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Comming home today, I went to take off from a stop sign and the truck almost stalled, then took off fine. It was like a bad carb (of course I'm fuel injected)
So then later down the road, the tranny starts making shifts on its own. The torque converter would unlock, then lock back up.
Further down the road, up hill was a problem. It would sputter and stumble and the tranny would shift.
So where should I look first? I checked the fluid and it looks fine. Please help!
so this morning, I took the truck across town to drop off some fence. The truck ran great! So, since it was 112 degrees yesterday, I chalked it of to just too damn hot. Then later in the day while hauling my tractor (work had to be done) and the out side temp at a cool 105 degrees, the symptoms happened again. Any cluse before I take it to the shop?
Go to fordfuelinjection.com and learn how to pull your own engine codes. What you are describing sounds like it COULD be the throttle position sensor (TPS), which is not only used by the engine, but also your E4OD tranny. Mine went last summer, and I thought the tranny was going to grenade itself, along with the truck running like crap. There were about 3-4 different codes, but one of them was a failed TPS, so I replaced that, and all the others were symptoms that went away.
Replaced the TPS and everything is great!! That was the ticket, no adjusting required.
I wanted to post my result. My only complaint about this site is people forget to tell how their problem turned out. I read these posts that are similar to a problem I'm having, think yeah that's it, then nothing from the original user. I can't blame a guy though, I was so excited to have my truck fixed I forgot everything else! HA!
I spoke too soon!! I drove 150 mi on the new TPS, even hauled a trailer with no problems. Sunday, the problem was back!
So, any ideas? I do not own a code scanner. I hate taking it to the dealer beacuse I like to fix it, and the nearest dealer is 30 min away. Please let me know!!
I think you should at least check your fuel pressure. Get a fuel gauge and connect it to your shrader valve on the fuel rail. If the hose is long enough you can rig it up so you can see it while driving. When your problem re occurs you can see what , if anything is going on with the fuel system.Not sure what engine you have but pressure on my 88-5.0 runs around 34 psi. Manual says should be between 30-45 psi when running.I think you will have to do some diagnostics or you may spent money on parts for nothing.This simple test can tell you at least what is going on with the fuel delivery system when the problem is occuring.Also I would see if there is any codes as a previous post had suggested.
I talked to 2 Ford dealers today. One of them wanted $200 to diagnose it but stated if there is no check engine light, they might not be able to figure out the problem (leaving me out $200)
The other dealer said he would charge $90, but needs the problem to happen while I'm there.
The local repair shop said before 94, Ford blocked the codes so he can't get them, only the dealer.
Around $90.00 to check for codes seems to be the rate for dealers.Not sure at what level you are at as far a working on your truck. If there are no codes and the problem is intermittent it is difficult to fix. Hopefully it will fail and that would make it easier to solve. It doesnt have to be looked at by the dealer.Not sure about that shop that said the codes are blocked. First time I ever heard of it.Looks like because it is intermittent nobody wants to touch it or make any promises which is understandable.Just as well because it could turn into a parts replacment exercise and cost you a lot of money. Checking for codes is not that hard.If you can replace the tps you can check the codes yourself or check the fuel pressure.At some point you are going start have checking things and through the process of elimination hopefully you can narrow down the problem to a specific area or come across it by poking around. It is frustrating. Not sure what else to tell you.
You are right; just got to get in there and test. Thanks for your help though. I was hoping for someone to pop up and tell me they had the same problem and the fix is.... But with computers no two problems seem a like.
Get an Actron code reader for $30 to $35 bucks. Best investment I ever made and has saved me hundreds of bucks. The guy that told you Ford blocked their codes before '94 is on crack. Don't ever take your truck to him for service. Check engine light may not come on for an intermittent problem. Sounds like the same condition when my MAP sensor went bad, but DO NOT buy any parts until you check your codes.
Also, I think you have a transmission modulator. Inexpensive part, bad ones cause shifting problems, and it is not picked up by the computer. Don't buy a Fram modulator.
Might want to try the MLPS too (Manual lever position sensor, also known as the nuetral safety switch.) I know it will cause it to seem like it shift into nuetral and all that.
Another thing to consider is that I'm pretty sure these transmissions (or any electronic one's I've ever worked on) will unlock the torque converter if the transmission overheats. I think you need to put a bigger cooler on it and put a gauge on er.