Ignition?
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Ignition?
ok so my truck (1985 f- 150 w/ a 300)was running fine... when the fuel pump broke i replaced that and now the truck will turn over but doesnt start .. i poured some gas into the carb and nothing still any one think of a sloution. My dad thinks it might be the igniton because i may have bumped somehting or lossened something whuile installing the fuel pmp .but i have no clue how to verify that
any and all help is greatly appreciated
holy
any and all help is greatly appreciated
holy
Last edited by 4x4-Ford-4x4; Jun 3, 2006 at 03:30 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 830
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From: Indiana
Unhook the gas line from the carb and crank the motor over and see if is actually getting gas to the carb. Also try and spray some carb cleaner into the carb and see if it will run for a few seconds, then you know that it is a gas or carb problem. If not try checking to see if your actually getting spark to the spark plugs.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Franklin2 said this in another post but it seams to fit here for no spark.
“The first thing I would check is voltage at the coil + terminal. Before you go on a test run, get the wiring prepared so you can probe the + wire of the coil, with a good clean place on the engine block to hook the ground for the meter or testlight.
The next test would be to probe the negative (or "tach") terminal of the coil. Put the probe on the - terminal, and put the negative of the meter or testlight on the clean engine ground.
The coil is the last part of the ignition system besides the sparkplugs and sparkplug wires. What you are looking for is around 12 volts on the positive of the coil when the key is turned to run, and also when the key is in start.
If that is ok, then do the negative coil terminal test. What you should see here is the testlight or voltmeter blink on and off when the engine is cranked.
If you have + voltage at the coil, and the - of the coil voltage is blinking, then you should have spark”
I have also had the ICM on the Distributor go out while working on something else and cause this.
“The first thing I would check is voltage at the coil + terminal. Before you go on a test run, get the wiring prepared so you can probe the + wire of the coil, with a good clean place on the engine block to hook the ground for the meter or testlight.
The next test would be to probe the negative (or "tach") terminal of the coil. Put the probe on the - terminal, and put the negative of the meter or testlight on the clean engine ground.
The coil is the last part of the ignition system besides the sparkplugs and sparkplug wires. What you are looking for is around 12 volts on the positive of the coil when the key is turned to run, and also when the key is in start.
If that is ok, then do the negative coil terminal test. What you should see here is the testlight or voltmeter blink on and off when the engine is cranked.
If you have + voltage at the coil, and the - of the coil voltage is blinking, then you should have spark”
I have also had the ICM on the Distributor go out while working on something else and cause this.
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