71 250 Tight Front Discs
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 232
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From: Idaho
71 250 Tight Front Discs
I guess they were available in disc and drum that year. Any way I have had to pull the beast out of semi retirement for a daily driver. About 1 1/2 yrs ago I had the rears redone while replacing seals and at the time they said the master cylinder needed replaced as well. So about a month later the fronts got the rortors turned and reloaded calipers. So I felt I was set. Soon after the fronts were done they began to squeel and dust. I was told cheep pads do that so I thought well I'll replace with better next time. jump forward. A couple thousand miles later it is squeeling while runing down the road as well as louder getting on the brakes. I go back to NAPA and get their top pads. Jack up the truck and tires won't hardly move. I have always thought disc will move freely and these things are tight. I can't believe this is correct. It is scheduled to to a shop on wed. Can anyone get me better educated before then? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: May 2005
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Brake lines?
Let me admit right off, I am not much of a mechanic, but I enjoy reading what other people figure out and recommend.
When I went through the brakes on my '68, the first thing that people told me was to make sure that I also replaced the rubber brakelines. Besides leaking, they can also swell, and allow pressure to go forward when the pedal is pushed hard, but then when the pressure is relaxed, it can collapse and trap some pressure at the caliper.
When I went through the brakes on my '68, the first thing that people told me was to make sure that I also replaced the rubber brakelines. Besides leaking, they can also swell, and allow pressure to go forward when the pedal is pushed hard, but then when the pressure is relaxed, it can collapse and trap some pressure at the caliper.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Seattle WA.
Originally Posted by Bookman
I guess they were available in disc and drum that year. Any way I have had to pull the beast out of semi retirement for a daily driver. About 1 1/2 yrs ago I had the rears redone while replacing seals and at the time they said the master cylinder needed replaced as well. So about a month later the fronts got the rortors turned and reloaded calipers. So I felt I was set. Soon after the fronts were done they began to squeel and dust. I was told cheep pads do that so I thought well I'll replace with better next time. jump forward. A couple thousand miles later it is squeeling while runing down the road as well as louder getting on the brakes. I go back to NAPA and get their top pads. Jack up the truck and tires won't hardly move. I have always thought disc will move freely and these things are tight. I can't believe this is correct. It is scheduled to to a shop on wed. Can anyone get me better educated before then? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
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From: The Big, Oregon
Factory remanufactured calipers, they basically hone them out and put in new seals and pistons. Some use aluminum pistons instead of the factory steel or plastic pistons, that's where the corrosion issues come in.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 83
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From: St. Cloud, MN
crack the bleeder on the caliper, if the wheel frees up then it will usually be the hose from the caliper to the steel brake line. If it still doesn't want to turn it is usually in the caliper, maybe piston, or the slides are sticking. Thats the case about 98% of the time. Hope it helps.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Hello, The adjustable rod is between the master cylinder and booster. You'd have to remove the master cylinder to get to it. This should only be a problem if the master cylinder or booster had been replaced. Look at your pads with the wheel off. If the inner or outer is worn much worse than the other your slides may be dirty/corroded and not allowing the caliper to relax on the release. Id also agree with replacing the hoses. Good luck.