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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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recurve

I want to recurve my dist. Where can I get a kit, and how much are they? Did a search and found a good article on how, but nothing on were to get a kit or a part no. Got a 400 with no egr, on a 78 F250. Use it for pulling a camper and general truck use. Not a daily driver. What weights do you guys suggest? 10L and 13L? different springs? Any tips and a good baseline would be appreciated. Thanx.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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It is not as easy as just replacing parts. Find someone with a distributor machine and have them re-curve the distributor.

See post #6 in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=506678
 
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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From: Houston/Hope BC
http://yarchive.net/car/advance_curve.html
Will give you a nice grasp on what a PIA it is do this right.
AutoZone can order the spring kit from Mr. Gasket, dig around their site to find it.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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If you just drop a kit in it will not be right. Adjustments are required which means a distributor machine or a ton of futzing around with the distributor in the engine...
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 09:15 AM
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What is the current dist doing wrong ?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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took the egr sysem off. Where would be a good place to get one recurved. Do auto parts stores do that or do you have to find a race shop? Doesn't it need to be recurved to the specific vehicle for optimum performance?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Ahhh, the old EGR ping problem. There are many threads on this subject here. The vacuum advance unit needs calibration. You will need to find a speed shop or garage with the proper equipment. Parts stores do not have that kind of equipment but there may be an exception in some mom and pop place. It is better to make the EGR system work properly.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 08:54 PM
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is it only vacuum advance, or mechanical also?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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I was wondering about this too. Is the EGR ping a symptom of only the vacuum advance or is it both vacuum & mechanical?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Usually vacuum advance but both need to be checked.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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what do I tell the shop when going in to get it done? I need X deg. in by XXXX rpm? My towing/hauling truck needs aprox. what for X?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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As posted many times before:


1971 distributor & engine specifications for the 400:
================================================== ==
This was the GOOD year for the 400 engine before it was smogged to death.
-------------------------------
Distributor part #D00F-U
Centrifugal Advance Start: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM Finish: 14° @ 2275RPM
Vacuum Advance Start: 0-1° @ 5" Finish: 12.5° @ 25"
Point Dwell: 26-31°
Initial Timing: 10° BTDC, 6°BTDC California.
Vacuum given in inches of Mercury (Hg).
RPM specified as distributor RPM.
Degrees specified as distributor degrees.
---------------------------------
Double those values for crankshaft figures:
Example: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM distributor becomes 0-1° @ 700RPM on the engine.
--------------------------------
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 01:00 AM
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it's possible that the available fuel in 2006 may not support the same advance curve as the available fuel from 1971? the pumps used to say "GASOLINE" and "CONTAINS LEAD" on them but now they say "blended motor fuel" and "unleaded", which is formulated to atomize at almost 50psi BTW. all i'm saying is that to set up a dizzy to the specific 1971 specs may not be a rock solid sure thing? more than just the advance curve has changed in the last 35 years.


that 1971 dizzy is cranking in 28* for a total of 38* at 4550rpm, that sounds ok but the vacuum might be a bit much. 30* or more at/off idle? sounds like a lot to me?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 01:23 AM
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It is a starting point for any tune and should be close. It is also a good starting spec for a non-EGR application. Remember the 335 series engines like their advance early.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Sorry Torque, I saw the chart at least 3 times and never put one and one to make three.
 
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