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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

replacing the rag joint

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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 10:34 AM
  #1  
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Post replacing the rag joint

was replacing the rag joint on my '68 manual steering gear yesterday- when i noticed that the coupling attached to the gear seems to be able to slide forward and back (just a little) on the input shaft of the steering gear. sort of like the coupling is in a groove on the shaft.

so, when i replaced the rag joint, i loosed the bolts on the column, and pulled the column into the cab a bit to take the play out of the loose coupling. which, in turn, sort of pulled the rag joint out of shape.

is this normal, or should the rag joint be perfectly flat after installation? also, does the play in the coupling sound right?

thanks,
sam
 
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Old Nov 25, 2001 | 11:48 AM
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From: Inthepast
replacing the rag joint

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
If the cab mounts aren't perfect or are out of alignment this will in turn cause the rag joint to deform when installed. The amount of deformity will depend on the level of the alignment problem. There should be no movement of the rag joint coupling on the steering gear shaft.

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Old Nov 26, 2001 | 07:35 PM
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Post replacing the rag joint

Sam,

I know this is a little late, but I just redid the shaft in my '69. There is a bearing that fits in a cup on the end at the rag joint and into that there is a split plastic bushing and a clamp. There is also a bearing and a bushing at the steering wheel that the spring presses into place. With these you set a lenght/endplay that matched the distance between the two bearings on the shaft compared to the tube lenght.

The bummer is that you can't set the tube and shaft up outside the truck then install it as a whole on an automatic, the shift arm won't fit thru the hole in the firewall with the shaft in the tube.

I set the rag joint so that it is flat at the coupling and then lightly tightened the clamp, then you have to go to the wheel end and adjust the gap between the turn signal housing and the steering wheel by moving the steering colum tube in and out if you removed it, this also changes the pressure put on the plastic and bearing. Be advised that as you tighten the steering wheel nut that the spring locks the plastic bushing on the shaft and then doesn't want to move. It takes some playing with it to get the way it should be. One other thing, it's easier to do it with the drivers side wheel removed and on a stand.

Jim
 
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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 04:29 AM
  #4  
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From: Savannah US
replacing the rag joint

Your best bet is too get rid of the rag joint set-up. If you don't mind spending a little extra money that is. They make aftermarket U-joint type steering shafts that completely eliminate the rag-joint in favor of a U-joint. They are FAR more superior (stronger,more durable,and not a pain in the @$#) to the old rag-joints. GOOD LUCK...
 
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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 03:29 PM
  #5  
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replacing the rag joint

 
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