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Electrical gremlin, please help!!!!!

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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:16 PM
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Electrical gremlin, please help!!!!!

I have a 1979 F100 302, I just put a new starter on it cuz when it gets hot it turned slow, ok, new starter is on, and I wasnt gettin anything when I tried to start it and I replaced the solenoid (its an oe lawn tractor one, with 2 top post, and 2 side post) now its still wont even click or make any noise, but when I turn the key to start position the brake light in the dash comes on, and I'm about to just rig up a push button start, but what I am askin is, what safety interlocks and whatever will make the truck not start, I know about the nuetral safety switch, but that was disconnected long ago, and what do the 2 small wires runnin to the solenoid do, I know one is for start, but is the other a ground or does it do something????????????
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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The S terminal - converts a small 12V electrical current through a solenoid to a terminal that allows a Large 12v higher amperage current to the starter when the key is turned to start.

The I terminal allows 12 volts of electrical current to run to the coil when the ignition key is turned to the start position,

Get the proper starter relay for that truck and get the battery checked.

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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:37 PM
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ok, so I must have somethin in the wirein harness messed up, cuz its actin goofy, if they were to be reversed, what would happen?????
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Those 2 wires S & I ?

The engine would try to start in the run position
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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i tried switchin em and still nothin, not even tryin to start @ all just the brake light in the dash,.........could it posibly be the key switch, perhaps????? @ this point I dunno, and I am supposed to b a mechanic, and I werk on this kinda stuff all day everyday, but when it comes to my own stuff sometimes I dunno
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Tractor Boy
but what I am askin is, what safety interlocks and whatever will make the truck not start, I know about the nuetral safety switch, but that was disconnected long ago
The NSS should be jumpered out if disconnected. My Haynes shows R-BL for the start circuit, with a parallel circuit to the module. In the start position there should be voltage on the R-BL wire for the start circuit, P-W for the brake warning lamp test circuit. It could be the ignition switch-they wear out also.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 05:11 AM
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Jump the battery + to the S terminal and the solenoid (relay) should activate. If it does not get another (proper) solenoid. If it does then the problem is elsewhere in the wiring. Always use the proper electrical parts for replacements unless you REALLY know what you are doing with electrical systems which does not seem to be the case here.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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okey dokey, I'm gonna try and replace the switch today then, thanx yall
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:28 AM
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Replace the starter relay first (you said the one you have was for a lawn mower)

The Brake warning light comes on automatically with the key in run, then goes out after the dedicated time.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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mine actually only comes on in start then after its runnin 4 bout 10 secs it goes out with the buzer
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 02:30 AM
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Zactly... That's how you know the warning lamp works, and will light up when something is wrong with the brakes.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 06:32 AM
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well, it does need a new brake pressure differential valve, but for now they werk enough to drive, findin one for cheap is hard
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 11:01 AM
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Yes, key to Start... Light comes on ..then goes out

If you just turn the key to Run (without going to start),the light stays on that is a problem.


My Quote:
The Brake warning light comes on automatically with the key in run, then goes out after the dedicated time.

This should have said: with key from the start then to run...the light goes out ..........
 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Jun 4, 2006 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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well I found out y it keeps dyin on me lately, combination of water and dirt in the gas and alternator not chargin, so thats y it runs good then acts horrible and quickly dies, as for the not starting, I'm gonna replace the switch and hope for the best
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractor Boy
as for the not starting, I'm gonna replace the switch and hope for the best
LMAO!!!! Still don't wanna trace wires? I find that if I keep my hair cut real short, it's impossible to pull out. LOL

Oh well, while you are picking up the igntion switch grab the correct solenoid, make sure the battery is fully charged.

Good luck, Mike
 
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