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doesn't sound too bad, have you checked on the 446 kit? same concept with the 390 block but it uses a 4.25" arm in it... if it's not that much more money I'd go bigger, but thats just the way I am... LOL
It depends on what you want out of the truck and motor or its intended use, fuel mileage a concern? For a lot less you can install a 428 crank, minimal over bore of .020" for a future rebuilds and have a 414" motor. With that 4.125" stroke and small bore of a 390 you'll shroud the valves. It will work ok if your just pulling a horse trailer around. Greg (GTEX) has a Scat crank and runs it hard without problems. I just can't get over a crank cast in China, machined in USA.
If you gota have a long arm go to 4.25" but then to make it breathe you'll want 427" bore with a good set of big valve heads, then again the rod journals are down to 2.200" diameter.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jun 20, 2006 at 09:28 PM.
Every now and again I see Barry toss out another tidbit just to gauge interest. If things go well we just might see short blocks with the bigger bores.
Oh well, just a few more years of child support... :~(
JMono, the rpm kit looks sorta okay, but why limit yourself to 4.125 stroke ? As has been mentioned, our friend Barry offers kits with the 4.250 crank. And if you are going to spend the money for a new crank, why not get the longest one you can ? Yes the 4.25 crank will fit in a 390 block just fine, actually even more will fit, like 4.385~4.500, but cranks that long are usually custom forgings or carved from billet, and are scary exspensive. But the 4.25 and 4.125 cranks are the same or very close in price, so why not ? Barry can help you choose the piston style to get whatever compression you need, and help you pick a cam. I built a 421 from a 390, it is a 4.110 bore ( .060 ) and has the 410 crank, 3.98 stroke. I used the 3.98 stroke 'cause aftermarket 4.25 cranks weren't available yet, if they had been, I would have ran a 4.25er. DF, on lunch @ work
Well, I never knew Barry had stroker kits! Now that I know that he does, and I know he knows the best. It's probably what I would end up buying! Thanks for the reply. Ho do like your 421 stroker?
Before I built the 414 19 years ago there were no after market cranks. I installed a 454 that I built for a friend, I was breaking it in for him (2,000 miles), motor ran for 67K before the crank broke, block wasted. After that I had a standard 428 crank welded and ground for 4.1875" stroke in a 4.260" bored 427 block, ran great for 32K miles until the crank broke. It had a few cracks besides the broken journal cheek and another destroyed 427 block.
I'm leary about cast cranks in a stroker motor with swinging all that iron around and from China no thank you. Yes I saw 752 hp numbers but that is a quick dyno pull, impress me with 250K plus miles on the street without failure and rebuildable without cracks for another 250 or 300K miles. Going cheap in the long run costs more, I done did that twice.
Same thing as going to your local auto parts store looking for Champ plugs but they tell you NGK plugs are better, only because NGK's are the only brand they sell therefore they must be better for his profit. Bottom line everybody is into it for the money. Sorry i'm ranting but memories of destroyed motors last for years.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jun 21, 2006 at 09:03 PM.
You run a welded crank????? Glad I was sitting for that. LOL
Had one bud that would have Cushmann cranks built up: Not a high performance application. Another friend had a Mitsubishi crank in to be turned. Shop called him and said it was shot, but could be welded. Later, when it did break he was pretty much hosed. They wouldn't warranty a welded crank.
I've read good things from people who have actually bought the SCAT crank. Have you heard different? I've read some debate over what they're really made of. The perception is that retailers have an array of trade names for cast iron???
A friend of mine back in the 60's had 392 cranks welded and turned for strokers and ran them in Top Fuel, nothing wrong with that. Between 30 and 35 passes they were checked, by around 50 small cracks started then sell 'em to gas runners for another 100 passes.
I'll take a LA Kryptonite anyday reguardless the high price over a cast or what ever brand name you want to call a cast crank. Cast is cast, like polishing a turd, what you have when done? Still a turd.
Well cast can be ok Carl in some race applications...It all depends too on the block prep..I wouldnt run a cast in a 500hp FE for long..but you add crossbolt main caps and your good to go!!
But with that said...If I had a 15 to 20K Motor...I damn sure wouldnt be running cast.. LOL....JMO...
And I think AW Brown has an FE stroker kit balanced and ready to go with a 4.250 Arm for $1650 I think? I'd have to ask him again..but i'am sure thats what it is??
I ran a stock stroke cast CJ crank in an FE 454 stroker for something around 10 years. About 1000 documented strip passes (NHRA Bracket Race Finals participant at Indy seven times) and innumerable late night acceleration contests. Darn crank was about the only thing I didn't break over that timeframe.
The "676HP Dinosaur" I built in the July 2004 Hot Rod magazine article has one of the very first Scat 4.25 cranks in it. I have a lot of dyno pulls on that one (probably 60??) and 35-40 track passes, along with a fair amount of street driving (I ran it in the first Hot Rod Pump Gas Drags). So far no issues. The material is actually ductile iron. The 460 guys report good life on their Scat cast cranks as long as they stay below 850-900HP. Generally speaking, a steel crank will last longer due to accumulative fatigue - - but my own 428 experience says it will be a long time before most of us need to worry...
Is there a 4.250" Scat crank available made of steel instead of cast?
"need to worry" your right as i'll not run cast in my future 482" stroker. Done, final, last word.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jun 22, 2006 at 08:45 PM.
As of today the next step up beyond a cast Scat at around 750 is a billet at around 2000 bucks. Without question the steel piece is the right thing for a real serious race car. Its just out of financial reality for a lot of folks.
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