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Hoping someone can help... first question for my '70 F100 Ranger Styleside 302 with 3 speed. so many things had been done to this one before I got it, I'm doing my best to get it back to stock. The engine was rebuilt before I bought it , although it has a 4 barrel intake and a mystery 4 barrel carb which no place could identify for me so I used an adapter kit and went back to the factory 2 barrel. It also has headers(unknown brand). It was 3 on the tree now it's 3 on the floor. I believe the power steering is not original... I ramble... my first question: someone added a sunpro 2 guage cluster (temp and oil pressure) but the original instrument cluster has both which currently are disconnected. I'd like to restore them to working and remove the sunpro. I've got the replacement switches from the local autozone and have found the electrical connection for the temp guage- but appearantly a reducer fitting was added to accomodate the sunpro connection. really tough to get to (and off) no luck yet. The oil pressure connection came off ok but since the power steering was added, doesn't seem to be enough room for new oil pressure switch plus I can't seem to locate the electrical connection. there is one female plug which is dangling but the connection is not near long to reach where the switch would be. suggestions? 2nd question: I just bought new axle pivot and radius arm bushings and I plan on new shocks, should I look into new coil springs and kingpins... the existing springs(obviously original) look ok but each has what looks like two adjustable bolt type spacers in the coil _ I guess for lift... it's a two wheel drive, by replacing part of the system will the other parts assume more stress or wear? I currently don't feel any steering problems and my gear box was replaced six months ago. new rims and tires about the same time, but at around 65mph I got a vibration(feels like right front). Just got the truck back about a month ago after being at Nashville auto diesel college for 4 months - body work, new cab mounts, bed repairs, and a three color paint job ( all for $1,300)...
more info on the oil pressure situation... I noticed today that when I truned on the ignition the in dash guage slowly pegged out on high and stayed there as long as the ignition was on, that tells me it works and that it grounded some where- just got to locate the connection...
You are right about it grounding out somewhere. Fix those gauges! I finally got all of mine working and it seems like that is what most people are impressed w/. They are shocked that all the original gauges work. Anyway, about the king pins. If you are putting on radius arm bushings, shocks, and pivot bushings, there is no point no to go ahead and pull the ibeam and take it somewhere to have them press out the old pins and throw in some new. I'm was chasing down a steering problem that ended up being king pins, but I did things one at a time. Wheel bearings, then bushings, then shocks, then.....you get the point. The stuff that was on there was original and was covered in junk. Once I had replaced those things, when I did finially pull the ibeam, it was a piece of cake. It only took me 15 mins to pull one beam. What I'm saying is go ahead and do it and you will know your front end upside down and backwards. Really you will. You will be on your back w/ your feet out from under the front bumper.
thanks for the suggestion, I got a buddy who said i could use his shop anytime- my concern is that I'm a daily driver and need to finish whatever I start. So with the right tools can a front end job: bushings, kingpins, shocks, springs, possibly tie rods, be done in a day?
Nylon bushings. 18000 miles lubed twice and not a bit of slack. Easy to install, reamer not required, and easy to replace if needed. You will need access to a press to get out the old king pins, bushings and pivot bushing shells. Some use poly bushings, I don't. This is a day job. You will need a 1-7/8th inch deep well socket, plenty of PB Blaster and gloves. I remove the disk/drum and pull the I beam spindle as a unit. After the old stuff is pressed off I but the beam in a bench vise and re-install the bushings, spindle, spindle bearing, shims and king pin. Line up the new king pin as you push it in so you can install the retainer bolt. Use one of the old pins to help line everything up. No slack between the spindle and I Beam NONE! But you should be able to swing it with your hands. It will loosen up a bit after installation.
William in Atlanta
thanks all for your input, I did the kingpin/tie rod test today. Jacked the passenger side first, spun the wheel -pretty smooth, a little dragging but most likely the brake shoes(drum all around), 12 and 6 nice and tight 1/4 to 1/2 play at most, 9 and 3, tight no play at all. Jacked up the left- spun smooth-just like the right, 12 and 6 about twice the play as the right, 9 and 3 no play at all. so there you have it... glanced at the pivot arm bushing and didn't really see one , so shocks , kingpins and bushings it is. Should I do the springs as well?
and regarding the oil pressure/temp guages, well I located the lead for the oil pressure guage- connected to the alternator??? no wonder is was pegging... had to loosen the belt/mount and add 1/2 inch lock washers as spacers on the power steering pump to get enough clearance for the new oil pressure switch, but got it in, and actually lined up my pulleys better... oil pressure (in dash original) works great... tomorrow the temp guage...
temp guage is now working, piece of cake once I drained a little off the radiator... about fifteen minutes of work. still have to locate a horn brush assembly to restore the horn(hopefully) then all electrical and guages will be functioning. By the way... I got a little light located lower left of metal dash just above the Ebrake release handle, replaced the bulb and it works... what is it? a courtesy light...? was there a cover for it?... it's pretty bright - bulb about the size of the tip of my pinky. anybody?
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