the resistor out in the open, since it gets warm. Hook another wire from the other side of the resistor to the coil +.

 

Ballast resistor -special connectors
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In order to get a hot spark while the starter motor is running the coil is designed to work on about 9 volts. When the starter is running, due to the heavy current draw, the available battery voltage drops. If you run a standard coil with about 14 volts (charging system voltage) the coil will overheat and burn up. The output stage of the ignition module is only designed to handle a fixed amount of current also. The higher voltage will force more current thru the coil and thru the module output also. To bring the current under control for normal running, a ballast resistor is used. The value of the ballast resistor is determined by the design of the system. Ford uses a resistor wire on some vehicles as part of the ignition harness. This wire is made using controlled amounts of impurities in the copper, and a specific wire size, to produce a specified number of ohms/foot resistance. The length of the wire used then determines the final resistance value. Ford has found this to be more reliable than an actual ballast resistor module like Chrysler uses. The heat from the
power dissipated is spread over a larger area. The connections to a Chrysler type ballast resistor get quite hot and are a point of failure in those systems.

If you use a ceramic type ballast resistor the connections should NOT be made with standard crimp on wire terminals. Go to an appliance parts store and get the crimp on wire connectors made for heater terminals in an electric dryer. These terminals are made of a special alloy that will work with the effects of high temperatures without corroding or losing their crimp/connection pressure. These connectors are a good thing to use on the blower motor resistor module used for the heater blower motor speed control connections also.



Conventional Point type ignition systems:
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These specs are for a 1959-1974 systems, the closest I had.

Specs for Ford conventional point type system:
All resistance measurements at 75°F
Primary resistance..... 1.40 - 1.54 Ohms
Secondary resistance..... 7600 - 8800 Ohms
Amp draw engine stopped..... 4.5 A
Amp draw engine idling..... 2.5 A
Primary resistor..... 1.30 -1.40 Ohms

DS-II system Primary resistor..... 1.30 -1.40 Ohms also.

The Mopar dual resistors are 5 ohms on one side and 0.5 ohms on the other side. Use the 0.5 ohm side and use two modules in series. The rest of the required resistance will come from the other wiring and connections.