Hey all,

I have a '98 Explorer AWD with just under 90k on the clock. The front ball joints are shot. Is this something a novice can repair or should I have a shop do it?

Would it be advisable to replace the front shocks as well? Will I need an alignment if these repairs are made?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Regards,
Eric

 

If you like working on your ride, go ahead and change the B-joints and the shocks, then take it in for a good alignment..

 

BlueOval5.0

Here's the deal on BJs.

are uppers and lowers both shot? If uppers only, then there's good news and bad news. Good news is (unless they've been changed before), you have to replace the whole control arm assembly since the upper BJs can't be replaced in the factory arms. So, the process is a bit easier. I say a bit, since the driver's side will be a real bear because the super intelligent designers routed all the brake lines right in the way of the rear bolt attaching the control arm to the frame. Have confidence, it will come apart, but you'll swear it won't. Takes a lot of twisting and turning. Will definitely need an alignment after this job.

If lowers are shot too, then it's more fun and time. While some folks say they have pressed out the lower BJs with the lower control arm on the vehicle with a loaner C-press from your local parts store, I have never been so lucky. I've always had to remove the lower control arms, and press the BJs out with a shop press. So, if your experience is like mine, then you'll have to remove the lower control arms, which involves removing the torsion bars, the stabilizer bar end links, and the lower shock bolts. Be very careful with the torsion bar removal process, since there's lots of pressure in play here. I would highly recommend getting a Haynes manual for your truck that does a pretty good job of walking you through the process.

Now, getting the brake caliper assembly and the knuckles out of your way to get to the control arms is the other part of the fun. Before you lift the front-end, you'll need to break the axle nuts loose---takes a pretty large socket (like a 32mm or something) and probably a cheater bar to get it moving, unless you have access to airtools. Then, you'll need to remove the castle nuts for the tie-rod, the upper BJ, and the lower BJ (leave the lower on until you get the upper BJ loose from the knuckle---otherwise you may drop a heavy knuckle on your foot. Usually, a few sharp whacks with a 5 lb hammer on the knuckle right where the BJ stud goes through will separate the BJ from the knuckle---don't be shy about hitting it. Some folks use a pickle fork to separate, but pickle forks will often tear up the grease boots, which you don't care about except the one on the tie rod (unless you're changing tie rod ends too). After separating the lower BJ from the knuckle, you'll have to push the axle stub in through the knuckle, and tie it up with some wire. Hyper extending the CV joints on the axle assembly will ruin them.

As stated, you have to press the lower BJs out of the control arm, whether on or off the vehicle using suitable press. Then, you have to press the new BJs back in. Take some time to make sure you have the new ones lined up and pressing in straight. By this time, you'll be hot, sweaty, dirty, greasy, tired, and frustrated. But, you'll know a lot about your truck, just have to bolt everything back together, and will have saved a lot of money.

Count on this job taking the better part of your day, if you've never done it before. Parts will cost you about $200-250, depending on quality. Personally, I like Moog, but just be sure to replace with greaseable joints, zerk fittings in place. Most shops around me will charge you at least $500-600 labor for this job.

One last thought, there's a pretty good write up of a BJ job in the stickies at the front of the late model F-150 forum. Not exactly the same for your Explorer, but pretty close and will give you some orientation.

 

GibsonJ,

Thanks for the comprehensive write-up.

The Ford tech told me the lower ball joints were shot. What baffles me is that I would expect the uppers to go first.

Anyway, Ford wanted $575 +$99 for front end alignment. A local Pep Boys wanted $470 - alignment included. I brought it there this morning and it is being worked on as we speak. I simply can't take on this task with my limited mechanical aptitude and little time as it is.

I'm also throwing front shocks on while it is there (yes, I should do this myself as I did the rear shocks myself recently) - Monroe Sensitracs.

Spent over $1,100 on maintenance and repairs in two weeks but other than tires and oil changes, haven't spent a dime on it in two years and nearly 40k. These things happen.

I am still considering trading it in for a Focus b/c gas is $3.359 a gallon and going north every day.

Thanks,
Eric