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With all of the recent posts about changing/poping spark plugs, I want to kinda get a consensus as to at what mileage I should change my plugs at. I have a 2001 Excursion with ~49k miles on it. I want to do it myself, as the dealer will charge me $200. Is there anything I need to be concerned with?.
I have 47K on mine and I'm glad I changed plugs when I did as #9 was finger tight.
I either prevented a costly blow our or now have an early diagnosis that one of my heads will be needing an insert.
Get an inch-pound torque wrench that can go up to 250 in/lbs or so. Use the 14ft/lbs as a guide, which is 168 in/lbs. The reason I'm saying get an inch-pound torque wrench is so that it's as accurate as possible. A 150ft/lbs torque wrench won't be very accurate at 14ft/lbs.
Other than that, within 3-4 years of manufacture, I'd be sure to take out the stock plugs and either replace them, or clean them up real good and use anti-sieze when re-assembling.
The reason I quote an elapsed time instead of mileage is because the corrosion we are all worried about takes about that long (or even less) to start.
My wifes Expy had a COP go bad,,I pulled the CP and plug and the plug look almost as good as new at 120k miles..These motors will go 100k like the book says with no problem,, however yes check the plugs, anti-sieze them and retorque..
Get an inch-pound torque wrench that can go up to 250 in/lbs or so. Use the 14ft/lbs as a guide, which is 168 in/lbs. The reason I'm saying get an inch-pound torque wrench is so that it's as accurate as possible. A 150ft/lbs torque wrench won't be very accurate at 14ft/lbs.
Other than that, within 3-4 years of manufacture, I'd be sure to take out the stock plugs and either replace them, or clean them up real good and use anti-sieze when re-assembling.
The reason I quote an elapsed time instead of mileage is because the corrosion we are all worried about takes about that long (or even less) to start.
To be really ****, do it at 2 years.
Which means you are way overdue
Ok, I'm convinced. I have a really good Snap on in/lb torque wrench, so I'm all set there. I think the plugs are the 5/8" right?, and the Motorcraft pt# is AGSF22WM.
Throwing away good plugs is just a waste of money, take them out check the gap, anti-siez and torque them back in...As you can see in that post biz talked to ,,plugs are good..
Last edited by Houndog101; Jun 13, 2006 at 03:07 PM.
Reason: me
that one as a old time dealer tech. i have to disagree with you marine. not a lot just a little. as you state the plug looks great gap may be within and just look like it needs regaping. but inside the resistor starts breaking down and causeing a mild missfire or there is a very light yellow discoloration around the thread case to porclen means the seal is starting to leak.
my other reason is with the amount of labor to remove them esp. on the back holes. why put the old ones back in for the sack of how much cash? not that much.
i go by how the motor acts at idle a mild miss means problems. could be a plug breaking down or a injector not spraying correctly.[on my own it has turned out 2 times to be a clogging fuel filter] 2 times in 20k
another is yes change the boots . napa. blue streak and who knows have them at a cheap price. just don't go to ford.to much money. with them the boot starts to devolope small cracks and expands, dosn't seal as well as new around the plug letting in condensation. they also have a second resistor inside them along with the contacts that get loose from the voltage passing though them and age.
a few bucks for not doing a hard job a second time .is it really worth the cost?
don't get me wrong here. i just hate doing a job two times and always hated comebacks at work. guess thats why a lot of my old customers want to come to my house for their car repairs now. something the military pushes into our heads PRIDE.
they are coil on plug just they use a 2 piece coil pack one part is a resisitor/ boot and the main coil pack. instead of thowing away a coil bcause it no longer seals properly you though away the part that wears from engine heat and condensation.
i sure prefer it that way. spend 6 or 7 bucks for the boot then how much for a full coil pack?
I have a 2000 model V10. Motorcraft says I need the AWSF22E plugs but the newer models used the AGSF22WM plugs. Will the AG's fit in the older trucks and is there a benefit? I am doing a plug change shortly.
I have a 2000 model V10. Motorcraft says I need the AWSF22E plugs but the newer models used the AGSF22WM plugs. Will the AG's fit in the older trucks and is there a benefit? I am doing a plug change shortly.
Thanks.
My 2001 is calling out to use the AGSF22WM plugs. Also, I can get them at Murrays discount auto for $2.69/ea. WAY cheaper that the prices you guys are quoting from the Ford dealer.