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Electrical gremlin, please help!!!!!

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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:35 AM
  #16  
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I'll test them with the meter today, thas all I can do, cept light it on fire
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tractor Boy
well I found out y it keeps dyin on me lately, combination of water and dirt in the gas and alternator not chargin, so thats y it runs good then acts horrible and quickly dies, as for the not starting, I'm gonna replace the switch and hope for the best
Multiple problems, require resolving one problem at one time and money allocations.

If the source of dirty gas is coming from the gas tank, drop the tank and flush it out, and put new gasoline.

Before replacing any charging parts, clean all battery cables and check ground on engine. check the fusible links by the starter solenoid. Make sure the links are not burned. Most auto parts stores can test the alternator.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:45 AM
  #18  
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Uncle Buck forget to include reading my signature
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:17 PM
  #19  
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sorry Mil1ion, every dime is goin into my truck and that means its not gettin thrown away (long as it stays all FORD) well, the alt is only puttin out 6.14 volts DC @ idle, not enough for me, so I asked NAPA to send me some more parts, like new battery cables(my ground cable from the battery to the block is help together with a hose clamp, lol the others r rotted) and a 95 amp 1 wire alternator, and as for the gas, I'll never get gas @ the quicky mart again, its full of water and my fule filter is caked from fine red dirt and sand...........hmmmmmmmmmmmm, hope it didnt get into my carb
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:36 PM
  #20  
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The fuel filter should of caught most of the particles. I'm sure some made it to the carburator, but nothing to worry about, unless, the fuel filter keep plugging up, then you'll definitely have to drop, flush and refill the tank.

One wire GM alternator isn't a Ford part. But I quess it will work. The one wire rigs really don't last that long. Those GM alternator burn out.

Keep us posted.....
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Jun 5, 2006 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:55 PM
  #21  
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ok, if i find one that fits i will try it and c how long it lasts, but droppin the tank is on the agenda for after my national guard AT, i leave for that the 10th and come back the 30th, so it may have to wait, and btw, 2morrow is my birthday, can anyone guess my age???
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
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Happy 20th birthday tomorrow Tractor boy!
Dak
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 07:28 PM
  #23  
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DANGIT!!!!!!!! how'd u know?????? thanx
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 08:15 AM
  #24  
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Happy birthday,
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #25  
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Quote:
well, the alt is only puttin out 6.14 volts DC @ idle, not enough for me,

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Poor test

The VR doesn't kick in until 800-900 rpm,

Re-test the alternator at 1000 rpm
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #26  
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Wow what a hack. After 30 years of this stuff no wonder I cant find a truck that hasnt been hacked to pieces and put together with mismatched parts. If the engine cranks slow when warm check you battery voltage. If its ok then your timing is too far advanced. Stop complaining about how much money you dump into your truck. Its your own fault you replace parts that arent broken. Not to mention repairing any damage you create by using mismatched parts.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 04:41 PM
  #27  
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actually today I replaced a few things with the correct parts, it now turns over excellent, it was the starter, replaced the alternator and its showin usable voltage, replaced my inition/key switch, did not solve my not starting problem, replaced battery cables and solenoid (this time its the correct one) and still not solved the problem, altho it does seem to run a lil better, but still turn the key to start and just get that stupid brake light, what have I not checked, replaced, or tried that I need to focus my attention on????????????? I'm about to transfer VIN stickers and tags to my other one and just hope I dont get caught
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 06:09 PM
  #28  
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You need to follow that S terminal wire back to the ignition switch to see where it is broken contact.

You have a multi-meter right?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 08:09 PM
  #29  
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yup, i do and yes i will, i have it in the truck, is it the red wire to the solenoid or the brown one???
 
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 01:23 AM
  #30  
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It's the red one. The brown wire is how the ignition gets power while the starter is cranking.
The Red/Blue wire is the same at the NSS and ignition switch as well.
The Yellow wire at the switch is power in. Somewhere in the harness it changes to Black/Yellow. If your truck has the warning lights instead of gauges, the Black/Yellow wire has a fuseable link at the battery side of the solenoid.
 
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