Thanks for viewing my gallery. Well, knowing others have long-term projects makes me feel better.

Tents probably aren't allowed where I am, but the neighborhood I live in dates back to a little before 1938 or so. It has some outdated codes on the books no longer enforceable and otherwise I'm somewhat lucky in that right now.

I put plywood down on the bottom so it stays relatively dry and tables and tools are covered with plastic.

You can see why, though, that spreading things out has a somewhat political cost at home and with my neighbors, so I try to keep things out of site as much as possible.

I couldn't move the bed with the two kids who helped, but I hope to later.

I think mine's a mileage maker too. I thought 3:05 but 3:07 may be right. I'll check that but I think it was you when project started that said the Camper Specials did that for economy on trips with the load of a camper.

 

Your rating plate should show what axle you have. I don't have the codes for a 79 but you can plug them into that VIN decoder on Mil1ion's page. Info is in the FAQ thread in 73-9.

 

wow, i just looked at your gallery. the 2wd f-250. i didn't know 2wd f-250's had coil springs in the front. i was under the impression that all 250's were leaf sprung. now i can see why the fenderwell exits would be out of the question. thanks for the good pics, very informitive.

 

Torque, I found my notes on the truck. What I have written down is 3.07 d8ta-afa 603899-1 with Dana 61 circled (free floating axle?). I have a question mark on "10 bolt?" My truck is a '79 F250 Super Cab Camper Special. It GVW is 8100. Sound about right?

So, looks like I have that highway gear, and if I do, it's a good thing 'cause from all accounts this hoss is going to be thirsty.

I appreciate the comments on my gallery Sparky. I hope to add more as I go. I'm going to check out the exhaust side and see what I've got. I posted some ques in there but I've not got a response. If my bed has a heat shield welded on the bottom where the muffler runs, I'll need one similarly run for duals, right? Else I'll be cooking whatevers in the bed?

 

sorry guys, i started this post about headers for a 400. Most replies here are about axels and gearing. Whats up? Anyway i have solved the "Which headers to buy for a 1967 f100 400 2wd question! And the answer is "DynoMax headers for a 1978 f150 400 2wd". BUT they are not an exact fit.The drivers side is the closest to fitting, {especially if you have power steering as i do}
there is one outer tube that has to be flattened about one quarter of an inch to clear the steering box.then just bolt it in.

Now to the passenger side. After the old manifold is removed, remove the starter also. You have no choice but to remove the starter to get the header in. Next is to unbolt the passenger side motor mount and raise the passenger side of the motor until the bolt is about to come out of the mount and stop. Now you can get the header in, but it wont line up with the ports. while the header is partially in positon, mark the frame where the headers are hitting. I had to cut about a 3quarter inch strip about 4 inches long out of the frame and about a quarter inch out of the motor mount perch to get the headers to line up. Anyway my headers are in now and the truck goes in for new pipes in the morning. Its not a hard job putting headers in these trucks with 400's. It just takes time{about 2 hours it took me}. Anyway now everyone will know whats ahead of them when attempting this task.

As for the questions about the axels and gearing or whatever,I have no clue about this subject but i know those questions should not of been posted in a headers for 400 topic. Thanks for hijacking my post...

 

All that work you are talking about I also did with a set of Hedmen long tube Headers, only to find out that they ended about 4 to 6 inchs from the tranny cross member pointing right at it. Thats why I removed them and went with the Sanderson Shorties, they are a nice fit and easy to install and remove. Also for future work on the starter it is free and clear, so no issue with the headers in the way.

Hope your headers work out great for you.

I will post some pics of mine soon.

 

the dynomax headers clear the crossmember easily.the collectors are actually above the crossmember. they go straight back,not in an angle or anything...starter removal is easy also. alot easier than with the manifolds.

 

I followed your answer until the last reply. What does above the crossmmember mean? Is above toward the frame/unerbody? Or below it? It clears? Do you have to take the starter off to work on your headers? or vice versa, headers off to get to the starter?

Sorry about the hijacking your header post... we did get some good information from your questions. Seems alot is available for 4wd and not 2wd, as you said, they are available but must be modified somewhat.