1985 F-150 Question
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1985 F-150 Question
I have a 1985 f-150 with a 351 windsor. The truck only has 173 thousand miles on it. I recently bought it from a friend and got it running. I have a couple problems though. I replaced the carberator with a 650 cfm 4 barrel holley carb. It ran with the stock carb just not very well. So I replaced it, well when I replaced it, I have not yet gotten it running good with the new carb. I adjusted float and idle levels to where they are supposed to be. I have gotten it running but with the gas to the floor the rpm's will not go up. My other problem is that my points on my starter sulenoid are getting really hot when I am turning the truck over. I replaced the sulenoid, battery, and wires leading too but is still getting hot. Can anyone help me out here? Thanks
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The heat issue sounds like maybe the starter is drawing excessive amps. I'd start by taking the cheapest route...clean the connections on all the main cables and wires. That's good PM anyway, good insurance.
Fuel....I'm wondering if there's another issue that prevents both the old and new carb from running good. If you want to follow that path, do a compression test on the motor.
Fuel....I'm wondering if there's another issue that prevents both the old and new carb from running good. If you want to follow that path, do a compression test on the motor.
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jets and air/fuel mix adjusted? It's not a Holley, but my Carter had to be adjusted from out-of-the-box. I had to get a jet/metering kit. I dunno if Holley requires all this set-up work or not. As for the electric choke, there should be a little wire/plug coming out of the harness up by the firewall.
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ok thanks, my stock carberator had a manual choke so would that wire still be there or would I have to run my own to something. If so how do I do that? I have a friend that knows a lot about Holley carberators so he is going to adjust check to make sure I adjusted everything right.
I'll have the Roast Duck
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From: Northshore, MN
I don't think 85 had manual chokes from the factory due to emissions. Maybe the PO cut the wire off, to get it out of his way. I think it's a white w/black wire that comes off the choke relay, and a grey w/ white wire that comes off the choke heater. Another possible issue is the bowl vent solenoids on the original carb.
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There is an old saying that says 99% of your carb problems are in the distributor. I would check it out, and see what it looks like under the cap. Could be a weak spark from worn/malfunctioning parts. Like a frozen advance or also maybe a weak coil.
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Ok well I figured out that my starter is definately drawing way to much power. I put a brand new battery in it and dies within 15 seconds. I cleaned the points of all of the wires. What's the next step? A new starter? Or is there any other tricks I could do that might get it going. Also, is there an easy way to do a compression check without spending to much money?
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From: Northshore, MN
rent or borrow a (screw in prefered) compression gauge from your local parts store. As for the starter, disconnect the starter cable from the solenoid and see if it still draws power at that end of the solenoid. At the same time, remove the starter and do a bench test with a battery charger. Check the condition of the starter cable to see if it was grounding itself on the frame.