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I looked on thier website and couldn't find any info on the turbo.
It's not a complete turbo. What they call their Quick-Turbo assembly consists of a 1.0 wastegated housing, WW, and a Big Head Actuator. I also don't believe they have it listed for sale seperately on their website, although you can buy it individually. If you look at some of their systems, it comes with a few of them. But, to save you the time, here's the only information they have about it: http://www.bankspower.com/Component....T03&sysid=SF01
It took me a couple weeks worth of phone calls and emails to finally get the info from them that is is a 1.0 A/R exhaust housing. They wouldn't answer my emails, and I was finally able to get a call back from someone who knew what they I was talking about when I asked what the A/R of the housing was.
That sounds like a great setup.
I like the equal size of the intake and exhaust housings. If my turbo ever takes a dump I think that's what I would get. Thanks for the info.
jt- is the van turbo bolt on? cause its sounds like the total package
Pretty much. You'll need an adaptor to fit the exhaust housing of the van turbo to our downpipe, but everything else is the same. Bolt patterns and oil feed/returns on the pedistal are the same for both turbo's. The adaptor will delete your EBPV as well.
I am tired of this surging all the time and think I will just go with the wheel for now...I would love to get the compressor housing ($400+) but I can only handle $60 right now. Should I get a bigger wastegate also?
Wasnt there a write-up on here with install of wheel with the turbo ON the truck?? Or should I just take it off...really dont want to but it might be easier than trying to crawl around on top of the motor and get the wheel in there.
Last edited by PowerStrokeMe; Jul 13, 2006 at 04:28 PM.
I am tired of this surging all the time and think I will just go with the wheel for now...I would love to get the compressor housing ($400+) but I can only handle $60 right now. Should I get a bigger wastegate also?
Wasnt there a write-up on here with install of wheel with the turbo ON the truck?? Or should I just take it off...really dont want to but it might be easier than trying to crawl around on top of the motor and get the wheel in there.
I did what you are considering with very good results. You'll get a lot of band for the buck by changing out the wheel. I did it with the turbo in the truck and found that the hardest part was keeping my back from aching while leaning WAY over the engine to reach everything.
You'll need some 1/4" drive 12 point sockets. 3/8" drive is too fat to fit between the bottom of the turbo housing and the valve cover.
Here's Johnny8's gallery of pictures that he took when installing the WW while the turbo is still in the truck.
i also tried to remove the compressor wheel while the turbo was on the truck, for my initial venture into the turbo. i had a screwdriver stuck in the exhaust side, and for the life of me i could not get the wheel off. i ended up removing it and i found it quite fun actually (my wierd mechanic personality ) and i have done it three more times since then.
Pretty much. You'll need an adaptor to fit the exhaust housing of the van turbo to our downpipe, but everything else is the same. Bolt patterns and oil feed/returns on the pedistal are the same for both turbo's. The adaptor will delete your EBPV as well.
For the sake of conversation, what is this adapter needed for the downpipe?
I will venture to say that alot of us whom are considering the Van Turbo swap already have upgraded 4" downpipes/full exhausts. I'm curious because the Van Turbo swap seems to be on the near horizon for me....
Im not really worried about loosing 1 or 2 lbs of boost Its just annoying trying to pull up the mountain and it just over boosts. So then got to take your foot out of it so i dont damage the turbo and make that annoying sound stop.
Thanks Dan...so just do the wheel and thats all then?
You have done A LOT to your truck lately Kris!! :O So you are saying I might want to go ahead and get some new turbo pedistal O rings then? LOL
most people modify their pedestals, by removing the rod and piston assy, cutting the rod off inside the pedestal, and tapping the hole and putting a plug facing inside and then assemble the cut actuator arm back in, and LEAVE THE EBPV actuator sensor (goes into the pedestal) UNPLUGGED! do not leave it just hangin there, because the shear weight of the arm not supported will cause a leak.
or do what i did, and get a $258 pedestal that does not have the EBV cast into it. nice, clean install. probably not worth the money though, oh well it's not the biggest waste of money ive spent. i have the 1.15, and after having stock at .84, i would not want to go to a 1.0 shall i do this to another truck, because i dont see much of a turbo lag difference with the 1.15, and the decreased backpressure makes your engine alot more efficient.
Im not really worried about loosing 1 or 2 lbs of boost Its just annoying trying to pull up the mountain and it just over boosts. So then got to take your foot out of it so i dont damage the turbo and make that annoying sound stop.
Thanks Dan...so just do the wheel and thats all then?
Yes, and for good measure if you still can, reconnect the WG and set the control rod to connect to the lever at about 10-12 psi. When towing you'll still easily exceed 25 psi on those big hills.