When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey all you 4x4 doctors out there. I got an easy question for you (but not for me).
How do I remove the hub on my '89 F-250? Its a WARN hub. I removed the 6 torx-head screws and cap and a spring fell out along with a gear with teeth on the outside and some on the inside. I also removed a clip with 2 holes that allows me to move the broken shaft in and out. Now here's where I'm stuck, How do I remove the rest of the hub? I can slide the rest out about a 1/4 inch and it stops.
Thanks in advance, FarmBoy
did you remove the lock ring from the hub. it's a thin ring that seats in a grove and keeps the hub from coming out. ttb = twin traction beam. it's the independent front suspention ford went to in 1980. decent design in stock form if you don't need to lift em real high or have leafs in the front. others would be able to tell you more about how the ttb was a really poor design on the f-250's and early f-350's because of leaf springs and the shackle configuration.
there is a ring that sits about 3/16 of an inch from the edge of the hub and it goes all the way aroun the houseing for the hub. it is hard to see if you have grease in there just get a flat head screw driver and start scrapein on the lip infront of the hub. also ttb is twin traction beam and that is what is in that truck as apposed to a solid axle.
Fords_forlife...Thats what I was talking about when I said
a clip with 2 holes that allows me to move the broken shaft in and out
There is another ring looking thing behind it but its connected to the teeth that turn the wheel.
And 76 F-150...I think I know what you are talking about.
Thanks for the replies.
I see something that would be like what you are talking about and there's a break in it thats around 7/16-1/2inch wide. How would I get a screwdriver in it?Would I stick it in that gap and twist?
Thanks for the help so far.
pry on it about 1/2-3/4" away from the gap, try to get the screw driver under it and pull it up or push it back, somtimes it comes easy sometimes it doesn't, just mess around with it untill you get it. the smaller the screw driver the easier it is to get under it.
Thanks alot man, I did it (even though I had to rig up a mini-prybar that was about paper thin from a screwdriver). Now I need to go to Autozone and get a deep-well with 4 "****" on it to remove the rest of it.
no problem. the sockets are about $20, i just tore my hubs down the other day because i had to do the ball joints of my truck so all this is still fresh in my mind. and trust me when you are trying to torque the outter one to like 80 ft/lbs you will want to kill the person that invented that stupid nut, and about half way through it you will probably get fed up and just throw it on the impact and hit it with that and call it good, i know i did. also the washer between the 2 nuts is some times a pain to get off, it has to come straight off becuase it follows a groove in the spindle and it will be stuck to the back nut with grease.