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i found out my lift pump went bad so i bought an electric pump instead. now it is only rated at 2-3.5 psi. will this be enough to run the 6.9. i will take it back if it won't
You need.........Pressure Rating: 4 lb - 6 lb .......Gallons Per Hour: 23 to match the manual lift pump. If you put an electric on remove the manual lift pump and get a Chebby Big Block blockoff plate for the hole.....
Some folks use the Holley red from Summit, it has 5psi but 70gph so you do a lot of unnecessary fuel filtering.......
I would return it.
The GPH number is also critical, since the fuel system is open to the return lines.
Not enough pressure and GPH means fuel starvation at heavy throttle application.
i exhanged it for the 5-7 psi one. i did not know they had one. it is the Mr. Gasket pump. it makes the truck run good now. still though i can't get it to crank when cold without ether. i changed return lines,o rings, removed the return from the filter to the injector return lines. the pump is 3 inches away from the fuel selector valve. the seal on the filter looks good. i have not yet bypassed the lift pump though. it is still pumping through that. i will delete that soon. it is not leaking fuel into the oil. i don't understand it. it may be the the original lift pump that just partially died is sucking air. i have know idea. any other ideas on this one.
If the glow plugs are burnt out, the only thing the push button is doing is closing the relay.
You need to check the glow plugs.
Remember they heat to almost white hot temps every time you turn the key ON.
Auto test light with the ground clip on a positive battery terminal.
Remove the connector from each glow plug and touch the tip of the tester to the connector on the glow plug.
If it lights, the plug is good.
If it does not light, replace the plug with a Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9 glow plug. (this glow plug is for the 87 and later system, 86 and earlier use ZD 1A)
Don't use those other brands, they are trouble.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Jun 12, 2006 at 10:05 PM.
ok i tested them and not one lit up. i have used the block heater before to help out and it did not help. are the glow plugs going to make that much more of a difference to start it up without ether. when cold. on the dodge sometimes i don't wait for the glow plugs and it cranks right up. guess that is because it is a cummins
What you have to understand is diesel fuel auto ignition temperature is around 480 degrees. You have one compression stroke to get from air temp to 480 degrees in the cold cylinder before it will fire. Glow plugs put heat into the cylinder to help it get to 480 much faster, saves the batteries, saves the starter.
The dodge don't have glow plugs, it uses a heater in the intake to heat the air. Same principle, different method.
Does your block heater work? They fail as well.
Mine starts good down to about 10 below with just the glow plugs.
yes it does, i hear it bubbling and it warms. i will get those plugs one of these days. but i still got that stalling problem. the other day i was testing it out after i put the pump on and it was running good and all of a sudden it died. i know my charging system is not working but how much power does the fuel solinoid use in the IP. i tried to recrank it but it would not because the batteries went dead. but they had enough to spin the motor over 1/4 of the way. you think that there is not enough power for the fuel solinoid to stay open after a few minutes of driving/idling. can i take the alternator off and get it tested or does it need to be running to be tested. i would rather take it off and put it on a machine.
ok i got an update and it is far from good news. the glow plugs were coming out fine and i had one almost out and i heard a snap. i got it out and the heating element tip of the plug was broken off. about 1/4 inch of it. so damn. i am going to try a telescoping magnet and if that doesn't work i may try a shop vac. i am so screwed. i did not want to pull a head.
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