Exhaust Recommendations
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
smokin' you wont really notice the drone in a factory system because the pipe is 12 or 14gauge, alot thicker than most people's 16 ga. piping. however i do that PSnut had it right with the stainless braid wiggler at the DP outlet, because that will completely eliminate the vibration of the engine after the downpipe.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by outdoormaniac
5" exhaust is insane IMO!
Also, will going to a 5" be hard on the turbo due to lack of back preassure?
Also, will going to a 5" be hard on the turbo due to lack of back preassure?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Why would you want backpressure? To keep from building boost quicker and/or raise EGTs? Am I missing something here?
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8,849
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by PSNut
I'm going to THIS guy for my SS braided pipe eventually.
Thanks for the link i'll do a little research. This is all a learning process for me..while I know a little bit about exhaust systems this is my first diesel system ...
yall are very helpful. Anything ever happens to the Stroke I know ill be okay, I have too many damn good self-made experts on my side!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
ooh.. flattering... 
PSnut, that is exactly what im thinking. i am going to get one of those when i go all out on my exhaust system soon. i wonder if that can be used with heat wrap around it, im sure it will torque inside heat wrap, right? i saw on the "ultra-flex" category he had three different lengths in 4" ID, 10,12,14". would 10" suffice in this instance? i could use accu-seal clamps to bolt up to the rest of the exhuast system, since it will be custom from there on out. with placement of this right at the downpipe outlet, do you think that the temps will be over 500* on the actual metal? i am going to be heat wrapping my downpipe, possibly this, and i have ceramic paint for the exhaust system under the truck, and splitter pipes, and it is good for 500*. i was thinking of painting up to what gets to 500* and wrapping the rest. im thinking i can paint aft of the transmission cross member, which is right at the end of the flex coupler. do you have an idea how much that stuff costs? im guessing $100 for the 4'' x10''?
PSnut, that is exactly what im thinking. i am going to get one of those when i go all out on my exhaust system soon. i wonder if that can be used with heat wrap around it, im sure it will torque inside heat wrap, right? i saw on the "ultra-flex" category he had three different lengths in 4" ID, 10,12,14". would 10" suffice in this instance? i could use accu-seal clamps to bolt up to the rest of the exhuast system, since it will be custom from there on out. with placement of this right at the downpipe outlet, do you think that the temps will be over 500* on the actual metal? i am going to be heat wrapping my downpipe, possibly this, and i have ceramic paint for the exhaust system under the truck, and splitter pipes, and it is good for 500*. i was thinking of painting up to what gets to 500* and wrapping the rest. im thinking i can paint aft of the transmission cross member, which is right at the end of the flex coupler. do you have an idea how much that stuff costs? im guessing $100 for the 4'' x10''?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Kris,
I talked with the owner and he said around $100 but sometimes it takes two units he said. He metioned how fickle the PSD is with drone. I was sizing up
a spot right after my DP bend and running i believe a 16" piece using the awesome SS band clamps for a quick and easy install.
Nut
I talked with the owner and he said around $100 but sometimes it takes two units he said. He metioned how fickle the PSD is with drone. I was sizing up
a spot right after my DP bend and running i believe a 16" piece using the awesome SS band clamps for a quick and easy install.
Nut
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
my clamps will be painted or wrapped, so SS wont matter to me. but you have the SS exhaust so it will look nice. 16" may be the ticket for me, im only going to be using one. i dont need all the drone to go away. but it comes in pretty authorative at 2000 rpm and stops around 2200.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
Originally Posted by Smokin'
Why stainless? Stainless doesn't rust like your basic exhaust... my last truck had an exhaust system on it that was completely rusted after about a year and a half, making it suseptible to exhaust leaks...I guess Colorado is just the perfect climate for it. I don't like doing things just to have to go back and do it again a year later.
Another question...what are the arguments for a 5" instead of 4"? Seems 4" provides plenty of good airflow.
Another question...what are the arguments for a 5" instead of 4"? Seems 4" provides plenty of good airflow.
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8,849
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by aklim
I'm in WI and we have a little road on our salt. I haven't seen a 409 staineless rust yet. The only difference I can see between a 304 and 409 stainess is the price and the the fact it is shiny when you look underside of the truck with a good flashlight. 409 and 304 are both grades of SS. 304 is 2 grades away from surgical, IIRC.
This explains women and why men are worried about the size of their "pipe".
It would be a perfect world if more men were like my truck! Handsome, big, reliable, tough...never complains...just sits out in front of the house and waits for me to come back. -sigh-
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
Originally Posted by Smokin'
Aklim - Here in Colorado (due to the snow) DOT uses a large amount of mag chloride on the roads. While it's debated whether or not this stuff harms metal objects, I have no doubt. It takes it's toll on the undercarriage of a vehicle, especially exhaust. If I can go for a higher quality metal, i'll do it.
As for this, you men have nothing to worry about. As a woman I am fully aware that a man is nothing like my truck. Even if my truck had a large 5" exhaust that made it look like a hung bull on steroids, it's not as though I would be inspecting a man on a first date looking for the equivalent.
It would be a perfect world if more men were like my truck! Handsome, big, reliable, tough...never complains...just sits out in front of the house and waits for me to come back. -sigh-
As for this, you men have nothing to worry about. As a woman I am fully aware that a man is nothing like my truck. Even if my truck had a large 5" exhaust that made it look like a hung bull on steroids, it's not as though I would be inspecting a man on a first date looking for the equivalent.
It would be a perfect world if more men were like my truck! Handsome, big, reliable, tough...never complains...just sits out in front of the house and waits for me to come back. -sigh-
What is the difference between grades of stainless (304, 321, 409…..?)
- Without getting into the specifics of metallurgical properties, 409 is what is typically used on OEM applications. It has fair corrosion resistance, is magnetic due to the high metallic content, but is a less expensive material than 304. 409 is not an ideal material for a performance/restoration exhaust system because it will turn color (brownish/rust) from being exposed to the atmosphere without ever being run. For OEM’s who never care what the exhaust system looks like, it is a decent material that will last long enough to get past the warranty period. 304 stainless has much better corrosion resistance and a lower metallic content than 409. 304 will not turn color from sitting exposed to the atmosphere, and will only discolor slightly from getting extremely hot. The best thing about 304 is that you can maintain it with a scotch bright pad if you ever spill oil on it or have it discolor. Stainless Works only uses Everlast 304 stainless, which is a premium mil spec grade of stainless that is slightly more expensive than standard stainless, but is processed much more closely and is more consistent.
Guess I deserve a
for thinking that? 
You want a Rottweiler for that.
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