on the 73-79 truck forum there is a FAQ of tips and tricks for the year trucks. I think that this would be good here for these motors. Say for instance, tips on how to keep oil pan seals in place when installing, or timing chain and cover replacement. even all the ways to tell a 351 from a 400 because I have seen numerous post all about the one thing. everyone can read the installation instructions, but a little tip or certain trick to make it a little easier would help alot. I have learned alot of things on the one in the 73-79 truck forum and was wondering if we could start one in here (attn to mods).

Edit-
Please note: A FAQ or tips and tricks thread should not contain chit-chat or questions. Please post questions and conversation elsewhere. Your cooperation will be appreciated.

See the following links also:
73-9 Forum Tips and Tricks
73-9 Forum FAQ Thread

 

Engine Identification (rev):
======================
351C/M/400 335 series: 8 bolts in rectangular valve covers. Timing chain housing is part of block. Thermostat housing on block. Exhaust bolt holes diagonal.
351M/400 335 series: intake is 12.7" wide the 351C is narrow.
351W/302/5.0L 6 bolts on trapezoidal valve covers. Thermostat housing on intake. Exhaust bolt holes horizontal.
429/460 385 series: 7 bolts in rectangular valve cover
352/360/390/427/428 FE series: Intake goes under valve covers.
-There are other indicators but these are enough to distinguish engine families.

 

Books:
====================
Performance with Economy by David Vizard
Desktop Dynos from the publishers of the DYNO-2000 program
Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl
Power Secrets by Smokey Yunick
Performance Modifying Ford Trucks by Rich Johnson
Off Highway Operation Parts, and Off Highway Newsletter
Then there are various SAE design handbooks available at your local technical libraries.

 

High Perf Opt 351M/400:
========================
High Performance Options for the 351M/400 Engine by Dave Resch

His site:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/

 

http://www.users.bigpond.com/ergoff/vac1.htm

 

Casting cod<! >es and lots of other data available here:
=================================
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine.html


1971 dist<!>ributor & en<!>gine specifications for the 400:
=================================
This was the GOOD year for the 400 eng<! >ine before it was smogged to death.
-------------------------------
Dist<!>ributor part #D00F-U
Centrifugal Advance Start: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM Finish: 14° @ 2275RPM
Vacuum Advance Start: 0-1° @ 5" Finish: 12.5° @ 25"
Point Dwell: 26-31°
Initial Timing: 10° BTDC, 6°BTDC California.
Vacuum given in inches of Mercury (Hg).
RPM specified as distr<!>ibutor RPM.
Degrees specified as distr<!>ibutor degrees.
---------------------------------
Double those values for cran<!>kshaft figures:
Example: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM dist<!>ributor becomes 0-1° @ 700RPM on the en<!>gine.
--------------------------------


En<!>gine specs for the 1971 400:
====================
260HP @ 4400 RPM, 400 LB-FT @ 2200 RPM (Brake/flyw<!>heel figures)
Compression: 9.0:1
Cam timing set straight up.
Carb: 2V
En<!>gine code: S
Cam # D1AZ-6250-A
Lifters: HYD
Adv Duration: I/E/overlap 256/272/36
Int<!>ake Events:Open/Close
Advertised:17BT/59AB
At 0.050":30AT/8AB
Exh<!>aust Events:Open/Close
Advertised:71BB/21AT
At 0.050":37BB/37BT
Available in: Custom & C-500, LTD, Galaxie 500, Monterey
----------------------------------------------------------

 

Coolant flow in the 335 series; 351C/M/400:
---------------------------------------------
The 335 series routes coolant water in a unique fashion; directly from the head to the block without passing thru the intake manifold so the manifold is "dry". Coolant flows from the head to the block, and then into a chamber below the thermostat. When the thermostat is closed water flows downward thru the water bypass orifice (part number D0AZ-8K517-A on a Cleveland) and into the water pump for recirculation. When the engine warms sufficiently the thermostat opens and most of the coolant flows through the thermostat and then to the radiator for cooling with a small portion still flowing thru the bypass orifice. If the wrong thermostat is used the orifice will not be closed off properly, or if the orifice is removed on a 351C, a major portion of the coolant will flow directly back to the water pump rather than through the radiator which will cause overheating and hot spots.

Use a Robertshaw thermostat #333-192 available from:
http://www.flowkooler.com


Speaking of flow, DO NOT GASKET MATCH!
-----------------------------------------------------------
Check out this post:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...3&postcount=82

 

The Hayden catalog I have gives some specific things to look for in relation to replacing the clutch unit and some descriptions.

Fan clutch replacement may be required when any of the following conditions exist: -Engine overheating -DUH -Silicone leaking from the clutch unit -Fan spins with little or no resistance (free wheels) -Greasy build up at thermal spring on front or where shaft exits the rear of housing (seals) -Fan clutch vibrates on shaft or will not turn -Squealing noises from the bearing

The website did have this in the FAQ section: Most fan clutches engage at about 170° F air temperature (about 180-190° F engine temperature). They reduce the temperature about 20° F before disengaging. In other words the temp has to drop to about 150° F before they disengage. This is called hysteresis.

The catalog also offers the following descriptions:

Thermal fan clutches have a built-in thermostatic coil spring that detects the temperature of the air passing through the radiator and air conditioning condenser. The fan clutch engages and provides air flow only when cooling is needed. When disengaged the fan clutch powers down reducing the horsepower drain and increasing fuel economy. When engaged, the standard duty fan clutch spins at approximately 75% of the watter pump speed. The heavy duty and severe duty clutches provide additional air flow, spinning at approximately 90% of the water pump speed. All thermal fan clutches disengage and spin at about 33% of the water pump's speed when cooling is not required.

Non thermal fan clutches are constantly engaged and have a limited maximum spin rate.

Heavy duty and severe duty fan clutches are designed specifically for trucks, motorhomes, towing vehicles, and high performance engines.

You can find expanded descriptions, more information, and a fan clutch tutorial at the Hayden website: http://www.haydenauto.com/index.htm

 

Heater hose outlet fitting:
===========================
More part data:

CarQuest Catalog:
CTS 278960 is the 5/8 x 3/4 x 1 3/4 in.(shorter than original but functional)
CTS 278963 is the 5/8 x 3/4 x 2 1/2 in. (more like original)
Several posts through links in this thread show CTS 278962 and RBR 28611
(plastic) as usable / good part from CarQuest. Do not get CTC 278961.

White Bros Catalog (mfg. Four Seasons): 84557

Napa: Do not get Napa 660-1578 (Four Seasons cross-ref. no. 84715). This part
does not fit. Catalog states it is 3/4 it actually measures 5/8 and this was
verified 2 small at both White and Napa, same part (not a box mixup.) . Since
Napa cited the Four Seasons no. alongside their no. you may try the 84557 for a
cross-reference to Napa.

-From user crawlfish
thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=378794

 

Excessive Distributor Gear Wear on Ford:
========================================
Excessive distributor gear wear can be a problem with Ford engines. Should you use a high volume oil pump, the following precautions will save your distributor gear from early destruction. This info can also be used to extend the life of the gears with a normal pump.

(1) Drill a .030" hole in the lifter/oil galley plug behind the distributor. This will allow additional lubrication on the distributor and cam gears. This will not lower oil pressure enough to hurt the engine.

(2) Ford oil pump mounting brackets have elongated holes. Due to this, the distributor shaft and oil pump shaft should be aligned so that the distributor turns freely before tightening the mounting bracket bolts. Failure to do this will cause a binding situation, thus damaging the gear.

(3) Stock Ford hex oil pump drive shafts are know to vary in length which could cause a bottoming or binding situation.

(4) Brass distributor gears can be used to avoid damaging the cam gear. Brass gears are softer and can wear out quicker than the cast gear, but will not cause damage to the cam gear. If using a brass gear, check it occasionally for wear.


More info from my files (excuse the caps):
==============
CAST IRON DISTRIBUTOR GEARS ARE USED WITH CAST IRON CAMS AND ARE EITHER:
ORANGE 1.249 OD/ 0.467 ID FOR 289/302 W/ POINTS OR DURASPARK, M12390A
BLUE 1.249/0.531 FOR 302 W/ EFI OR 351W, M12390D
GREEN 1.421/0.531 FOR 351C/M,400,429,460, M12390G

STEEL DISTRIBUTOR GEARS ARE USED WITH STEEL CAMS ONLY AND ARE EITHER:
PLAIN 1.249/0.467 FOR 302 W/ STEEL BILLET OR PRODUCTION ROLLER CAM, M12390B
YELLOW 1.249/0.467 FOR 302/351W W/ HYD ROLLER CAM AND EFI, M12390F

BRONZE DIST GEARS CAN BE USED FOR CAST OR STEEL CAMS AND ARE EITHER:
BRONZE 1.249/0.467 FOR 289/302 W/ POINT OR DURASPARK, M12390C
BRONZE W/BLUE STRIPE 1.249/0.531 302 W/ EFI OR 351W, M12390E
BRONZE W/GREEN STRIPE 1.421/0.531 FOR 351C/M,400,429,460, M12390H

 

When you drop the oil pan still in the truck, 4wd in my case not sure about 2wd, install carb studs in the 4 bolt holes, 2 front & 2 rear, will help line up the gasket. Also a good coat of rtv will hold the gasket in place long enough to get the pan back in at any pace.

James

 

Distr<! >ibutor stuck? Turn engine over backwards, most times will pop out. May want to spray with PBBlaster.

 

Pick your own poison, rope or compressed air to hold valve up.
After pulling rocker assemblies, re-install into rocker bolt hole a bolt with one of the stock half-moon rocker fulcrum pieces.
Get your tie rod end splitter: this is your lever to compress the valve spring.
Slide it under the fulcrum, flat side up, tips landing on spring retainer.... note where the rocker fulcrum lands. Take splitter to bench grinder and add detents, the angle gets extreme and these keep the tool in place. Go to town changing springs.

 

Easy fix for low oil pressure probs with the 351C/M/400.

http://www.asajay.com/351rebuil<WBR>d/oil2.htm

Stan

 

The 351M and 400 are externally the same.

It is difficult and often inaccurate to measure the stroke thru the spark plug holes with a wire or thin dowel. However the thread linked below has pictures of the crankshafts and casting code information:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...rankshaft.html

Valve cover or emissions stickers if present specify the engine family as: 351M/400 and have the engine displacement listed afterward. The following picture is from user Mil1ion and is from a 1978 351M: