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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 09:14 AM
  #31  
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OK! here is where I am with this. I got the ground wiring corrected on the pump relays. I fixed the wiring on the starter relay. I pulled off the starter wire from the relay and turned the key over to start with the front tank selected and the pump kicked on. I repeated with the rear tank selected and the rear pump kicked on. I re-connected the starter wire to the relay. I started the truck but the pump does not stay running in the RUN position.
Is it now the oil pressure switch?
I don't understand this thing or things. Is there 2 different things for the oil pressue, 1 with a single wire and 1 with 2 wires??
I see where the 1 wire connects to that big thing by the EGR valve. I don't know where the 2 wire goes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #32  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Sailfish83
I pulled off the starter wire from the relay and turned the key over to start with the front tank selected and the pump kicked on.
The BIG wire going to the starter?
Originally Posted by Sailfish83
I started the truck but the pump does not stay running in the RUN position.
Is it now the oil pressure switch?
YES
Originally Posted by Sailfish83
I don't understand this thing or things. Is there 2 different things for the oil pressue, 1 with a single wire and 1 with 2 wires??
YES
Originally Posted by Sailfish83
I see where the 1 wire connects to that big thing by the EGR valve. I don't know where the 2 wire goes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
They go to the Oil Pressure Switch that is mounted in a "T" pipe fitting I think. There is a guy that is going to take a photo of it and send it to me or post it this weekend.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #33  
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Oh that would be great if I could see a photo of it.
Could I temperarily jumper that 2 wire connector together so I can use my truck?

And yes it was the BIG starter wire.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #34  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Sailfish83
Oh that would be great if I could see a photo of it.
Could I temperarily jumper that 2 wire connector together so I can use my truck?

And yes it was the BIG starter wire.

Thanks.
Yes you can but you will not have a safety fuel shut down if you have a wreck or lose oil pressure.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 02:19 PM
  #35  
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From: Easton,Ks
If I am unable to get a photo of the T fitting maybe this will help.



This is from one of the guys I was hoping to get a photo from.


Unfortunately the switch is "buried" so far down I am unable to get a picture without quite a bit of disassembly. The only time I was able to see it was while I was adding an additional "tee" for a mechanical oil pressure gauge tube.
I'll try to describe the location as best I can. Top rear of engine block near center (or just to drivers side of center), just aft of rear edge of intake manifold. Out of oil pressure "port" in block is a pipe "tee". The oil pressure switch screws into side port of "tee" and the oil pressure sending unit screws into the top port. Switch has two wires, sending unit has one wire. Switch is positioned horizontally very near block and may be partially or wholly covered by vacuum hoses, wiring, etc. On mine, the wiring connector points toward the drivers side. Both switch wires are Red/Yel, sending unit wire is Wht/Red. Sending unit is a "can" about 1-1/2" dia. with a domed end where wire attaches. Switch is about 3/4" dia. X 1-1/2" long (don't hold me to these dimensions, it's been about 3 or 4 years since I last saw the switch). Hope this helps. Ken (Piffery1)
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 10:32 AM
  #36  
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Thanks Ken.
I called the Ford dealership trying to find the T fitting and it was discontinued in 1993. I was wondering if I could make one out of galvanized pipe or black pipe. I would have to find out if the threads are Regular or metric. My gut feeling is that they are metric and I don't think that other pipe comes in metric
Or I will have to see if I can locate one at a junk yard.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 02:41 PM
  #37  
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Just to go to Lowe's or your local hardware store and get brass pipe fittings. The threads are standard tapered pipe threads. Brass looks better, but standard black or galvanized pipe will work. I think it's 1/8" pipe thread, but if it's 1/4" you can get a hex bushing to adapt it down.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 06:46 AM
  #38  
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It is 1/4 inch.
I have a new wrinkle. I think my fuel pump selector valve is somehow reversed. Is there a way to reverse polar on that?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #39  
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From: Easton,Ks
What is reversed?
Does the gauge read the wrong tank?
Does the fuel come from the wrong tank?
Does the fuel pump selector valve change positions?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 11:06 AM
  #40  
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The tank gauge reads right according to the selector switch but the opposite pump runs. I am not getting fuel to the carb now!?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 11:15 AM
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like some one has reversed the Brown with white stripe wire with the Red wire at the "Tank Selector Relay".
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 11:28 AM
  #42  
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From: Easton,Ks
Also make sure that the "Tank Selector Relay" is changing states when you switch the dash switch.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:23 PM
  #43  
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How would I check if it is changing states?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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There are 2 grounds on the fuel cut-off relay. Could I have the wrong ground connected to the selector relay ground? the other ground on the cut-off relay goes to the firewall. I don't know if there is any difference which ground I used.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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All grounds are black aren't they? If they are another color they may be for something else.
 
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