Found the knock!!!!
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From: Yelm,Washington
Redmanbob, I checked out your gallery the other day..One of my search's on this subject led me there...I was very much wondering how long was your engine run while the "extra" spacer was in there?Mine drove about a mile, up hill last August by p.o. And I ran it about 20-30 min. in my driveway.Reving occasionally just to make it chatter..She smokes a little anyway so I'm considering new lifters and push rods while I'm inside changing valve guide seals, head and intake gaskets. Do you suppose thats a good idea?, Is it OK to change lifters and pushrods with out doing anything to the cam? Can you suggest anything else that I "may as well" do since I'm there?
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From: Long Island USA
I'd certainly check the lifters and see if they are wearing wrong. If they are, that cam's toast.
If they look all nice and shiny and no score marks with a slight circular wear pattern (highly doubtful at this point), leave it alone.
However, the lifters and cam are setup in such a way that the lifters spin as the cam turns. If the cam was that far back either they wouldn't spin at all (because the ramp was off the edge of the lifter) or the center of the lifter wasn't riding on the center of the cam lobe.
There is a small chance it's OK though. Check out the bottoms of the lifters (and mark each one so they can be put back in the right spot - never mix old lifters).
If they look all nice and shiny and no score marks with a slight circular wear pattern (highly doubtful at this point), leave it alone.
However, the lifters and cam are setup in such a way that the lifters spin as the cam turns. If the cam was that far back either they wouldn't spin at all (because the ramp was off the edge of the lifter) or the center of the lifter wasn't riding on the center of the cam lobe.
There is a small chance it's OK though. Check out the bottoms of the lifters (and mark each one so they can be put back in the right spot - never mix old lifters).
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Mine was just run in the driveway maybe total of 10 min.. no load //was freeking out till I got a tip from Highball on the spacer - felt like a jacka$$ as I read it on the instructions and just forgot it..I'd pull the lifters and get a look at the cam through the holes for sure since your that far in..as Krewat said keep them organized or your going to be in need of new ones for sure. Look at the edge of the toe for a groove sliced outa the side / not on top of the toe - from the side..I had two journals with the same thing but nat as big a issue as the lifter seat
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From: "Islander"
Even Crane Cams state you can add new lifters to a old cam, never old lifters on a new cam. If you mix up old lifters with old cam you must install new lifters. Just think what the cam and dizzy gear mesh is doing with the cam pushed back, new wear pattern? To add new lifters to a old cam is like putting on dirty socks the next day. JMO.
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From: Yelm,Washington
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
To add new lifters to a old cam is like putting on dirty socks the next day. JMO.
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I actually had the engine running with the valve covers off while trying to diagnose the problem. The push rods were turning..Some very fast and a few others not fast at all...I'm going to take a look at them anyway just for curiosity..Besides, I have to trck down the smoke out of the tail pipe....Probably do what krewat said...just leave em alone...so long as they dont look to terrible...I do know that my push rods are at least a little bent...Rolled several of em on a piece of glass and they wobbled..every one I tested..about five on the right side is all I tested..Should I at least change these?
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From: "Islander"
Replace any bent pushrods they are cheap. Years ago with little money I would thump 'em straight with a rubber hammer. You must be running unbrellas. I would use a valve spring compressor and change them, check valve stem to guide clearance while your at it as well oil return drains for broken umbrella pieces blocking oil return flow. Oil smoke from valve guides or rings? You run a compression check?
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From: Yelm,Washington
I did run a compression check...112 was my lowest reading...124 was my highest there was a 116, a couple of 121's a 114..Does that sound O.K? I read in another post where a guy was getting 150 psi..Makes me wonder about my compression.I did also find a couple of pieces of hard black rubber chunks, about the size of a dime, on top of the head around the valve springs...I'm pretty sure thats the umbrellas.
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From: "Islander"
Black pieces of rubber, yup old umbrella pieces. Make sure the drains at the ends of the heads are clear with no umbrella pieces blocking oil returns. Compression sounds low but even so that's ok, run it until it dies which could be 50K miles from now. Different motors, cams and compression testers will yield different comression numbers, I hold a tight range of 184 psi on a 256K mile motor.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jun 12, 2006 at 11:28 PM.
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From: Yelm,Washington
Well, now ya got me wondering...I tested the comp. with a "push in" type tester that I have had for years and have never used..In fact, for the first few years I had it I didn't even know what it was..Anyway, I bought a junky screw in one at the swap meet this weekend for two bucks...I took that extra timing set back to NAPA today and if I would have thought of it, I would have just exchanged it for the nice new screw in tester..Instead I handed that cash and some more over to the lady at the dept. of licesing then over to state farm to give away more money. I swear I would have a fleet of ford trucks if the cost of ownership wasn't so expensive..Gonna slip out into the garage and re-test that comp..
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From: "Islander"
Those screw in testers with a hose will lower the readings as the hose volume is part of the combuston chamber. Did you get the motor hot and hold the throttle wide open when testing without washing the cylinder walls with fuel?
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From: Yelm,Washington
No I did not...In fact,the engine was cold and I didn't hold the throttle open.I guess I should have known there is a "correct way" to test compression. That screw in one I found at the swap meet doesn't have the right adapter to fit the 352 spark plug hole...I'm pretty sure I'm going to go buy a new one tomorrow.Do You recommend the "push and hold in" type oppose to the "screw in" type? I would really like to get an accurate read..
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From: "Islander"
I have a old Snap-On that you hold on with a rubber cone as we (dad and I) used it on VW's and Porsche's, it must be 40 years old, has been tested and comes up accurate every time. Yes a PITA at times spitting air in your face if you can't apply holding pressure.
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From: Yelm,Washington
I saw a really nice Snap-On one at a pawn shop just a few days before I bought this truck. Came with the hose, adapters and a tube with the rubber cone, all in a case for it seems like fifty bucks. Walked right by it. Swung thru there a couple days ago,gone of course. It just occured to me that when I looked at the tester kits the other day at NAPA, they had both the hose fittings and the rubber cone...I'll pick one up today..A good project for this evening.
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From: Yelm,Washington
Originally Posted by krewat
If you got 120 or so with the throttle plates closed, well, I gotta say that's pretty good 