Ignition woes
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Ignition woes
So I go to start my truck today and the damn thing wont turn over. After fifteen minutes of cursing, I took a closer look. It is a 2000 Ranger w/ 3.0 flex fuel. I have power with the key off and in the ACC. position, but when I turn the key to run or start, the power cuts out. I tried a new ignition switch, but the same thing happens. Battery tests at 12.5 volts. If anyone has any ideas or maybe a decent diagram for the ignition switch showing what the individual blades are for, I would extremely grateful. Thanks for any and all help in advance.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Durham, NC
Originally Posted by mrblonde
..I have power with the key off and in the ACC. position, but when I turn the key to run or start, the power cuts out...
Where are you measuring this "power"?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
If it's not cranking, see if the owners manual tells you where the anti theft relay is located.
Does it click when you remove it?
If it does, it looks like the moronic/PITA anti theft system has somehow been triggered & is preventing you from stealing your own truck.
Does it click when you remove it?
If it does, it looks like the moronic/PITA anti theft system has somehow been triggered & is preventing you from stealing your own truck.
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Originally Posted by Bob Ayers
Where are you measuring this "power"?
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It sounds more like a weak battery. The radio and lights work until the starter draws a lot of current and the battery can't supply enough for the dome light etc. It can also be the battery cable, or connections. If you can get it started (jump it) go to an Auto supply house and have them check out the charging/battery system (free).
Dave
Dave
Last edited by Dave257; May 28, 2006 at 06:50 PM.
Postmaster
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From: SoCal
Very good idea from Dave, see if it will jump start from another car.
You say battery voltage is 12.5 does it drop with the key turned to run?
As far as how it's wired, i dont have a wiring diagram for yours, but typical is maxi fuse supplies voltage to the ignition
switch & ignition switch supplies voltage to many smaller fuses in accy or run & to the anti theft relay & starter relay in the start position.
You say battery voltage is 12.5 does it drop with the key turned to run?
As far as how it's wired, i dont have a wiring diagram for yours, but typical is maxi fuse supplies voltage to the ignition
switch & ignition switch supplies voltage to many smaller fuses in accy or run & to the anti theft relay & starter relay in the start position.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
I'm thinking maybe what used to be called the neutral/start switch, anyway, try putting it in "N" neutral & see it it'll crank, if so, suspect the N/S switch.
Let us know what you find.
Let us know what you find.
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Well, I tried a new battery and that seems to have solved my problems. What I don't get is the old battery had a voltage reading of 12.5 volts with no load on it and the truck wouldn't start, but the new battery had a reading of 12.4 and it started right up. Go figure. Anyway, thanks for all of your input and advice guys.
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From: SW Va
The vehicles electrical system should always be "load tested" too!!!!!
Open circuit testing with a digitial voltmeter will only indicate the batteries state of charge, not it's load handling capability.
So the battery, alternator & battery cables should be checked out together, with the proper electrical load placed on them, to make shure they can out put & carry their rated power!!!!
Sounds like you had a weak cell in the battery, that just couldn't handle the electrical load on demand!!!!
Could also have been a loose or corroded battery cable connection, that got cleaned & tightened up, when you replaced the battery.
But seeing as how the battery was going on 6 years of age, it deserves to be high on the suspect list imo.
Anyway good to hear you seem to have it put right. Good feedback too!!!!
Open circuit testing with a digitial voltmeter will only indicate the batteries state of charge, not it's load handling capability.
So the battery, alternator & battery cables should be checked out together, with the proper electrical load placed on them, to make shure they can out put & carry their rated power!!!!
Sounds like you had a weak cell in the battery, that just couldn't handle the electrical load on demand!!!!
Could also have been a loose or corroded battery cable connection, that got cleaned & tightened up, when you replaced the battery.
But seeing as how the battery was going on 6 years of age, it deserves to be high on the suspect list imo.
Anyway good to hear you seem to have it put right. Good feedback too!!!!
Freshman User
Joined: May 2007
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Hey guys I'm having a similar situation. My 97 5sp. 2.3L ranger would function in the acc position, but would not crank. I leave and let it sit for 7 or 8 hours. I got a new battery, but tried to crank it up with the old battery before switching and it started like nothing ever happened. I've asked around and have heard everything from battery cables to alternators, starters and ignition switches. any ideas?
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