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Can you guys help me out? I need to know what the point gap should be for a 428, and the timing. I seem to remember it as being 14-18 BTDC, but Jeez! We can't seem to get it right! All we have is a timing light. Any tips ot tricks?
Rule one with point dist. You have to set dwell (point gap) first then set timing and all my 428's including the CJ ran 12° initial. Points should be .016 to .018".
OKay, so we have that right. Previously, we have ran great at about 14-16 on the timing, but for some reason we cannot get it to run right now. We think it may be a charging problem. We will be checking that out AFTER we replace the spark plug wires, cap, rotor and plugs tomorrow.
Rarely will a charging problem cause you an engine problem until the battery is to low to start the engine. If the dwell is too far out of spec it can cause all sorts of ignition problems, including not running. A cheater method of setting the points is to use a match book cover as a gauge. It should be close enough to get you running unless you have other issues.
Long time no see.... we figured out the problem. The spark plug wires needed replacing. Also replaced cap, rotor, and plugs. The truck runs pretty damn good now, though it gets that lovely pinging, valve rattle sound at full throttle with a load (I haul a horse trailer) Gap on points and plugs is set, timing is about 15 degree BTDC. So, do I turn the dizzy clockwise? Or counter-clockwise? I can never remember!
And you know, my husband gets really disgusted that he can't just set the timing to such and such, and have it run perfect, and I can't get him to understand that it's not something wrong with the truck... it's just the way you gotta do things. I found a killer step by step tuning guide online quite a while ago... detailed instructions for timing by ear. I can't find it now. Any suggestions?
I play around with my ignition until I find the sweet spot. Then mark my damper for that much initial timing, then I can just set the timing and have it run great (12° with the change in gas in the last 2 years, I hate junk gas at $3 a gallon). Just back the timing off to 10° and you will be fine. 15° is to much advance with a stop dist. and towing anyway. After recurve you can run that much and more, but stock, no. Your dist rotor turns counterclockwise, so turning the dist. clockwise advances timing and counterclockwise retards. Towing heavy trailers requires conservative timing or you will damage your engine.
So, if I'm seeing this right, we need to retard the timing a bit.... right?.
The motor is far from stock.. and the last time it was tuned professionally at the shop (that rebuilt and recalibrated the distributor, as well as re-jetted the carb) they started out with the timing about 15 and tweaked from there.
I always use super... The Green Bean doesn't run on anything else! We backed the timing off to about 11 degrees and it seems perfect. Tomorrow will tell, however.... 200 miles of towing, about half of that in the mountains... Keep your fingers crossed, and pray to the truck gods that we have an uneventful trip!
One thing, check the upper bushing in the dizzy and make sure it's not too loose. That'll cause the dwell (and timing) to walk all over the place.
Take off the cap and rotor, rotate the engine far enough for the points to open and then push and pull on the dizzy shaft towards/away-from the points. If they open and close (or even come close to half-way closing) that dizzy is worn out.
Not that this is your problem, but it's always something to check before going nuts with dwell and timing. been there, done that.
On edit: Also rotate engine to where the points close, and then do the push-pull thing. If the shaft moves enough for the points to open, the dizzy is too worn.
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