I just replaced 4 (front and rear doors) of the 6 stock speaker in my 04 X with the Pioneers TSA 6881R 4ways and like the upgraded sound ... thanks Bucky ...

Now I need to supplement this with some tight bass and am not looking to begin a D-I-Y project building enclosures etc. .. wondering if anyone has used any of the prefab premade enclosures (and what speakers) and where have you mounted them.

I'm not too jazzed about putting a box behind the 2nd and 3rd seats, so that pretty much leaves me with the rear compartment ..and I can handle that as long as I don't use too much space ..

I was on the SD/HD forum and some guys were praising the Deathbox by Decware ... seems a little clunky though 14x14x20 ...

 

Check out the JL Audio Stealthbox, I have one in my X with a 300w JL Audio amp pushing it & it hits hard. People are pretty amazed that a single 10 can hit as hard as it does.

 

200 Thanks for the suggestion .. I will check out the Stealthbox ... where do you have yours mounted?

 

I have a JL 12W6 that I am making a rear center console enclosure for, I'll post pics if I ever get it done. JL makes great subs, they also have small 6inch "special applicasion" subs that with an adaptor plate a pair would fit in the third row speaker location. But check th depth of the sub and measure the depth in the Ex first I don't know that this can be done, it is just an idea.

 

I have a buddy with an audio shop and the last ex he did was without a spending limit and the guy had dogs so no wires were allowed to be exposed. He built an amp box and mounted a sub the rear barn door. He said because they were plexy glass they made great boxes. He lined the back with dynamat and it works like a charm. I didn't get a chance to hear it or anything but he said he was happy with the way it turned out.

 

I have a JL 10W-6 in a small box behind the third row. I have quick connects on the leads that make it easy enough to take out and put plywood in or whatever I need to haul. After I am loaded I can put the sub box in, it only weighs about 20 pounds so the wife can take it out too. The JL's hit hard and crisp and you don't need a lot of speakers for a loud sound. I can post some pictures in the next couple of days.

Thanks, Bryan

 

Shadow ... what model JL are you running I went to the JL site and could not locate a JL 10W-6 ..

 

It is technically called a JL 10W6v2. I just checked it out on the website.


Bryan

 

From what I read here, it seems that the TSA6881Rs are the hot setup for replacement of door speakers.

postman....is the rest of your system stock?

Finally, how much amp would one suggest to drive the JL10W6v2? I'm assuming the stock system won't drive that. I really don;t want to get into changing he head unit.

 

Matt,
Why are you so against changing the head unit? The only reason why I could justify not changing the head unit is because of the rear DvD. I can't tell if you have the rear DvD or not but if you do not then that would be the first thing I would replace. The amps that come in these stock stereos are just a little chip that are designed to put out JUST enough power to where it can't blow the speakers. The stereo was one of my biggest gripes about the Excursion. The stock stereo totally sucks! The changers break, the front speakers are in a horrible position, its got no highs or lows nor does it get very loud (ie weak amp). I would expect something a bit more for a $50,000 truck with an engine as loud as it is. I know its based on a work truck but the Ex does not have the same target market as the SDs and I guess I would expect something extra...

Sorry, (Rant off, I guess I'm just used to european car sound systems)

My theory is that if you have a weak signal, your going to have weak sound. The amp is the first thing I change in all of my vehicles because 90% of the time the boost in sound quality is enough for me not to tear my entire interior apart to replace the speakers. With the Ex, while they sound much better, due to the way the front speakers fire into your knees your ear misses 80% of the treble being produced by the speaker. There really needs to be a tweeter mounted up by the windshield. It would totally turn the sound quality around for the front seats, which to me are the most important! Also if you don't use an aftermarket head unit your going to have to hook the sub amp up through the speaker level inputs. This means that your sub is going to be getting the horrible signal created by the factory amp. With an aftermarket piece you will be able to get a clean (pre-amp) signal directly from the CD player/Radio and it will sound much better and get a whole lot louder because you won't be limited to the levels of the factory amp. Your paying for a nice big amp for the sub, you might as well get what you pay for

As for your question about what amp to run the 10", It sounds to me like you just want something to get those lower frequencies and your not looking to add a massage option to the 3rd row correct? If that is the case I would be a higher end 200-250watt amp that will give you good sound quality. I have 450 watts going to one 12 and it gets plenty loud for me, and I'm still a young'n

That said,
I just found this killer deal on a 400watt (bridged) rockford amp at crutchfield...

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hiuxMtd...120&I=575P4002

 

Matt, yes the rest of the system is stock .. I have the DVD unit in the rear and am contemplating replacing the head unit for all the reasons stated by Turbo ... slipper slope however, $120 worth of replacements is going to end up costing me $2000 in head unit amps and sub ... over time ... the Banks exhaust is the first (among many firsts) priority for funds next month ...

I may consider going w/the sub/amp combo first .. recognizing it is suboptimum .. and then replacing the head unit ... would be nice to get the XM Sat gadget out of the cockpit and into a head unit

 

All good points...I installed a sweet system in my former Bronco with subs, etc. I enjoyed it very much. My '03 Cobra has that 460 system that is so integrated into the car with amps in the back, etc..I am leaving it all alone. (A friend added a free air sub to his Mustang's 460 system..even installed it in the rear speaker enclosure..a real stealth install.)

I'd also agree that a tweeter high up would make an immense difference.

I do not have the DVD player.

I suppose if you go to an aftermarket sytem you lose the ability to use the dual feature on the rear seats, too. Right? I'd also hate to loose that 6 disc changer...vrey convenient. I may just have to look into this though...and maybe even switch that spot for the rear controls in the console to a AC converter or the like. Hmm.

I have done so much custom stuff for this truck that it would be a fun project. Now..where to find the funds...on the verge of ordering custom Martin guitar too.

One more thought. You're right..I'd just like to fill the low end out a bit. I often listen to bluegrass, rock-a-billy and others that use an upright bass.

 

Matt, I've got a Martin D3 (i think) that is in great shape that is sitting unused in the closet ... wasn't planning on selling it ... but it could fund some stereo stuff ...

If I use the stock system to drive a sub, I presume that I have to tap into one of the (non line level .. aka powered) speaker lines ... what do I use to step this signal down to line level for the sub?

 

post man...there are indeed speaker level input converters, and some amps that also feature same. (My friend's Mustang is using an older Crutchfield amp that has speaker level inputs, so that he could retain the rest of the factory system..and I can tell ya..it rocks.)

As far as the Martin goes, if it's a D3 (something), it;s most likely a D35, easily recognized by it's 3 piece back. IMO, Martin still makes the best accoustic guitars. They now have a heavily ornamented model that retails for $100,000! I have a D35 (as well as others) and am planning the Frankenguitar on a HD35, but with other woods and such.

 

Post-Man,
Another thing to consider is that if your doing the work yourself your going to have to re-wire the whole sub if you do end up getting an aftermarket headunit. To avoid having to take apart the interior twice, go ahead and run the RCA cables to the rear just incase you do decide to purchase an aftermarket headunit. That way all you have to do is hook everything up when you get the new unit in. Just be sure and measure twice to make sure your going to have enough slack to make it all the way up and out the hole in the dash so you can take the headunit out with it still connected.