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Squeaking clutch?

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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #1  
CrazySpyder69's Avatar
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Squeaking clutch?

Something weird is happening with my clutch. When ever im going up a steep hill and im slowly letting off the clutch and giving it gas my clutch squeaks really loudly, its kind of like a squeak/wine sound. Its really hard to describe. But sometimes when im not even on a hill it will make the squeak/wine. It does it right when I start up my truck and when ive been driving it for long periods of time. It doesnt make the sound EVERY time I let off the clutch but enough to make me wonder whats going on.

Any one know whats going on? Is this bad? Or am I worrying too much about nothing?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 12:01 AM
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My 03 did that then i got the master cylinder replaced and it went away for a bit then it came back. Mine made the noise whenever there was a load letting out the clutch... hope this helps!
 
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 12:07 AM
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Usually when you are applying pressure to the clutch pedal and there is a squealing noise it means that a new throwout bearing is on the horizon.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile
Usually when you are applying pressure to the clutch pedal and there is a squealing noise it means that a new throwout bearing is on the horizon.
Uh oh. So what does this mean? What is going on in the trasnmission that would cause it to squeak? How can I prevent this in the future? How much would it cost for a new throwout bearing? How do I know when the throwout bearing is done?

So many questions so few answers.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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You'll know when the throwout bearing is gone, when you can no longer take it in or out of gear. at this time some people will tell you to replace the clutch, master cylinder and t-bearing all at the same time. i dont say to replace the master cylinder, unless you have high milage.

also read this
The hydraulic clutch, slave cylinder/throwout bearing is another item you should pay close attention to. After time, the slave cylinder fails to release the clutch completely. If you are having trouble shifting into 1st and reverse while stationary or if your truck creeps forward with the clutch pedal depressed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is probably at fault. Unfortunately there is no easy fix here as the transmission must be removed to replace the combination slave cylinder and throwout bearing.


Here's the summitracing part number for what i'ld recommned for you. HAY-90-239 . it comes with the throw out bearing. most people can install the lutch them selves, if you cant, just got to a little shop and have them do it, but make sure someone recommends them. it is an important piece. it will run you about $250 for the clutch and $100-175 for installation.

www.summitracing.com
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CrazySpyder69
Uh oh. So what does this mean? What is going on in the trasnmission that would cause it to squeak? How can I prevent this in the future? How much would it cost for a new throwout bearing? How do I know when the throwout bearing is done?

So many questions so few answers.
The throwout bearing is not in the tranny, but you will have to drop the tranny to get accress to the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing is located on the forward end of the slave cylinder; this bearing pushes in the fingers of the clutch plate when you push the clutch pedal down. While it's true that you will be able to drive awhile and this probably won't leave you stranded, it will tend to spin on the tranny input as the bearing degrades. This will cause undesireable wear on the tranny input and may result in that having to be replaced. But it really does take deliberate neglect to get to this point.

You may or may not want to put a new clutch in. This is best determined once the tranny is out. The thing is, to get to the throwout bearing or to get to the clutch is all the same labor (drop tranny). This is why it will be a good time to carefully evaluate your clutch. I would also HIGHLY recommend replacing the pilot bearing while you have the tranny out. That little $8 bearing located in the end of the engine crank is a wear item. When it begins to fail, it will cause the tranny input shaft to spin, making it hard and eventually impossible to shift into gear when stopped. Then it will degrade to the point that you will have to match engine and tranny input shaft speeds in order to shift when driving. No matter what condition your clutch is in, do replace that little bugger while you're in there, to save future aggrivation.
 

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jul 13, 2006 at 11:26 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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Ok wow. Thx a whole lot for that. Man so much info.

Well it IS hard to put my truck in gear while im stopped. So that would be my throwout bearing, right?

Ok if I do decide to replace the throwout bearing my self I minus well replace the pilot bearing while im at it.

Thx again for the help.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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Im having difficulty finding throwout bearings online. I found some but it wont let me select the year, it only goes up to 1997. Is it all the same?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 02:06 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Alan D.
You'll know when the throwout bearing is gone, when you can no longer take it in or out of gear. at this time some people will tell you to replace the clutch, master cylinder and t-bearing all at the same time. i dont say to replace the master cylinder, unless you have high milage.
How many miles is considered "high mileage"?

Im sorry, I dont mean to be annoying asking so many questions but I have so many questions to ask. lol
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 10:33 PM
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Does anyone know what material the bearing retainer is on the M5OD? My BW T-5 in my mustang was aluminum factory but I changed it to a steel one the first time I put a clutch in. I already had my clutch changed at 26,000 miles and put in a heavy duty Zoom Kevlar which came as a complete kit with new slave, throw out, clutch disk and pressure plate. I think I paid about $320.00 for the HP2117-1 Clutch set and another $160 to have it installed at a shop that a friend of mine owns. Nothing wrong with the stock disk but the fingers on the pressure plate went bad and wouldnt clamp down so it was scorching the pressure plate.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CrazySpyder69
Ok wow. Thx a whole lot for that. Man so much info.

Well it IS hard to put my truck in gear while im stopped. So that would be my throwout bearing, right?

Ok if I do decide to replace the throwout bearing my self I minus well replace the pilot bearing while im at it.

Thx again for the help.
More than likely that's the pilot bearing seizing/sticking and turning the input shaft while the clutch is released. If it shifts fine in higher gears (less of a difference in input/output shaft speed) and is a pain to get into gear at idle or shifting to 2nd, then you can almost be assured it is the pilot bearing sticking.

Usually a bad throwout bearing makes it difficult to work the clutch, especially at high RPMs. Not to mention its going to make a ton of noise when you start putting pressure on it!

I would consider "high" mileage to be over 150k or so. However if the truck has more than 100k on it I'd go ahead and do it just to keep from having to take everything back apart should it fail later on.
 

Last edited by Bart99GT; Jul 14, 2006 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Level2
Does anyone know what material the bearing retainer is on the M5OD? My BW T-5 in my mustang was aluminum factory but I changed it to a steel one the first time I put a clutch in. I already had my clutch changed at 26,000 miles and put in a heavy duty Zoom Kevlar which came as a complete kit with new slave, throw out, clutch disk and pressure plate. I think I paid about $320.00 for the HP2117-1 Clutch set and another $160 to have it installed at a shop that a friend of mine owns. Nothing wrong with the stock disk but the fingers on the pressure plate went bad and wouldnt clamp down so it was scorching the pressure plate.
Its probably aluminium, but the throwout bearing doesn't slide on the retainer like it does with the T5. It is attached to and slides along the clutch slave cylinder.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CrazySpyder69
Im having difficulty finding throwout bearings online. I found some but it wont let me select the year, it only goes up to 1997. Is it all the same?
You might try looking for a clutch release bearing. On the pilot bearing, that is sometimes called input shaft bearing.

High mileage on a clutch is in some ways a relative term. What matters more is how much it's used as well as who uses it. It's gonna wear faster in city driving that freeway. It's gonna wear faster if the driver has habits such that they slip it too much (some people actually think a clutch should be used to hold a vehicle at a stoplight on hills). I replaced the clutch on my former/old 94 because I experienced the delight (not) of the $8 pilot bearing going out. At about 165K miles and a fair amount of non city driving, that clutch still had plenty of life left, had I opted to not replace. If you're not the original owner (I was) then the plot deepens since you won't know how others drove it, but you can always wait until you have it apart and then inspect to see if you need to replace parts.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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I've seen many interesting hypotesas, but it seems to me disk is not good, may be pressure plate goes out too. I can add some hypotesas more, but first, remove the tanny, and look at the clutch, you can easyly inspect slave cyl., bearing, pressure plate and disk... May be you will see leakagges. Inspect bearing inside the crankshaft (ore flightwheell too), inspect flightwheel surface!

It is not very difficult! It is not auto!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Pablo-UA
I've seen many interesting hypotesas, but it seems to me disk is not good, may be pressure plate goes out too. I can add some hypotesas more, but first, remove the tanny, and look at the clutch, you can easyly inspect slave cyl., bearing, pressure plate and disk... May be you will see leakagges. Inspect bearing inside the crankshaft (ore flightwheell too), inspect flightwheel surface!

It is not very difficult! It is not auto!
Wow, this little squeak is becomming a major problem. It may not be difficult for you but I really dont have the tools, time or know how to rebuild my whole tranny. Hell I dont even have a jack to jack my damn truck up. I really dont want to take it into a shop and have to pay them my whole paycheck for something that I COULD do if I had the know how and a jack.

So that being said, anyone in tx up for a tranny rebuild? Ill cook, I got steak!!! And beer............
 
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