Anyone with experiance in this area, please offer advice.
I just overhauled my power steering system. I replaced my gear box with another one that I found in a wrecking yard and checked it out and replaced seals in it, drained it, and got it ready to go. It is a Bendix box (rare one, looks like a saginaw, aluminum 4 bolt cover)I put a seal kit in the power steering pump and replaced the line. Everything together and no leaks but the pump is louder than it was before. I noticed alot of air in the pump fluid, real foamy. I filled the pump before starting and I also prefilled the gear box. It has gotten somewhat better with driving it a little bit and it steers a little stiffer but feels great. What did I do wrong? Will it get better with more driving?

 

Once you have everything in place and the pump/ steering box filled with oil, start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way to the stop in one direction, then all the way in the other direction. Then recheck your fluid level; you will probably find it needs more. Do this a couple of times to get all the air out of the system. If the pump is in good shape, the noise will go away once the air is removed (at least most of the noise will leave).

You say you now have a Bendix steering box, and that you replaced the seals in it. I just removed a Bendix from my '67 F100 and replaced it with a new Ford box because I douldn't find seals for the Bendix. I searched for the seals or a seal/overhaul kit for several months before I finally gave up and bought the Ford unit (basically I spent $160.00 + to replace the seals). Where did you find the seals? Was it in a kit of some kind? Do you have part numbers for the Bendix seals? I would really appreciate any info you have. The Bendix unit is original to my truck, and I would like to put it back in if I can.

Hope "bleeding" your steering system solves the problem. And thanks for any help you can give me on the seals.

OldFords Bad attitudes

 

Thanks for the advice on the bleeding. I don't think I actually turned it both ways all the way. I'll give that a try.
As to the Bendix deal. To quote Bill Clinton, "I feel your pain"
Mine was a bendix factory also and I was lucky enough to find another one just like it in the wrecking yard. I was going to take my time finding a seal kid and re-seal it and get it ready to put on. I just did not realize how hard it was to find a seal. That input shaft seal is non existant. A National seal # 340413 is very close and if you have a dremel tool, you can cut the outer lip off and it will seat properly. You need to find a dust seal, looks like a washer, to fit perfectly over the seal before you install the c-clip. You can get one from where ever you get the seal most likley. I myself used an o-ring kit to aid my seal. I found a o-ring that will fit over the inside lip perfectly, this ads strength. I pressed it in with a large socket, fit in a dust seal, then the c-clip. It is holding up fine so far. Some people have even used some RTV blue sealant to aid in the endevor. My Ford dealership found a rebuild kit for the unit. A freind who works the counter is good with older trucks. It is a complete kit with bearings, etc, it list for $127. I think the whole thing stinks personally. But I think I got it licked. Do you know how the adjustment bolt in the top of the cover works and what it is for?

For a little more help with the seal kit, Sam at Harry's Steering Gear knows alot about the particular Bendix box and is putting together some seal kits. You can call him 1-888-783-3746.

 

Thanks for the info on the seals. I'll jot down the number and call.

The adjustment on top of the box is to set the "gear lash". The purpose is to take the slack out of the gears allowing for a less paly in the steering wheel movement. The nut is simply for locking the screw in place.

To adjust, the nut is loosened, and the screw turned in or out to loosen or tighten the lash. On older boxes with a lot of wear, you have to to be careful when making this adjustment. If you tighten it too tight, the box may bind up at the center steering point (wheels straight ahead), making it very hard to turn and/or causing a loss of steering capability.

This is due to the gears wearing unevenly; there is often a high spot on the older boxes. This is what causes the binding (and also the slop in the steering wheel.

Again, thanks for the info.

OldFords Bad attitudes

 

If you put the front on jackstands it is not only easier to bleed it is also easier on the tires and driveway. Unless of course your driveway is gravel, dirt or someother loose substance then you can disregard this suggestion

Sparky

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Mar-02 AT 02:41 PM (EST)]I had kind of the same problem as above. I had my system apart. When i put it back together, the steering was stiff and hard. It has been four months now. No noises, but I have to up the rpm's quite a bit to get it to turn. THe pump is new and it has a ford steering box. Any ideas why this is? Any help would be great.

 

I assume your idle RPM is set correctly for the transmission you have (automatic or standard). If the idle is too slow, the pump provides less pressure when turning the steering wheel.

Did you by chance replace the pulley on the pump with another one when you replaced it? A larger pulley will spin the pump slower, creating less "hydraulic pressure" for the steering system.

Those are the only two things I can think of at the moment (besides the possibility of a bad "out-of-the-box" pump.

OldFords Bad attitudes

 

After driving around awhile on Sunday the noise is gone and the pump is not any louder than it was before. I think the fluid had some air entrainment possibly causing some cavitation. All is well, at least for now. ha ha

 

I used the same pulley. I thought the pump was the problem and exchanged it for a new one. So, I don't know what the problem is.