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It is the black plastic container before the H/P pump. Do you have dual tanks too?
Are you sure that was the proper way to test the L/P pump? I read in another forum that it works by resistance. I could be wrong. I hope someone has the correct method out there for testing the L/P pump.
Is your fuel pump relay ok too?
Try to find out about the TPS. throttle position sensor. (computer diagnosis).
I had that changed too. big$$$$.by the dealer, go figure.
To check the FPR remove the vacuum line from the barb. Check for fuel in the vacuum line or even the smell of raw fuel at the end of the barb on the FPR. There should be NO fuel present on the "dry" side of the regulator. If there is fuel present, the FPR needs replacement.
If this problem is killing the truck, there should be EEC-IV computer fault codes being generated that will make diagnosing the problem a LOT simpler. Pulling the codes is simple and will eliminate chasing things that MIGHT be the problem.
Last edited by greystreak92; Jun 22, 2006 at 12:43 PM.
Today I got a fuel pressure test gage and a code reader from my friend.I will check it on sat or sunday and will get back to you guys with the results.Aloha
You dont need to pull the tank to test the in tank pump. Just pull the line behind the hi-presure pump. If you dont get lots of fuel when you turn the key, you know the problem is back there. I've had problems with the reservoir. You can take it apart. But, it is so tight your half afaid the plastic will bust before it unscrews. Also it is dificult to put back together because the o-ring gets streched. it is where you indicated. Some of them have a filter in them (but not all).
Well, I checked the fuel pressure today with a test gage and it kept the pressure up so it is getting fuel. I use a code reader and got these codes back,done with key on engine off mode-52 koeo, 18 cm and 33 cm. Hope you guys can help Thank you, Aloha
I went back to try and start my bronco but it wouldnt.Now it seemed that it was a electronic problem,so I pulled off the distributer and low and behold, there was carbon buildup on the end. Not you normal deposits, I mean it was packed on the end of the rotor. I scraped it off and sanded it off. I put it all back together and it started right up and runs perfectly now. I should have check it earlier but it seemed more like a fuel problem. All that hassle and stressing over it and it was something so simple, I was getting ready to part it out or just sell it as is.I will post some pic`s of my bronco later tonight. I want to thank all of you guys for helping me out and I will let you know if anything else comes up....Aloha
when I read your earlier post about having positive fuel pressure, I thought about an electrical problem. I'm glad you got the Bronco running. Post the pix, and maybe when I get back to the Big Island, you can show me some trails!
At least you know how your fuel system works! I hope you replace your ignition parts soon too!
Hello there, well today I took my bronco to town today and guess what, yep it started to bog out and then it die. I tried to start it but it just wouldnt run, so I open the hood and move some wires around by the dist. and the coil. I then tried to start it and it work,started right up. I drove it back home with no problems and opened the hood again while it was running and took a good look at where I move the wires. The coil have a couple of 3 small gauge wires that come out of it and the connection on the left side it has 2 wires and one of the wire was out of the connecter and when I move it to the side the motor died. I reconnected the wire and it started right up, one of the codes that I pulled up said that the tach was ground so I guess by it being disconnected it showed up. It rounds good now and I hope that was the problem. The other codes said the the power steering pressure switch was open and the other was that the egr are was open or close. I will have to look into that next.....Aloha
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