Boost Gauge needle flutter
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Junior User
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From: Hunterdon County, NJ
Boost Gauge needle flutter
Installed my A-Pillar Autometer gauges a month or so back ... tapped into the MAP sensor line for the boost gauge.
I get lots of needle flutter the higher the boost reading .. so much so that at a boost reading of 20 (avg) it is shaking wildly from 15-25 ... this can't be good for the life of the meter, never mind the annoyance of the flutter.
I was told by one source that the flutter is due to the small diameter of the MAP sensor hose from where I tapped and I may want to consider tapping into the throttle body?... I expected to see other posts on this topic but was unsuccessful in my search.
Do I have a bad gauge or installation, or it this a symptom of the tap location (i.e., the MAP sensor line)? Suggestions?
I get lots of needle flutter the higher the boost reading .. so much so that at a boost reading of 20 (avg) it is shaking wildly from 15-25 ... this can't be good for the life of the meter, never mind the annoyance of the flutter.
I was told by one source that the flutter is due to the small diameter of the MAP sensor hose from where I tapped and I may want to consider tapping into the throttle body?... I expected to see other posts on this topic but was unsuccessful in my search.
Do I have a bad gauge or installation, or it this a symptom of the tap location (i.e., the MAP sensor line)? Suggestions?
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
Usually the flutter can be taken out by reducing the orifice size of the adapter fitting at the throttle body or if a needle valve can be installed, pinching down on the valve until the flutter stops, this is called dampening. We have to do this type of thing on the oil rigs to reduce the pulsations of pumps and compressors on pressure gauges.
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From: s.f. bay area
I encountered the needle flutter with a Banks Dynafact gauge tapped into the MAP sensor also. Solved it with a trip the the hardware store. In the plumbing isle there was small copper adjustable valves with a little "T" handle on top. They were for 1/8" compression fittings. The 1/8" plastic line that I used to connect the gauge to the MAP worked fine in the compression fittings. I kept tightening the valve setting until the flutter was gone. Over tightening the valve slows down the response of the gauge too much (if it doesn't rise up and down as quick as it used to, then the valve is closed too much).
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From: Hunterdon County, NJ
Raptor .. I'm driving an 04 Excursion Limited 4x4 and am not aware of a option for a stock boost gauge .. My Boost Gauge is an Autometer Sport Comp ...
N6NFG ... thanks for that tip .. just so I am clear, you put a "T" in the MAP line and off of that "T" you feed your Boost Gauge? Did you put the valve on the Gauge side of the T or the MAP line side? BTW, I'm also known as WA2MKM ...
N6NFG ... thanks for that tip .. just so I am clear, you put a "T" in the MAP line and off of that "T" you feed your Boost Gauge? Did you put the valve on the Gauge side of the T or the MAP line side? BTW, I'm also known as WA2MKM ...
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Junior User
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From: Hunterdon County, NJ
Spycather, I presume your not having flutter issues with your Autometer Boost Gauge? You have standard install off of MAP sensor line?
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From: s.f. bay area
Yes, this is correct. One single "T" at the MAP sensor, which feeds across the engine compartment to the drivers side, where I mounted the valve, which then feeds through the firewall to the gauge in the passenger compartment. One of my mechanics commented when he saw the valve, was wondering if it fixed a needle flutter problem... Sounds like the mechanics know if this one too!
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From: s.f. bay area
Originally Posted by post-man
N6NFG ... thanks for that tip .. BTW, I'm also known as WA2MKM ...
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From: Hunterdon County, NJ
FTE comes through again ... thanks to N6NFG ... I put the 1/8" brass valve (indeed available at the local hardware store - plumbing aisle - .. I was surprised) directly on to the gauge side of the T coming off the map sensor line ...
Ended up having to crank the valve almost all the way closed and then cracking it a 1/8 to 1/4 turn open (3-4 test runs later) and the needle shake is almost undetectable .. darn that was annoying the heck out of me ... Thanks again NFG ..
Ended up having to crank the valve almost all the way closed and then cracking it a 1/8 to 1/4 turn open (3-4 test runs later) and the needle shake is almost undetectable .. darn that was annoying the heck out of me ... Thanks again NFG ..
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From: Hunterdon County, NJ
4x4 ... Thanks ... that was the other suggestion to clear up the flutter ... tap into the Throttle body intake ... MAP line install already done and needle flutter solved with the damping valve... any other reason to consider the intake elbow as the sample point?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by 4x4Mark
The best solution is to abondon the MAP line and tap directly into the elbow going into the intake. Solved mine (Dipricol) and all others I've heard of. No flutter at all now.
Mark
Mark
this is where i placed my boost tap in the intake elbow. i then covered th plastic tube with wire loom
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