97' Expy needs a recharge?
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From: Culpeper, Virginia
97' Expy needs a recharge?
97' Expedition, Blowing hot air, picked up a can of the 134a recharge with gauge attached.
Trying to figure out where to attach the line for the recharge can.
There is a small black cap on a line a couple inches behind the radiator, is this the proper location for the hook up?
Where should we look?
Thanks
Blair
Trying to figure out where to attach the line for the recharge can.
There is a small black cap on a line a couple inches behind the radiator, is this the proper location for the hook up?
Where should we look?
Thanks
Blair
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by 78bigunns
97' Expedition, Blowing hot air, picked up a can of the 134a recharge with gauge attached.
Trying to figure out where to attach the line for the recharge can.
There is a small black cap on a line a couple inches behind the radiator, is this the proper location for the hook up?
Where should we look?
Thanks
Blair
Trying to figure out where to attach the line for the recharge can.
There is a small black cap on a line a couple inches behind the radiator, is this the proper location for the hook up?
Where should we look?
Thanks
Blair
The low pressure fitting should be on the side of the accumulator can pointing towards #2 cylinder. Remove the plastic cover over the Maxi-fuses and the starter relay for better visability. You may have to move a few wire looms to the side to see it.
Steve
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Thanks for the heads up.
The can's hose wouldn't fit anyhow.
We found the low side and hooked up the can, the gauge never got into the range for refill.
We tried checking fuses and whatnot, but never got it figured out.
I don't think the compressor is cycling.
Blair
The can's hose wouldn't fit anyhow.
We found the low side and hooked up the can, the gauge never got into the range for refill.
We tried checking fuses and whatnot, but never got it figured out.
I don't think the compressor is cycling.
Blair
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From: Culpeper, Virginia
On the can of 134a we bought, the attached gauge. We hooked it up but never discharged any 134 from the can. We just took the reading on the gauge.
I don't remember the exact number, I know it started in the red, way up there, then when he turned on the system and kicked it on high, it came way down into the blue part of the gauge.
I think in that range it's something like 30-40 pounds and you are not to add any.
The blower kicks in all speeds, but the air is warm.
When under the hood, isn't one of the AC lines supposed to relatively cool? Maybe the one that runs to the condensor?
None of his lines were cool?
I don't remember the exact number, I know it started in the red, way up there, then when he turned on the system and kicked it on high, it came way down into the blue part of the gauge.
I think in that range it's something like 30-40 pounds and you are not to add any.
The blower kicks in all speeds, but the air is warm.
When under the hood, isn't one of the AC lines supposed to relatively cool? Maybe the one that runs to the condensor?
None of his lines were cool?
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From: St Louis
You really need a set of guages to accurately see what's happening under the hood. With only a low side guage, it's like performing surgery with one eye covered - no depth perception.
If the guage went from a very high reading down into a 'normal' range when the system was turned on, the system is working to some extent. At least, the compressor is running.
Put your hand on the eaccumulator can. It is usually cold.
I'd start looking at your blend door operation instead of the AC system.
Steve
If the guage went from a very high reading down into a 'normal' range when the system was turned on, the system is working to some extent. At least, the compressor is running.
Put your hand on the eaccumulator can. It is usually cold.
I'd start looking at your blend door operation instead of the AC system.
Steve
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I had done some searching on the google after they left with the truck, (in-laws Expy).
I had found a couple posts on some wayward site about the blend door and fuses being blown, but couldn't find much more in depth info than that.
Is there a fuse or fuses that are in direct control of the blend door or a motor down there?
I had found a couple posts on some wayward site about the blend door and fuses being blown, but couldn't find much more in depth info than that.
Is there a fuse or fuses that are in direct control of the blend door or a motor down there?
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Hotshot
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From: St Louis
Fuse F5 in the under-dash fusebox supplies BOTH the blend door actuator and the compressor clutch.
Typical blend door failures are faulty potentiometers, stripped ***** or, very frequently, a broken door inside the plenum which is an expensive repair ($500-800).
Steve
Typical blend door failures are faulty potentiometers, stripped ***** or, very frequently, a broken door inside the plenum which is an expensive repair ($500-800).
Steve
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I think we can eliminate the **** being stripped, when he turned it to the warm side, the air got warmer.
Can the plenum be accessed from under dash without pulling the dash?
What the devil is a potentiomenter?
Can the plenum be accessed from under dash without pulling the dash?
What the devil is a potentiomenter?
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