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I forgot to say that I found these two critters sitting under the valve cover, can you imagine they cost $.36 for 100 pieces and two of them are costing me a new engine!
Dave,
is it possible to use the rubber gasket compound on the oil cooler headers instead of the paper gaskets?It will take me weeks to order them for France?Otherwise I could cut some out of gasket material?
Thanks,
saigon
a little bit of tech talk:While swapping the 6.9 to a 7.3, like Dave said, the oil cooler does not fit at all, I kept the 7.3 cooler and will bypass the exhaust so it will fit. Also the right motor support braket is not at all the same and I had to put the 6.9 one on the 7.3. The fuel filter was on the right and I moved it to the left but had to move the IP inlet tube to the other side,otherwise I am keeping all the 6.9 wiring for the new engine, hope to try to fire it up on saturday.
saigon
PS. Dave thanks for looking in for the oil cooler gaskets, hope the Loctite Blue silicone will hold out!
Finally things got complicated again ! had to swap the left motor mount and also the left exhaust manifold so the 6.9 oil cooler would fit, the 7.3 cooler was toast.Now the engine is in and all that is left is the bolting on the C6 and all the other small components, should fire staurday night ( I hope)
You must be doing a swap from a f-series to e-series or visa versa.I put a e-series into a f-series and had to change the manifold over the cooler and the cooler,never had to change the mounts,the fuel filter was ok,however it was in a diff location but i had the clearance to leave it there.Had some gp harness issues as the van harness was too short.It was a 7.3-7.3 swap though,both 92's.
Right! swap from an 1988 E to a 1986 F,what a hassle!What's the best way to line up the C6, converter on the transmission or on the flywheel? Thanks...
You're better off having the converter in the trans, sunk into the pump all the way, as it is harder to tell when it is engaged to the pump properly, and a broken trans case could result. ( I know from experience unfortunately...) Get some bolts that thread into the block, make sure they are plenty long, and cut the heads off them, thread them into the block a bit, but not tight, then use them as guide pins to line up, then you will be lined up enough to get the converter studs lined up and into the flexplate. Remeber, the studs only go into the flexplate one way, so all 4 have to line up at once, kind of a PITA, but it is how it is. I imagine it is to be certain the balance is rght.
Well I had once chance out of two and did it backwards,converter on the flywheel.The whole assembly did go in real smooth with no binding, I took the gp's out and hooked up the starter to give the engine a whirl, spun real nice with a chugga-chugga sound, there was a whining noise but I think it was the starter that was spinning like crazy since there was no compression.If there had been binding somewhere do you think the engine would have spun?
Thnaks,
saigon
Phew!!!Made it by the skin of my teeth! I do have an extra C6, the guy that sold me the 7.3L engine gave me the trans thatwent with it, he said he could never get it to go into third speed.On the other hand on the 7.3 engine there was no vacuum pump and the vacuum fittings and hoses on top of the IP were missing maybe that's why he never could go into high gear?
Everything was ready last night, had the batteries charged,oil was full, anifreeze to the brim. I checked the levels again this morning before firing up and the antifreeze had gone into the crankcase, about a gallon.I think it's the oil-cooler, I didn't have the gaskets so I put on RTV.Will tear it down again to check it out,in the meantime I ordered a gasket set for the oil-cooler from Rock Auto but am not sure the "o" rings are included in the set, anyone know where i can order some?
Thanks to all!
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