Whats everyone with 2v's running intake wise? I've also seen people motify their stock ones....is this effective?

 

I think the general concensus around here is to leave it stock. After reading numerous threads about this issue, w/ insight from many who have tried different options, most will tell you to leave it alone and just run a quality paper filter. It's really not very restrictive,(at least on my 04), if you look at it. And the MAF's don't seem to like the oil filled cotton gauze air filters. A quality paper filter flows just as well. I bought my 04 used and it came w/ a drop in K&N unbeknownst to me. I recently serviced the truck and changed it out for a WIX paper filter. I cleaned the K&N up this weekend, lightly reoiled it and I'm going to do my own "independant study". But I think you'll find most will tell you to leave it alone. But you know, everyone has an opinion....

 

My 2001 V10 with stock paper filter dirtied the MAF enough by 22K miles that it needed to be cleaned. And woke up and shifted right again...

Diesel soot from the highway. The more they clean up the particulate emissions from diesels, the smaller the soot particles get. They seem to go right through the filter.

There go us V10ers again, cleaning up the environment

Anyway, there is a Zoodad mod that involves cutting out the restrictive nose in the stock air box and making a hole right in front of it so it gets fresh outside air, and possibly elongating the nose of the air box.

Anyone who finds the original post about the Zoodad, please post it here so I can include it in the FAQ - I overlooked that one.

thanks!

 

GO COLD AIR!! you will not be disapointed for alittle time out in the garage!

FIRST: get the K&N filter for your truck (don't have the p/n handy)
SECOND: get you a sharp box cutter and alittle sand paper. i taped off where i wanted to cut w/ masking tape, cut a groove along the edge of the masking tape w/ the box cutter, and then sanded down the edges alittle, WHAM-cold air (i'm working on a custom box/heat shield now)
THIRD: re-install filter and your good-to-go!
this isn't very detailed but that is about all there is to it! hope i posted it right!


the "zoo-dad" mod is located on the right side of the grill (if your staning in front of the truck) behind the small section of the grill. there is a molded plastic piece that you can cut the center out for better air flow. BUT if you hit the mud at all, you'll want to make a cover for that perticular mod!

Jason
Team Mudd Pres.
www.team-mudd-racing.com

 

TeamMudd, Your not getting cold air. You haven't sealed off the filter from the Hot engine. You made it worse.

 

Agree with Jackflack that is worse. A full cold air kit is like a Volant #19068. That is the route I would go.

 

I just got a AEM brute force, actually it was a nice system to set up. Uses a dry filter not a oiled K&N. I work at a Nissan dealer (I know... but i'm driving a Ford ain't I!) and have seen oiled filters foul LOTS of MAF. So i was pretty picky when it came to choosing a cold air intake. I'm not gonna sit here and say the it made a huge differance, because it didn't. I notice it mostly out on the freeway going up some longer hills where the truck would usually kick out of overdrive into 3rd, it just keeps on truckin along in Overdrive now. You can sure hear the intake when you put your foot into it though!

 

Hi, how do I clean the MAF?

 

Ummm - not that I want to start anything but TeamMudd, you do not have a cold air intake there. In fact you have REMOVED the FACTORY COLD AIR intake.

Warm engine room air is less dense than cooler outside air, and hence will produce less power - so you have actually reduced your engine power by adding that hot air aftermarket intake setup. This would be mesuarable on a dyno to confirm.

However you have made the enigine more noisy with that unbaffled air intake, so is that tricking you into thinking that you have more power because of the increased noise?

Not that I want to pick on you, just food for thought.

David

 

I am not sure this is the "official" answer but I would spray it with brakleen. It is just past your air filter on the engine side. Looks like a couple of electrodes stuck in there.

How does the LP conversion work? What brand is it and did you install it? Tell us more.
Thanks
Kelly

 

i cleaned my maf with eletrical parts cleaner, and i am not totally sure but i think my mileage with my heavy footed wife dropped 1 to 2 mpg. from around hight 9's to the low 8's. for two tanks. it seems to be creeping up to the previous levels but im stll not sure. i also cleared the computer as instructed . i noticed the mileage drop very quickly. i did notice that the truck ran ans sounded smoother though..like it was supposed to do after the procedure. just the mileage dropped.

 

guys
i have seen this thread and just have to put my foot in it, as a few of the new guys think they know a lot when they don't. and i sure i don't want to start some thing but when it comes to a v10 .stock is best and i've run the dyno numbers to prove it.

cold air kits have proven NO GAIN at all over the stock filter. i done it tryed 4 types on the rollers. NO GAIN AT ALL . only more noise, one claimed 13 and 13 NOTHING on the rollers at all, same for the other 3 brands. the rollers are proof ,my personal proof .on my personal truck.

just so you guys can know. i spent 8 k on mine now. all i still have on is my tuner a excal 2 custom tuned unit. and my 4:56 gears. every thing else went back as worth less or put out to the shop junk pile

MY gas mileage in every case i dropped with all 4 kit brands and got it back with the stock filter, oiled filters tended to foul my mass air senser. dry filters did not and do not, oil wise it does not take much to cause a problem which mostly starts after the oiled type filter is cleaned of the factory oil amount. and over sprayed. when cleaned. it does not take much to start the m.a.s. to start fouling from dirt in the air.

leave the motor alone guys . do not waste your money unless you just want to show off saying i have it or this.

another brass tack's is ford has this motor almost at max power dead stock. yah you can do this and that, but is it all worth the max we proved it capible off 35 hp at the rear end on a good calibrated dyno. 268.8 rwhp stock. in a 05 4x4 and just under 305 with headers, and a very good custom tune applyed to the pcm. and 4:56 gears, i t took 12 pulls to get down the tune.

heres a lay down
268.8 dead stock
273.1 with headers all above 3k where it's not needed to tow.
268.1 with free flowing exhaust kit from borlla, flow master and mbrp

with a cold air kit nothing till over 3500rpm then a extra amount to 275.7.and 0 ft pounds.when returned to stock it came back up almost 1 hp with the headers on. or off.

custom tuned sct excal 2 and as i said 12 pulls and 8 hours of tuneing time 304.7 total

don't waste your cash guys all it is ,is bling bling on the motor
the v10 works great stock. best mpg's come from dead stock, take fred von 4's word guys he's 100% correct about this motor and my haveing a shop with a dyno helps out in proveing him correct.
SORRY GUYS but it isn't worth it screwing with a v10. if you really want more power it comes from 2 ways only. one is a super charger and the other NOX and then the motor haveing cast pistons can not handle it "nox" for long.

team mud! sorry to step on your toes here man. but this motor is ment for what it can do tow and move this truck and that it does very well. if any one wants a motor to screw with it's the 5.4 out of a linclon navagater or a 150 with a super chaged 3 valve v8, even the bad word down here diesel. they are worth playing with not the v10.

ever take a real good look at whats out to tune a v10? if it was better .more would be out already. even the tuneing companies know it's not worth it.

SORRY GUYS i have to speak out. as i did waste 8.000 dollars on nothing . i will not sell worthless items out of my shop. for any brand ride, made in the USA or far east.

 

What Captain Charlie is trying to say is that the Ford Engineers did their job right on this motor

Compare a 2005 / 07 SuperDuty to the typical F250 or 350 of the 80s and 90s and you will see that Ford made the truck MUCH bigger and almost 2500 pounds heavier. My 4x4 4 door long bed King Ranch is 7881 pounds wet with me in her. My '77 4x4 F350 reg cab long bed was only 5735 pounds wet

The Normally Aspirated (NA) 460 Cubic Inch Big Block (BB) V8 used to be the optimum gasoline motor for these trucks. But there were several problems with the old skool push rod Big Block V8.... Internal parasitic drag, emissions regulations, detonation or pre ignition requiring higher octane fuel, a power band that did not build any significant torque until above 2700 rpm, intake and exhaust inefficiencies based on motor bay configuration and again tail pipe emission restrictions. Rotating mass was slower to spin up (common for all BB NA push rod motors of the day)

All mass produced motors of that era had many typical "flaws" that could be "fixed" with a professional "blue-Printing" and better then factory parts from Crane, Crowler, Edelbrock, Holly, Carter, Accel, and others. And a good upgrade included attention to rotating internals as well as the the Front Engine Accessory Drive (FEAD) and the rotating mass of the flywheel and transmission.

However, even with all that work, the BB 460 would only yield about a 22%-38% gain over stock. And almost always at the expense of fewer MPG under normal towing and hauling usage of a truck. It also cost a wheel barrow full of $$$!

Old farts like Charlie and I chased recovering lost HP and torque most of our adult lives and many months of our teenage years also. Hints and tricks were passed from motor head to motor head long before the internet existed. We learned great gobs of info from magazines and in several cases the magazines would publish "recipes" with exact parts lists and "Mods" that would yield best possible results with not too much "experimenting", tuning, readjusting, testing, readjusting and tweaking some more.

The V10 was developed in the mid 80s as the replacement for the very heavy F53 chassis Class "A" motor coach division when it became obvious that the 6.9, 7.3 liter diesel motors were much too heavy for that application. Ford engineers already knew that the 460 V8 could never be adapted to live in the less emissions, AND less noise, AND higher MPG world the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and Corporate Average Fuel Efficiency (CAFE) standards committees were moving us all toward.

The Ford engineers succeeded in designing a V10 that was lighter then the 460 V8, produced more usable power, made that power lower in the RPM band (an emissions impacter), got much better MPG averages, and could cross use parts from other motors in the same "modular" family reducing inventory and procurement costs.

The V10 is definitely a fun and powerful motor. A true BSEG machine stock from the factory! This is a monumental engineering feat and if you consider the smallish 415 cubic inches, over head cams, counter balance shaft, and dynamically controlled intake plenum volume along with the totally computer controlled power train (with a smart transmission)....

Well, there were a few of us old skool numskulls out here that thought there MUST be a boat load of hidden HP and torque in her. Hell, all the rest of Ford, Chevy, and Dodge motors we ever owned had at least another 75HP to let loose.

Fred, Charlie and many others have been trying for 5 or 6 years to find them... Some of us have access to chassis dyno time and get to play with most of the bolt on crap that is out there. We are the guys that are old enough to personally know several of the major aftermarket motor heads and designers. We know why there are no stroker kits, full flow heads, quad plane intake manifolds, significant headers, high lift long duration cams, specialty rods and pistons, larger bore throttle bodies, or higher tech ignition systems... it is simply because even though there are over 3 million V10s on the road...not enough folks will pay the costs of a part if the pay back in power is real low.

Of course that is only one of the reasons for no development of hight tech aftermarket goodies... the other problem(s) are balance...literaly... the counter rotating balance shaft screws up any chance for high performance internals unless the designer keeps the weights exact to the factory design. Almost all crank shafts, rods, and pistons in a "blue print" hop up modification gain the HP and torque by being LIGHTER and STRONGER.

An other "Balance" problem is really the biggest reason there are no aftermarket parts. In the old days you could stick on a manifold this month and wait for the next month's pay check to get the carburetor or distributer. On a computer controlled V10 it is "all or nothing" in the mods department. Ad a full rebuild creating a high HP torque monster will require a cash outlay of $3 to $5 thousand dollars before any labor is started.... the typical motor head does not have this level of disposable income to "experiment" with.

The best mod you can do to a Ford V10 is to get a 3v Version and leave it stock

Play with getting the POWER to the ground by tires and gears and weight reduction is the best bang for the buck.... 51 years old and this is the first factory motor I can say this about...best $510 I ever spent on a "mod" was option code 99Y

 

Fred, while "The best mod you can do to a Ford V10 is to get a 3v Version and leave it stock" maybe true, it isn't a viable option for some including me. It does seem Ford has worked out the bugs from the earlier models such as the y-pipe and a different intake. I say if us old 2v guys want to modify, go for it. Flame away..............

 

The banks power pack for the V-10 seems pretty good though, + 51 hp at the rear tires in a non-PI, which is what my 99 is. I have all the whole kit except for the ottomind chip. I am looking to buy the chip, but first I want to talk with SCT and see what they think of the ottomind chip. According to the numbers banks claims the 99 V-10 can make more torque than the 2005+.