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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

52 Radiator

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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 08:53 PM
  #16  
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DonMckay
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There are a few of the truck Parts places that have the new radiators for our old trucks. LMC http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/0071.html Truck has them and it looks like they will bolt right in.
Don
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #17  
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52 panel
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I have a 302 in my 52 Panel and am using a Griffin radiator. Bolts up to the original "U"mount. I still have challenges in traffic on a hot day. Have run mechanical fan and electric fan with the same results. Next step is a shroud.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #18  
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check a radiator shop. They should be able to mount your tanks and mounts on a new core.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 06:42 AM
  #19  
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I am somewhat surprised that you are having trouble cooling a 302 with a new radiator. Are the original sheet metal baffles still in place at the bottom front of the radiator with a rubber seal and in the hood with the rubber seal to seal at the top of the radiator? Are others finding that they have to run a shroud? Henry put them there to minimize cooling air bypassing the radiator. Could you tell us more?
Are others out there with 48-52 finding that they need a shroud?
I will be running a sbc and planned on an electric fan without a shroud.



Originally Posted by 52 panel
I have a 302 in my 52 Panel and am using a Griffin radiator. Bolts up to the original "U"mount. I still have challenges in traffic on a hot day. Have run mechanical fan and electric fan with the same results. Next step is a shroud.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 49willard
I am somewhat surprised that you are having trouble cooling a 302 with a new radiator. Are the original sheet metal baffles still in place at the bottom front of the radiator with a rubber seal and in the hood with the rubber seal to seal at the top of the radiator? Are others finding that they have to run a shroud? Henry put them there to minimize cooling air bypassing the radiator. Could you tell us more?
Are others out there with 48-52 finding that they need a shroud?
I will be running a sbc and planned on an electric fan without a shroud.
Will,

I was prepared to add a shroud on my 48 with SBC but so far no need. I am not running the hood seal at the top of the radiator but I am running the panel in front of it at the bottom and I sealed up the gap on both sides between the radiator and core support. I am running a 5 blade mechanical clutch fan with a mid 70s Dodge truck radiator. This particular radiator has a large coolant capacity (over three gallons). I have idled the engine for up to 30 minutes in the garage and it never went over 180 degrees. I have not driven the truck at highway speed yet but I do not anticipate any cooling problems. Usually, if it will idle in traffic without heating up, it won't heat up at speed. I am also using a separate transmission cooler so the transmission fluid does not heat the radiator coolant.

Vern
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 07:21 AM
  #21  
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A shroud is just the ticket for low-speed cooling. The fan does no good if air can come around from behind it instead of coming thru the radiator.

When you were using an electric fan, was it a pusher or puller? It's hard to believe you had a problem with either on an aluminum radiator. Something else may be wrong (water pump, temperature switch, etc)
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 09:21 AM
  #22  
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52 panel
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The electric fan was reversable but I had it set up as a puller. The mechanical fan was a flex fan. The temp stays normal until you are in the mobile parking lots we get at rush hour. If I am in bumper to bumper traffic for over 15 minutes, the temp starts to climb into the 230 range. As soon as I can get some air through the grill from movement, the temp drops immediately to 190. I need to see how effective the hood seal is and also make sure no air is getting around the bottom. I also plan on fabing a shroud as I will now have the additional heat from the a/c.

Thanks for the response.

bernie
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 09:30 AM
  #23  
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Bernie -

What is the cfm rating of the electric fan? I run an electric fan mounted directly to the stock radiator in front of a warmed up Cleveland with no problems. My fan is only 1600 cfm.

I'll bet if yours was in the 2000 cfm range, even without a shroud, you'd be fine.

If you mount a shroud, make sure it's the kind with flappers in the corners that open under pressure from the ram air at speed. Otherwise, you'll just trade overheating at idle for overheating at speed. Without the flappers, the shroud actually reduces the amount of air that can pass thru the radiator at speed.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 09:38 AM
  #24  
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52 panel
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Randy Jack,
The electric fan was 2200 cfm. It didn't make any difference when I went to the mechanical fan. I think the problem is the air passing from the engine compartment back over/under the radiator and recirculating. The under hood temp gets pretty high on the 95 degree and humid days here in the Florida Panhandle. There are times I long for the wonderful climate I enjoyed in Escondido, CA. My old 52 panel never had a problem in that climate.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 10:46 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 52 panel
Randy Jack,
The electric fan was 2200 cfm. It didn't make any difference when I went to the mechanical fan. I think the problem is the air passing from the engine compartment back over/under the radiator and recirculating. The under hood temp gets pretty high on the 95 degree and humid days here in the Florida Panhandle. There are times I long for the wonderful climate I enjoyed in Escondido, CA. My old 52 panel never had a problem in that climate.
You did not indicate if the sheet metal dams mentioned in my previous post were in place. If they are, you should not have an air recirculation problem. I ran cross country flat towing a model A with plenty of weight in the bed in hot summer 90 degree + conditions in 1978 running a recored stock radiator, stock Buick mechanical fan cooling a 56 nailhead Buick. The engine temp ran right where it should. The sheet metal dams were in place. Is the dam under the hood missing?
 

Last edited by 49willard; Aug 24, 2006 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #26  
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Bill,
Right now I have everything off the truck from the firewall forward (see gallery) as I update the suspension, engine, air conditioning, etc. I will pay particular attention to daming the air when I put it back together. Do you have any pictures of the sealings that you did on your 49?

bernie
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 12:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 52 panel
Bill,
Right now I have everything off the truck from the firewall forward (see gallery) as I update the suspension, engine, air conditioning, etc. I will pay particular attention to daming the air when I put it back together. Do you have any pictures of the sealings that you did on your 49?

bernie
Bernie,
I do not have any pix since I am currently disassembled, however, the air dams that I am talking about are the stock ones. They are different for the original V8 position for the radiator than for the 6 cylinder position. The rubber seals to the bottom and top of the radiator that are fastened to the dams(with those big staples) are sold by most of the dealers like Carpenter etc, i.e. readily available. I am assuming that the 48-50 air dams are the same in 51-52. Others can perhaps verify this. If you are missing them, I am sure that someone on this forum can help you out. I have also seen them occassionally on ebay. You need to know which position you are running the radiator in and get the correct sheet metal dams if you do not have them.
Good luck
Bill
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 12:41 PM
  #28  
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52 panel
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Bill,
Thanks. I will check out carpenters.

bernie
 
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