Changing spark plugs - when??
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: north west new jersey
check out walley world and use autolight. motorcrafts twins under a different name . cost wise their price is ok, same goes for oil filters why spend 7 or 8 bucks at the dealer when walley has then for $3.29 here for the very same motorcraft fikter. now fram filters unless it's not the chain store numbers i would use the upper class ones for racing if i could not get motorcraft.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by hickoryford
I have a 2000 model V10. Motorcraft says I need the AWSF22E plugs but the newer models used the AGSF22WM plugs. Will the AG's fit in the older trucks and is there a benefit? I am doing a plug change shortly.
Thanks.
Thanks.
biz
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2003 F250 SD SC 142" XLT FX4 V10 Auto 4x4 3.73s
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Posting Guru
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From: Michigan
Ok, I've procrastinated eneough!!. I am going to do my plug change tonight after work. I've got the plugs, anti-seize, dielectric grease, and all the tools (inc. in/lb torque wrench). I even went so far as to go over and talk to one of our engine builders that works for my co. about it. He actually has a V10 on a stand w/ the heads removed. It must have been a newer one, because the heads had about 6 threads cut into the spark plug holes. Anyway he told me that there really shouldn't be any issue, and about the only "trick" he could give me was to do it with the engine a little warm, ~200 degrees, and if any plug seemed to be turning out not so smooth to shoot a little penitrant around the threads. Also, to take it easy with the anti-seize. Other than that, he said it just is the access to the plugs that is a PITA. I will report back tomorrow a.m. with results.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: KS
Originally Posted by rlh68050
Ok, I've procrastinated eneough!!. I am going to do my plug change tonight after work. I've got the plugs, anti-seize, dielectric grease, and all the tools (inc. in/lb torque wrench). I even went so far as to go over and talk to one of our engine builders that works for my co. about it. He actually has a V10 on a stand w/ the heads removed. It must have been a newer one, because the heads had about 6 threads cut into the spark plug holes. Anyway he told me that there really shouldn't be any issue, and about the only "trick" he could give me was to do it with the engine a little warm, ~200 degrees, and if any plug seemed to be turning out not so smooth to shoot a little penitrant around the threads. Also, to take it easy with the anti-seize. Other than that, he said it just is the access to the plugs that is a PITA. I will report back tomorrow a.m. with results.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Vancouver Wash USA
<GULP> I guess I'd better think about changing mine then,,, 128K. But shoot, my big, long fingers work so little in the confines of that van's doghouse. And she still runs so well. Oh brother, I've been saying for a year I'm gonna bear down and git er done, aaarrrggghhhhh. I'd rather have a root canal. Any E-series folk do theirs themselves ?
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I was taught to change out plugs on aluminum heads only when cold. And since I have done it this way for 20 years or so I would think it was good advice as I have never had any issues that lead to a comeback concerning spark plugs.
Now, not every engine can be ice cold but if it is your truck, and your doing this at home, I would suggest leaving this job for a weekend morning when the engine is cold.
Less chance to pull threads out this way. And accurate torque can be applied to the plugs.
I have never paid as much attention to the finer details of swapping plugs until I got my 6.8.
Now, not every engine can be ice cold but if it is your truck, and your doing this at home, I would suggest leaving this job for a weekend morning when the engine is cold.
Less chance to pull threads out this way. And accurate torque can be applied to the plugs.
I have never paid as much attention to the finer details of swapping plugs until I got my 6.8.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
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From: Southern Colorado
It's a shame (bad engineering) that the rubber boots on the plug seals don't actually keep any dirt out of the plug holes.
Given that my plugs were surrounded by piles of fine silt/sand, I'd strongly recommend blowing the plug holes out after pulling the COP unit, and then again after slightly loosening the plug.
Steve
Given that my plugs were surrounded by piles of fine silt/sand, I'd strongly recommend blowing the plug holes out after pulling the COP unit, and then again after slightly loosening the plug.
Steve
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