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Well Dam!!!
I went got a starter from salvage yard and out it on and still buzzed. Put old starter back on and still no start.
Battery now?
ZZ
Did you read what I posted above?
"Try taking a socket with a hinge wrench (breaker bar) and try and turn the engine at the crank, if it is locked up and the starter can not turn it, it will act like you described."
Well Dam!!!
I went got a starter from salvage yard and out it on and still buzzed. Put old starter back on and still no start.
Battery now?
ZZ
Start over with your jumper cable testing. If it will not crank by jumping straight from #1 to #6, put the other cable from #2 to #4 and try it again. I am starting to suspect the battery, or possibly there is a drain on the battery, and by the time you get to do a test, the battery is too low to do anything.
I did try #2 to #4 but it still didn't start. I put old starter back on and now have battery charger on for all night. If it doesn't start in the morning I will go get a new battery.
thanks
ZZ
Still no start but my battery was hot enough to start 2 trucks.
I jumped between #1 and #6 again and got big arc but not turn over from starter. I'm going to check the wire from #6 to #7 and see if it is rubbing something somewhere.
One question though. Someone has a ground strap from the frame to the lower starter mounting bolt. Is that suppose to be there?
ZZ
I would check that wire from #6 to #7 for a short to ground.
There is not normally a wire there but it would make a good frame ground if you need a good ground at the rear for a trailer ground.
If you leave the wire on make sure the bolt is long enough so it does not strip out when you tighten the starter bolts.
Thanks subford.
I have the wire #6 to #7 off and checked it . It looks new. not a scuff mark on it and it was in a loom.I did take it off and bench test the starter I got from salvage yard yesterday. Took #6 to #7 cable ran to positive terminal of battery and then used jumper cable from negative to starter housing. It arced but still did not kick in starter on bench.
Wow this is a headache.
ZZ
I did take it off and bench test the starter I got from salvage yard yesterday. Took #6 to #7 cable ran to positive terminal of battery and then used jumper cable from negative to starter housing. It arced but still did not kick in starter on bench.
That would be a bad starter.
The salvage yard should have used a battery and cables to check it before they sold it to you.
I put the housing of the starter directly on the negative post and the wire#6 to #7 to positive post and starter kicks in and runs good. Both starters do.
must not be grounding good >?
where does the ground cable from battery suppose to hook to engine? mine is on the alt Bracket and it is aluminum.
ZZ
where does the ground cable from battery suppose to hook to engine? mine is on the alt Bracket and it is aluminum.
ZZ
I do not know what engine you have but if it is a 302/351 it should be low on the side of the engine just above the pan on the battery side forward of the engine mount.
Well I put new battery cables on Positive and Negitave. I put original starter back on and cranked at the key. It turned over but was like battery was still low. I charger for an hour and tried again and it started.
It is hard to believe that a negitave ground cable could cause this much headache. But I believe it sure did.
Thanks alot to all that helped me.
ZZ
There supposed to be a ground cable from the Battery Neg (-) Post to one of the Starter Motor Mounting Bolts. There is also a smaller wire running from the same Battery Neg (-) Post to a Body Ground.
Yes I agree about the aluminum corroding easily. I had cleaned ALL the cable ends and where they are bolted to. Last night it rained and (had hood down) the aluminum had corroded in the cleaned spot. I will get a longer Negative cable and BOLT it to the BLOCK somewhere.
Plus I did not hook up that ground strap someone had made from frame rail to the strater mounting bolt.
Again many Thanks Guys.
Back to doing rocker panel repair's
ZZ