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Sam check the cab mounts for failure. If you bolted the gear in the three holes on the frame rail it shouldn't change the angle. If the cab mount has caved in it will cause that to happen.
John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01
NC Chapter
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.
cranked the truck this weekend, just to run the motor a bit. figured i'd spin the wheel a bit, to make sure the gear's not leaking after i put the new seals in.
spins great from straight to left...on my way back from full left to straight, i felt a little 'bump' near the straight position...and the steering got tight when i kept turning to the right, and seemed to not turn as far right as i thought it should.
it's a '78 integral p/s gear. i just replaced the seal on the input shaft- four bolts, and spin the wheel to the left to unscrew the worm. replaced the seal, and put it right back together-
it was turning smoothly before i replaced the seal...what did i do wrong?
I'm going to be using a newer p/s pump on my truck just because I comes with the 5.0; it's the one with plastic case. Why doesn't these have the cooler? Which is the pressure and the return lines, the bigger steel line is the return and the smaller is the supply. Right?
figured out what i did wrong...my friend's dad is an old ford mechanic. got him on the phone yesterday.
evidently, there are a bunch of loose ball bearings inside the gear...and when i spun the gear apart to replace the seal between the main body and the input shaft housing...guess what happened?
he said it would be serious work to get everything right again, and suggested that i try to swap the gear out at the junkyard. (since it was leaking all over the place when i got it).
but- i think i'm done. too frustrated to mess with it. i'm planning to tear it all back out this weekend, and get my baby back on the road with the original manual steering setup.
Sam if you had the pump section out of the gear, and rotated it out, then he is correct. There are several of them so make sure that you get them all out if you pull it. You will see a strap with two large screws, remove the strap and you will see two holes to replace the ***** in. Put the pump back in and load all of the *****. You may have to rotate is a little to get them all in. Once in, button it up and start loading the oil. You may have to loosen the return line while slowly turning the steering wheel full rotations about 20 times. This should bleed the air out.
You should have been able to replace the seal without taking it apart.
John
jowilker
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker|Club FTE since 01 01] My FTE Page
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NC Truck Owners] NC Ford Truck owners group
66F100s Rule
In the cool still quite of night you can hear chevies rusting away.