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I have a 94 EB Bronco 302. The instrument illumination stopped working today (it was fine yesterday on the way home from work, but didn't work tonight). The chime for the lights isn't working. My rear lights are out (a cop pulled me over and let me know that one). The rear blinkers and break lights work though. I checked the fuses and they seem to be intact. I even tried switching the fuse that was labled the closest to the problem (postition 4 fuse - trailer lamp relay and whatnot) Any ideas? Could it be the wiring in the stereo? Their is an after market stereo in there, but I didn't put it in, so I don't know what kind of job was done on it. I've done quite a bit of stereo work before, so I know that a lot of the time there's the dim wire that just gets tied off. Maybe that came loose? I've seen cars driving around like this quite a few times, so maybe someone here has been in this situation before... Thanks
Yeah. That's the one I looked at. I'm going to go fiddle around with it right now in the day light. I took a different 15A fuse in the box, and replace #4 with it (even though the original didn't look fried) and it still didn't work...
Do the dash lights for heater controls or headlight ***** come on? Did you try twisting the headlight ****? Use a test light and check that there is power to that dash light fuse.
No dash lights come on except for the aftermarket stereo and the power point (if that is counted as being part of the dash...). I'm going to go try that test light thing... If I can figure out how to use it. It can't be that hard... I'll report back.
Well... Either I don't know how to use my light tester, it's broken, or the wrong kind. What do I clamp the clampy-part (technical term) to? And I thought I just poke the pokey-part into the fuse clamp, no? I've only seen one used once and I don't remember exactly how the procedure goes. Thanks again guys.
Well... Either I don't know how to use my light tester, it's broken, or the wrong kind. What do I clamp the clampy-part (technical term) to? And I thought I just poke the pokey-part into the fuse clamp, no? I've only seen one used once and I don't remember exactly how the procedure goes. Thanks again guys.
The clampy-part clamps on to a good ground, there should be a ground bus just above the panel with some wires plugged on to it, clamp to it.
Some times a bolt end is a good place also.
Also touch the point of the pointy part to each side of the fuse on top of it, you should see a little slit there, touch that.
The test light should light up on each side if it is good.
The fuse is fine. It has power and isn't broken. Must be the wiring somewhere between the fuse and the splitting towards different apperatis, right? Sounds scary. A lot of digging... I might have to break down and take this one in. Call it defeat.
You need to check all of the fuses both under the hood and in the fuse panel.
Pay particular attention to fuses number 10 and 11. You may also have a bad headlight switch.
I'm pretty sure the fuses in the fuse panel are all fine. I should check again though, before I spend any money. I haven't even checked under the hood. I didn't think I needed to, so I'd better do that. I thought the circuts off the fuse ran in parallel. If they do, then the light switch won't be the problem. If they run in a series, then that could definitely be it. I'll keep poking around with my volt master 2000. I was hoping not to have to take the dash off... but I'm half way there... If you think of anything else, subford, let me know. Hopefully I can get it done with out taking it to an electrician/mechanic. Or breaking anything (old plastic)...
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