Thanks John, fuse 7 it is.

 

Well, I have fixed four separate problems (finally). When I was routing the P/LG jumper through the bellow in the door, I found the break in the wire so that problem is resolved. I suspect that this is a common place for wires to break since there is so many wires, so much movement, and potential for wear. Anyway, problem 1 solved.

When I got this electrical problem resolved, the door still did not fully unlock (but you could hear the actuator engage). I knew this was meant the actuator was bad and bought a replacement. Problem 2 solved.

Replacing the actuator did not resolve the problem with opening the door from the outside. So when I replaced the actuator per the instructions in this thread, I had to remove the latch and disengage the door handle. I drilled the rivets out of the door handle and removed the handle assembly. I found both of the torsion springs broke in the handle assembly. The local salvage yard had a color match for my Explorer but the springs on every handle on it were broke so I went to the dealer. He wanted $99 for an unpainted door handle (Pearl costs a lot to paint too). So I went over to the body shop and a tech there threw me a blue Ford handle and told me to go away. So I took it home, drilled out the rivets, and took out the springs. I drilled the rivets out of my handle and put the good springs on it and then put the thing back together with a 10mm bolt and a nylon lock nut (the nut has to be on the outboard side of the assy or the assy will not fit back through the door). Anyway, a little oil and patience, problem 3 solved (for free).

The door would still not unlock fully by pulling the outside handle. I played with the latch a little and noticed that the top latch "tooth" did not release when the handle pull was pulled (verified by comparing it to the passenger side which has not been a problem). I went back to the salvage yard and got a latch and replaced it. Problem 4 solved.

Thanks to all that helped solve all of my problems, especially 87 XLT. Word to the wise, be careful when a 17 year old tries to open a frozen power lock on an Explorer with a dead battery!

JW

 

Well, I have fixed four separate problems (finally). When I was routing the P/LG jumper through the bellow in the door, I found the break in the wire so that problem is resolved. I suspect that this is a common place for wires to break since there is so many wires, so much movement, and potential for wear. Anyway, problem 1 solved.

When I got this electrical problem resolved, the door still did not fully unlock (but you could hear the actuator engage). I knew this was meant the actuator was bad and bought a replacement. Problem 2 solved.

Replacing the actuator did not resolve the problem with opening the door from the outside. So when I replaced the actuator per the instructions in this thread, I had to remove the latch and disengage the door handle. I drilled the rivets out of the door handle and removed the handle assembly. I found both of the torsion springs broke in the handle assembly. The local salvage yard had a color match for my Explorer but the springs on every handle on it were broke so I went to the dealer. He wanted $99 for an unpainted door handle (Pearl costs a lot to paint too). So I went over to the body shop and a tech there threw me a blue Ford handle and told me to go away. So I took it home, drilled out the rivets, and took out the springs. I drilled the rivets out of my handle and put the good springs on it and then put the thing back together with a 10mm bolt and a nylon lock nut (the nut has to be on the outboard side of the assy or the assy will not fit back through the door). Anyway, a little oil and patience, problem 3 solved (for free).

The door would still not unlock fully by pulling the outside handle. I played with the latch a little and noticed that the top latch "tooth" did not release when the handle pull was pulled (verified by comparing it to the passenger side which has not been a problem). I went back to the salvage yard and got a latch and replaced it. Problem 4 solved.

Thanks to all that helped solve all of my problems, especially 87 XLT. Word to the wise, be careful when a 17 year old tries to open a frozen power lock on an Explorer with a dead battery!

JW

 

Well, I have fixed four separate problems (finally). When I was routing the P/LG jumper through the bellow in the door, I found the break in the wire so that problem is resolved. I suspect that this is a common place for wires to break since there is so many wires, so much movement, and potential for wear. Anyway, problem 1 solved.

When I got this electrical problem resolved, the door still did not fully unlock (but you could hear the actuator engage). I knew this was meant the actuator was bad and bought a replacement. Problem 2 solved.

Replacing the actuator did not resolve the problem with opening the door from the outside. So when I replaced the actuator per the instructions in this thread, I had to remove the latch and disengage the door handle. I drilled the rivets out of the door handle and removed the handle assembly. I found both of the torsion springs broke in the handle assembly. The local salvage yard had a color match for my Explorer but the springs on every handle on it were broke so I went to the dealer. He wanted $99 for an unpainted door handle (Pearl costs a lot to paint too). So I went over to the body shop and a tech there threw me a blue Ford handle and told me to go away. So I took it home, drilled out the rivets, and took out the springs. I drilled the rivets out of my handle and put the good springs on it and then put the thing back together with a 10mm bolt and a nylon lock nut (the nut has to be on the outboard side of the assy or the assy will not fit back through the door). Anyway, a little oil and patience, problem 3 solved (for free).

The door would still not unlock fully by pulling the outside handle. I played with the latch a little and noticed that the top latch "tooth" did not release when the handle pull was pulled (verified by comparing it to the passenger side which has not been a problem). I went back to the salvage yard and got a latch and replaced it. Problem 4 solved.

Thanks to all that helped solve all of my problems, especially 87 XLT. Word to the wise, be careful when a 17 year old tries to open a frozen power lock on an Explorer with a dead battery!

JW

 

Very nice job on ALL the fixes, especially the free fix on the door handle.

Who would have thought that getting a door to unlock & open would be such a major PITA??

Glad to hear it's all good again & that you didnt have to spend 7 or 8 hundred bucks to have the dealer fix it.

 

I just fixed my power door lock, driver's side as follows:

i just fixed it. there is a barrel between the door and frame, where the wires run through, there is a bolt on top of the barrel. loosen it. it takes awhile. the bottom part of the barrel will pull out eventually. (the bottom part is a electric conector. i don't know what you call it, but the wires are connected into the bottm part that pulls out. the wires from the door feed into the connector on top that remains attached to the door.) pull down the rubber sleeve on the bottom part, and there you will see the broken wire, pink/green for unlock and pink/yellow for lock. splice the broken wires together . not much room to work, and leave some play in the wires. reattach the bottom part to the top.