Check the output wires with a test light.
In one state the Red will have power and the Brown with white stripe will not.
In the other state the Brown with white stripe will have power and the Red will not.

Or have some one switch tanks in the cab while you hold your hand on the Relay or put your ear on it and see if it clicks.

How are the photos coming?

 

OK. Tonight I tried to see if I could get any fuel near the carb. I un connected the starter wire on the starter relay so I could hear what pump was running. I un-did the main fuel feed line by the carb. No gas. So I thought I would experiment with those ground wires on the cut-off relay and the pump selector relay. I re-configured them. The cut-off relay has 2 black (I think they are black?) wires. One looks like it is in the same hole as the resistance wire on the cut-off relay. I butt connected that to the firewall ground. The other black wire on the cut-off relay I butt connected to the black wire that comes out of the pump selector relay. I re-tried turning the key to start to check the pumps against the tank selector switch on the dash. It now works like it is supposed to according to the selector switch. I am now getting gas to the carb. I re-connected the starter
wire to the starter relay. The truck started but will not stay running as the pumps stop once the truck is started. I tried to put a jumper wire into those 2 connector holes on the 2 wire oil pressure connector but the truck still would not stay running. Now what?

Eric

 

See if you have voltage on one of the terminals of the pressure switch connector that you are jumping, with the key in run(one of the red/yellow hash wires).

 

Should there be a certain amount of voltage(12v) on 1 of those wires in run?
What about in start?
I don't know if I had a good connection with that wire I stuck in there.

 

Yes you should have 12V on one of the R/Y in the Start or Run Position of the key. Make sure that fuse #18 is good or you will not have the 12V.

 

I can't find this 2 wire switch for sale anywhere. Does anyone know who may sell these? All the oil pressure switches I am finding look like the "Bell" shaped pressure sender/switch.

 

Any Auto Parts Store or The Ford Dealer should have them.

Here is one from NAPA.

 

I am getting 12v to one side of the 2 wire connector.

 

That is good (OK).

 

Yes, that is good. Next step; With the key in run so you get 12 volts on one side of the pressure switch plug, take your jumper and stick it in the pressure switch plug, and then pull it out. Everytime you do this, you should here a "click" at the fuel pump cutoff relay. See if this works.

 

Yes. I did that and it does click. What does that mean?

 

It means that the "Fuel Pump Relay" has a good coil, it is grounded OK, the Red/Yellow H wiring is OK and the Fuse #18 is good and is getting power in the position that you had the key in.

EDIT Did you hear the Fuel Pump run that the dash switch was set to every time you put the jumper in with the key on and the engine not running?

 

No I did not hear the pumps run. I just heard a click from the relay. I did not have a very good connection with the jumper wire. I had to wiggle it a little. I also blew the #18 fuse after I did it a couple of times. I should have heard the pumps running in RUN and START positions? How come mine didn't?

 

At one time you gave me the impression that someone had moved the Fuse link "T" to the Battery Connection at the Starter Relay and that you had moved it back to the "I" ?? Terminal.
If so did you re-hook the Fuse Link "S" to the Battery Connection at the Starter Relay?
In other words do you have power on the Yellow wire at the "FUEL CUTOFF RELAY"?

 

I don't know if the yellow wire has power. I have not checked that one. I will tonight. That wire is fuse link "S", yellow at the shut-off relay but blue at the Starter relay, correct? It should have power at all times?

edit: Could the inertia switch be tripped? Where is the inertia switch located?