The power locks will not lock from the drivers side. It will unlock on the drivers side,but not lock. The locks will lock from the passenger side just fine,but not the drivers side. I tried changing out the drivers side switch ,but that didnt help. The problem didnt start right away. The "not locking" was intermittent for about 2 weeks ,now it wont lock at all.

Any one else experience this?

Thanks

 

It has to be a problem with either the switch or the wire/connector.

 

I forgot to mention (and should have hit "edit"):

You can try to check the door lock motor itself. You need to drill out the aluminum rivet on the edge of the door to pull it out. You can re-attach it later with a bolt. But take the motor to a 12v supply (your battery) and get some jumpers to apply voltage to the motor one way then the other. There should be no reason why it should work one way and not the other.

 

xlt4wd90....Yes,if the drivers door lock didnt function at all,I would suspect the lock motor, but,the drivers side will lock and unlock from the passenger side switches just as it should. I did change out the drivers lock/unlock switch assembly and that did not help. Theres three wires in the door lock electrical plug.Anyone know which 2 to jump to get the door to lock or unlock?

Thanks

 

Do you have an ohm meter? With wire disconected to the motor, check ohms between two of the terminals, write the reading down. Repeat till you have three readings going between the different terminals. IE The two outer terminals, the upper outer terminal and center terminal, the lower outer terminal and center terminal. now compare the readings. you should have two readings that are almost the same, say 3 ohms. you should have another reading thats around twice the other two readings, say 6 ohms as an example. The Lower Readings are between Common and the up or down part of the motor. the higher reading is both the up and down part of the motor. You do not want to put your jumper on these two terminals at the same time, the motor would burn up instantly if you do. You want to jump between the two terminals that gave you the lower readings, then move to the other terminal that gave you a lower reading. If you have no or a very low readings on a set of terminals the motor is shot. Also you do not want to jumper the motor while it is in contact with the vehicle as terminals are internally shorted to ground. If I remember correctly the lock motor was only about $14 at NAPA

 

On my 1990 and a 1994 model I saw, the motors were different, but they each only had 2 connections. Neither connection was grounded. In fact, the later model had plastic housing. Also, those motors go for closer to $50 each, even for repops. But that does not appear to be the problem here.

Unfortunately, I do not have an electrical diagram of the system. But it looks like there is some kind of central control device. The switch will connect the big pink wire to one of the other two wires, depending on which button was pressed, and this sends a signal to the control circuit to drive the motor one direction or the other.

So first pull the switch off from the connector and use an ohmmeter on the switch; connect between the pin that the big pink wire would connect to and one of the other pins, press a button, then the other. One of them should short out between the two pins. Then connect the ohmmeter between the big pink wire pin and the other pin (still on the swtich) and press the other button. Again, you should see a short. At the same time, presing the other button should not affect the pin you're looking at.

Now you can try jumpering the pins on the connector; go between the big pink wire and one of the other wires. One should lock, the other should unlock. Since your driver's side switch is not locking, I would follow that wire to see if it has a break somewhere along its path (assuming the switch is OK).

 

Here’s a screen shot of the power door locks diagram taken from the 1993 ford service CD.

Click here for diagram

 

I have forgotten when I looked at my switches last. You should short out the BK/W wire to the PK/Y wire to try to activate the lock. Then chase down the PK/Y wire to see if it's somehow defective.

 

I have the same problem & was looking at mine yesterday. I thought it was the switch, but it worked fine when I tried it on the passnger side. Passenger side has a hot lead in the center wire, if I remember correctly. I have no power to this lead on my drivers door so I can assume there is a break somewhere. I then tried jumping from the hot lead to the power window with the ignition on. I had no results, so I 'm guessing something is disconnected on the other wires as well, but this may not be the case in your situation.

 

Hope I'm not highjacking this thread, but looking at the wiring diagrams, the wires for the driver's side all route through C200, which I assume is a plug connector somewhere. Just another place to look.

 

i have the same problem on my 89. and the key won't work in the driver's door. i am just going to swap the pass and driver's door parts. it's weird because the driver's door can use the power unlock but not lock. i always thought it was just one motor like the windows.

 

The power door locks are actuated by only one motor in each door.....

 

ok, looking at the schematic this should be pretty simple.....
If the lock button from the passenger side locks the driver's side, obviously the motor is working. The wiring from the passenger side routes to connector 600 in the driver's side door. There is also a short wire that routes from the switch connector 505 on the drivers side to connector 600 and meets with the wire from the passenger side. From connector 600 there is a single wire going to the door lock/unlock control relay. Having said that, I would say...1. Bad lock switch or 2. Wire at switch end or connector end not making contact.
BTW...To find connector 600, start at the switch and trace back, the first connector you get to is 600. The wire you want to check is the Pink/Yellow wire. It should meet with a Pink/Yellow from the passenger side at the connector.

 

I've solved the problem. I found a broken wire in the door behind the door panel. Just soldered it back together and its working again. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

AeroDad! Broken wire is a tipical problem on drivers door. I had the same problem too on my aero. Lust week I fixed broken wire and replaced drivers door control module on Mercedes Actros '02.... Power sypply wire and CAN bus were damaged.... Driver asked me how to avoid problem, I answered him, not to open/close door so frequently..... :-)....