Bendix steering Vs. Saginaw
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: tulsa, oklahoma
Bendix steering Vs. Saginaw
i've read many posts, and i'm still wondering what i should do. I have a 1965 ford F100 with the 352 and the 3 speed on the tree with overdrive, T85N. I replaced the original column with a column out of a 1979 f100, and the put saginaw box in replacing the original box. I've had trouble shifting gears through the gears ever since. My father inlaw is hounding me about putting the shifter in the floor. Did the 1965-1966 f100's have removable floor pans? mine doesn't but i would be more willing to cut it up if i could find one that i could slip over the whole if i ever wanted to change it back. Does anyone have any tips on adjusting the linkage so it doesn't get hung up anymore? I never had any problems shifting with my original column. If were to go back to the original column and get the bendix PS box what are the disadvantages of doing so? I'm the third owner of my truck and i hate to change an all original truck to the point that it doesn't look authentic.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 262
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From: Northern Virginia
I have a Bendex unit in my 65 250 with 352 and a c-6 automatic.I works great,I bought it used( thanx Banjo)but it has developed a small leak at the seal below the rag joint.I dont drive my truck a lot and was warned of the reliability problems with this unit.It was also recommended that an auxilliary cooler be installed with the Bendex system.I know many people have installed the Saganaw units so I'm sure someone can help you with the linkage issue.
Joe
Joe
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
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From: Central Oregon
On your questian about the floor pan, yes the 4sd trucks have the removable floor pan. I used a 65 cab on my 66 4wd, the 65 was a automatic and I had to cut out the floor pan and put in the bolt in pan from the 66 cab.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
I would look for the actual cause of your shifting difficulty. The steering gear has nothing to do with this problem it just arrived coincidently with the installation of the new column. I applaud your reluctance to install a floor shifter. Many of these floor shifter conversions are a disaster. You are on the right track by seeking information on linkage adjustments. Since the problem arrived with the column start there looking for a solution. At the bottom of the column is a plastic bushing that may be worn. Wish I could be more helpful. And fixing the floor pan is a real pain in the lower backside. Get after the real problem and tell your father-in-law to chill.
I bought a truck from a guy that installed a floor shifter. The shifter interfered with the seat so he installed buckets. The buckets changed the driving position so he installed a smaller steering wheel. The smaller steering wheel made this manual steer truck impossible to drive so he sold the truck to me. I tossed all that shifter crap and installed a Ford column, correct linkage new seat and proper steering wheel. Problem solved and I am about to drive this truck home when I get off work.
I bought a truck from a guy that installed a floor shifter. The shifter interfered with the seat so he installed buckets. The buckets changed the driving position so he installed a smaller steering wheel. The smaller steering wheel made this manual steer truck impossible to drive so he sold the truck to me. I tossed all that shifter crap and installed a Ford column, correct linkage new seat and proper steering wheel. Problem solved and I am about to drive this truck home when I get off work.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: tulsa, oklahoma
thanks william, i knew the steering box had nothing to the shifting but i was just putting that out there. As for the shifter rods, i used the ones out of my 65. it shifts fine until the truck is under a load, such as jumping on it or pulling on something. I don't know if the source of the problem is the transmission or the linkage, When the transmission is shifted to 1st gear and you take off it sounds as if its not getting fully into gear. it sounds like gear lapping. it will sometimes kick it out of gear.
Thanks for the thought on the shifter rods, for some reason i never thought about that. duh.
as for the want to keep it out of the floor, i would like to keep the truck as much original as i can and william hit the nail on the head, i could do all sorts of stuff to this truck just to fix problems associated with other "fixes"
Thanks for the thought on the shifter rods, for some reason i never thought about that. duh.
as for the want to keep it out of the floor, i would like to keep the truck as much original as i can and william hit the nail on the head, i could do all sorts of stuff to this truck just to fix problems associated with other "fixes"
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
If your shifting problems are when you are under a load, have you checked the motor or trans mounts? I would go with William on changing the shifter, I was just ansering your questian about the floor pan.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
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From: tulsa, oklahoma
i fiddle around under the truck yesterday and it would only shifted into the gears if you twisted the dirve shaft back and forth to allow the gears to mesh.
i have mixed feelings about the gear shift in the floor. if it would fix all my problems i would jump at it, but if i go with the bendix and it creates its own set of problems then i'm back where i started. i would try a diffent column but i don't think it would help and i don't think i can find one that is 3 speed and PS.
i have mixed feelings about the gear shift in the floor. if it would fix all my problems i would jump at it, but if i go with the bendix and it creates its own set of problems then i'm back where i started. i would try a diffent column but i don't think it would help and i don't think i can find one that is 3 speed and PS.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
That's awful nice of you Joe. I'm glad it has worked out well for you. I ened up changin the entire drivetrain, and that was the only way I could get the Saginaw in.
Zebra, all the other advice is absolutely on. I also concur with William in applauding your thought processes. Keep it simple if you can!
My next look would be at the shift linkage bushings. They are, after all, 40 years old, and they get sloppy with time and wear. They are cheap, and sorta easy to replace.
Good luck!
Zebra, all the other advice is absolutely on. I also concur with William in applauding your thought processes. Keep it simple if you can!
My next look would be at the shift linkage bushings. They are, after all, 40 years old, and they get sloppy with time and wear. They are cheap, and sorta easy to replace.
Good luck!
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: tulsa, oklahoma
mr. banjopicker, i replaced them with new ones a week or so ago, i'm not sure if the transmission is the source of the problems. Since you are some what of an expert on the T85N what advice do you have on the matter.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Thanks for the nice compliment!
There is a shifter adjustment procedure. I bet that is your problem, especially since you replaced the bushings. Here is the procedure:
1. Place the shifter in Neutral. Insert a 3/16ths guage pin or drill bit through the steering column shift levers and the locating hole in the spacer.
2. If the shift rods at the transmission are equipped with threaded sleeves, adjust the sleeves so they enter the shift levers on the transmission easily with the shift levers in the neutral position. (Ensure the levers are in neutral. Don't force the lever, adjust the sleeve until it slips in the lever hole easily.)
3. If the shift rods are slotted, loosed the attaching nut, make sure that the transmission shift levers are in the neutral position. Re-tighten the nuts.
4. Remove the pin or drill bit, and check.
Good luck!
There is a shifter adjustment procedure. I bet that is your problem, especially since you replaced the bushings. Here is the procedure:
1. Place the shifter in Neutral. Insert a 3/16ths guage pin or drill bit through the steering column shift levers and the locating hole in the spacer.
2. If the shift rods at the transmission are equipped with threaded sleeves, adjust the sleeves so they enter the shift levers on the transmission easily with the shift levers in the neutral position. (Ensure the levers are in neutral. Don't force the lever, adjust the sleeve until it slips in the lever hole easily.)
3. If the shift rods are slotted, loosed the attaching nut, make sure that the transmission shift levers are in the neutral position. Re-tighten the nuts.
4. Remove the pin or drill bit, and check.
Good luck!
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: tulsa, oklahoma
banjo, thanks for the info, i'll try that. i bought a column on ebay and the guy says that the shift arms on the column have 11/16 holes for the bushings do that sound right to you? doesn't to me i think mine are more like 9/16 i can switch them out most likely anyway right? Is there any chance the transmission is loading up when torque is applied. Have you found any place that makes rebuild kits for the overdrive unit?
second question, i put disc brakes on this truck and i had to buy a wilwood proportioning valve. my question is i placed the proportioning valve on the brake line going to the rear of the truck, i have since seen other write ups that show it to be on the front. my truck seems to function fine. so which is it front or back?
second question, i put disc brakes on this truck and i had to buy a wilwood proportioning valve. my question is i placed the proportioning valve on the brake line going to the rear of the truck, i have since seen other write ups that show it to be on the front. my truck seems to function fine. so which is it front or back?