changed timingchain now wont run
changed timingchain now wont run
i bought a 1959 f 500 with a 292 i put a new timing chain in i needed the old timingchain for comparasing at the auto parts store and when i put the new one in i turned the cam gear without turning the crank gear then did same the other way numoruse times .i was told the cam gear 16 times and the crank gear 4 times so i see why it wont start just bakfires threw the carb but how do i get my cam back insink with my crank .
you need to try the classic truck forum - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=41
Originally Posted by sfm_girl
i bought a 1959 f 500 with a 292 i put a new timing chain in i needed the old timingchain for comparasing at the auto parts store and when i put the new one in i turned the cam gear without turning the crank gear then did same the other way numoruse times .i was told the cam gear 16 times and the crank gear 4 times so i see why it wont start just bakfires threw the carb but how do i get my cam back insink with my crank .
A manual would help you -- go to a book store, auto parts store or some internet vendor and see if you can't find one.
I believe it goes something like this:
Locate the timing marks on both the crank sprocket and camshaft sprocket. You're looking for a dimple, a scribed line, a notch, paint mark or something of that kind -- only one on each sprocket that you ought to be able to easily see from the front.
Rotate the crank gear clockwise so that the mark is straight up. Rotate the cam gear clockwise so that the mark is straight down and in line with the mark on the crank gear.
Remove the distributor cap -- mark it before you remove it -- it needs to go back on the same way. Verify that the rotor on the distributor is pointing to the #1 spark plug terminal. If it's not, rotate the cam sprocket one full turn at a time until it does point to the #1 plug -- close to #1 at least.
Verify that the timing marks line up and put the chain on --- put the distributor cap back on and reassemble everything. It should start.
Check timing with a timing light and adjust as necessary.
Use this at your own risk -- I'm not responsible for the result -- it's been at least 35 years since I've worked on a 1959 anything.
And for more help on engine specific questions there is a Y-Block forum,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=56
Welcome to the site!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=56
Welcome to the site!
Originally Posted by bruceatlam
A manual would help you -- go to a book store, auto parts store or some internet vendor and see if you can't find one.
I believe it goes something like this:
Rotate the crank gear clockwise so that the mark is straight up. Rotate the cam gear clockwise so that the mark is straight down and in line with the mark on the crank gear.
I believe it goes something like this:
Rotate the crank gear clockwise so that the mark is straight up. Rotate the cam gear clockwise so that the mark is straight down and in line with the mark on the crank gear.
I would pull the distributor out since you have to start from scratch to get the timing set. Turn the crank so #1 piston is at TDC. You will have to turn the cam to get the keyway to line up so the timing mark will be pointing correctly before the timing gears go on. Install the gears and chain together.
Now install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 cylinder. This will get the engine back to the initial timing. Then you can use a timing light to set the advance timing. 10 degrees BTDC is a good place to start.
Well, at least you didn't "find" the master link in the timing chain like I did many many moons ago... You needed a hammer and nailset to drive out those d**n pins in the master link.. Real hard to get back together. Heh. Justa good memory of dirty oil dripping in my face 40 years back.
tom
tom
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This thread is the funniest thing I have seen in a while. One guy is trying to describe how to set the chain like it's a Chevy, and another guy is talking about removing the master link.
First off, replacing that timing chain is a very smart move. But, I don't think most people realize how important it is to have the cam timed right. It's not going to be easy to get it right.
I recently installed a cam and chain in a 292. The cam was a custom grind, butit was on an ECK core so it was using a stock cam as a baseline. Two chains I tried were not even close to being timed right. Even with an offset key, I don't think I would have been able to get it right.
My recommendation is to get a degree wheel and a dial indicator and degree the cam with a RollMaster timing chain set, the expensive one (around $120 on ebay). If you do, you'll get maximum power from the engine.
BTW, the timing chain is set by centering the dots on the timing gears on the colored links or marked links. Looking at my shop manual, the marks are to the right and they're seperated by 5 links, or 12 link pins. The marked links might be different color, or they might have a dimple in them.
When you reinstall the timing cover make sure the crank seal is centered around the crankshaft. Because the cover doesn't have locating pins to install over, the cover can be installed too low or too high and the seal won't be centered around the crankshaft. When you install the vibration damper, it will leak if the cover is not centered properly. I use an old, broken damper that's been honed out to make it slip over the crank easily (normally, it's a press-fit). But you can eyeball it and get it pretty close.
Also, check the overflow tube on the rocker shaft on the left (passenger) side of the engine. It should be dribbling oil when the engine runs. This oil dribble feeds oil to the timing chain area. Without lubrication, you new chain will wear out too quickly.
Use STP oil treatment. I has ZDDP in it. ZDDP is needed to preserve your cam.
Good luck.
First off, replacing that timing chain is a very smart move. But, I don't think most people realize how important it is to have the cam timed right. It's not going to be easy to get it right.
I recently installed a cam and chain in a 292. The cam was a custom grind, butit was on an ECK core so it was using a stock cam as a baseline. Two chains I tried were not even close to being timed right. Even with an offset key, I don't think I would have been able to get it right.
My recommendation is to get a degree wheel and a dial indicator and degree the cam with a RollMaster timing chain set, the expensive one (around $120 on ebay). If you do, you'll get maximum power from the engine.
BTW, the timing chain is set by centering the dots on the timing gears on the colored links or marked links. Looking at my shop manual, the marks are to the right and they're seperated by 5 links, or 12 link pins. The marked links might be different color, or they might have a dimple in them.
When you reinstall the timing cover make sure the crank seal is centered around the crankshaft. Because the cover doesn't have locating pins to install over, the cover can be installed too low or too high and the seal won't be centered around the crankshaft. When you install the vibration damper, it will leak if the cover is not centered properly. I use an old, broken damper that's been honed out to make it slip over the crank easily (normally, it's a press-fit). But you can eyeball it and get it pretty close.
Also, check the overflow tube on the rocker shaft on the left (passenger) side of the engine. It should be dribbling oil when the engine runs. This oil dribble feeds oil to the timing chain area. Without lubrication, you new chain will wear out too quickly.
Use STP oil treatment. I has ZDDP in it. ZDDP is needed to preserve your cam.
Good luck.
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