I am going to lower my 69'! How many inches??? And how much might it cost??

 

10" drop, air bags, 26" gold spinners. $3000 in lowering, $10,000 in rims. hehe

 

First off, what are you looking for with the stance? is it hotrod, lowrider, something else?

What kind of wheels? or what kind of tires?

How much are you willing to spend on this?

Also, try searching this forum for lowered rigs, I'm pretty sure you'll find something.

Good luck.

 

Check out LMC Truck, they have some drop leaf and coil springs, both good for a 2" to a 4" drop. DJM Suspension makes some lowered I-Beams, for another 3". But 1970custom brings a good point, you have to know what look you are going for and what size wheels and tires as well as a budget. You can drop the rear 2" to level it for $200 or put it on 'bags for $5000-$8000.

 

Why not an IFS front and lowering blocks on the rear? You can put it in the weeds if you want to.

 

i am getting ready to drop my 68.... c-notch the rear frame section, flip the rear end on top of the leaf springs and put in 4 inch blocks....that should bring the rear down about 9 inches. as for the front thats a big mess.... i will need to get my front down 6 inches to get the truck level. we are going to remove the bump stops and cut a section of frame out there and replace it with heavy gauge tubing, box and plate that section of frame...this will allow for more i beam travel. by moving the spring perches up a bit i won't have to cut as much spring out saving some of the ride. once you cut the springs to get your desired elevation your wheels will be cambered in bad, we are going to check the degrees that it's cambered in and then we will have to bend the beams to get the camber back out to a desireable number. i am going to heat and bend the beams( heat the entire length of the beam and use a big area to bend. if you try to keep your bend in one tight spot you may crack the beam...they are cast. and we are going to plate the beams for extra strength. i have a professional to assist me with this project, a buddy that builds roll cages and race car chassis'. i will let you know when it's complete. it should put the rockers about 7 inches off the ground. this is the plan, i hope it works out to my advantage.

 

Interesting, sure am interested to hear how it comes out, and see some pics.

 

I would go with drop beams before I'd apply heat to them. They're supposed to be cold bent.

Here's some more interesting info...


Aligning the Twin I-beam suspension
One thing to always check on Ford Twin I-Beam suspensions is ride height. If the front tires show camber wear and the ride height is below specs, you can bet the springs are sagging. And since the springs play a critical role in determining ride height (which affects camber), it doesn’t make much sense to make a camber correction until the underlying problem has been fixed. The trick here is to replace or shim the sagging springs. If that fails to bring camber back within specs, you’ll have to do the following:

If the Twin I-Beam axles are the forged variety, which were used from 1965 through 1981, camber can be corrected by bending the axle with a hydraulic ram. To make a make a positive camber correction, a rigid work beam is slung under the axle from a pair of clevis blocks. A hydraulic ram is then placed under the middle of the axle. When pressure is applied, the ram bends the axle upward and tilts the knuckle down to increase camber. A slight amount of overbending is usually needed to compensate for spring back in the axle. A negative camber correction is made by removing the outboard clevis block and inserting a spacer between the work beam and axle. The hydraulic ram is then repositioned directly under the inner axle bushing. When pressure is applied, the work beam bends the outer end of the axle up which tilts the knuckle and decreases camber.

Another thing to watch out for on Ford F150 2WD pickups with the Twin I-Beam front suspension is rear ride height. Ford says any deviation in rear ride height with respect to stock ride height should be taken into account prior to aligning the front wheels. If the bed of the pickup sits higher or lower than stock because of helper or overload springs, or because of modifications that have been made to the vehicle (a wrecker, dumpster, towing a fifth wheel trailer, etc.), then the change in ride height and frame angle need to be computed to compensate for its affect on front caster and camber. Refer to a Ford manual for the ride height and frame angle caster/camber correction chart.

 

you definitely do not want to use heat to bend the beams. if you do you will be replacing them in short order. instig8tr is dead on.

 

Could you also move the coil buckets up on the frame?

 

Let me save you some trouble:
http://www.djmsuspension.com/Articles/DreamBeams.htm
i have a 1968 Ford Ranger (I need to update my pics since I installed the I beams) I have went air bags and they suck. If you go to my pics under my name you can see they way it was sitting with air bags. I could have went lower if I would have cut my inner fenders, but who in the hell would want to do that with one of these trucks! I actually lowered my truck 5 inches in the front and 6 in the back using these lowering i beams and rear lowering shackles. Very good ride for the stance it has. As far as costs, you would just have to get a quote from them. My truck is in storage right now but get back at me and I will let you know the tire size I am running as well. I know I am running a set of stock Ford 8 inch wheels all the way around with NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. I havent been on this site in a long time. I will try to get some pics of my truck this week or weekend and post them on here for ya to give you an idea.