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I have a early 99 that i just recently did the kwik filter mod on and now im having what i think is turbo flutter. I have searched for this and all i can find is info on late 99's and up, which say to use the wicked wheel and that will solve the problem. If im not mistaken the early 99's turbo is comparable to this. The issue is at higher rpm my boost guage will flutter, i cant hear anything out of the ordinary but im very confused on what it is and how to fix it. i have the edge evolution programer on race mode. Any help would be much appreciated.
thanks
Are you be driving with a fairly steady RPMs and under faily good load, such as a hill or towing, when it does this? The boost gauge fluctuates a few psi and do you hear a psst- psst psst pst sound? If so, this is turbo surge. A wicked wheel does help on those trucks without one (as in 99.5+) but is not always a sure fix.
If this is what you're experiencing and you still have the stock (wicked) wheel on your early 99, I'm not sure of any other fixes for an early 99... There's the ATS housing but that's for 99.5+ turbos.
Can you confirm that those symptoms I described are what you're experiencing? OR..... are you experiencing more of a steady whooosh that occurs on shifts or when you let off the throttle quickly?
Im experiancing this at about 3/4 to full throttle on an everyday basis no hills and no towing. There is no noticable pst sound or anything out of the ordinary, if i didnt have a boost guage i doubt i would notice anything wrong. But watching the boost guage while accelerating i can slightly feel the power loss.
ryaneverk2 Can I....ur...should I use a Wicked Wheel with a new housing (like ATS or Banks)?I'm thinking the ATS housing will flow more air making more boost PSI, and the wheel will only distribute the incoming air better than stock. Notions on the best combo to make more power from the turbo (with addition of a wastegate mod)???? I don't want to blow up that Garrett turbo, but do want to push it - and get rid of my turbo flutter/stall.
Im experiancing this at about 3/4 to full throttle on an everyday basis no hills and no towing. There is no noticable pst sound or anything out of the ordinary, if i didnt have a boost guage i doubt i would notice anything wrong. But watching the boost guage while accelerating i can slightly feel the power loss.
If you're not noticing it in any way other than the boost gauge, I'd think it's something other than turbo surge, especially if it's on an everyday basis and not even under heavy load. I'd actually lean toward an issue with the boost gauge or the connection where the boost line taps into the intake... be it the MAP line or manifold. This isn't something I've really heard of before.
Notions on the best combo to make more power from the turbo (with addition of a wastegate mod)???? I don't want to blow up that Garrett turbo, but do want to push it - and get rid of my turbo flutter/stall.
Thanks
Cruise, go with the ATS housing and your stock turbo wheel (not the wicked wheel). Once you've got an ATS housing, the only reason to add a wicked wheel would be for increased whistle, and it may cost you a couple pounds of boost vs. the stock wheel.
The ATS housing, when looking at a compressor MAP for the turbo, shifts the choke line to the right. This means that you can run it to a bit higher boost pressures than you could with the stock housing... it should be pretty efficient still up to about 30 psi. Above that and it'll be like going over 25 with the stock housing... just superheating the air, which is not useful nor is it good for the turbo.
Also, the ATS housing is for the intake side (compressor side), while the Banks housing is for the exhaust (turbine) side. Two completely different parts. An ATS housing will cure surge and help make the turbo more efficient like I already talked about, while the Banks exhaust housing or wicked wheel alone may not cure surge, but both of those together should.
Anyway, I'd recommend the ATS housing and stock wheel... and something to address the stock wastegate actuator. I have the Banks Big Head on mine and am very pleased with it.
ryaneverk2, thanks for your help, i have checked all connections and everything seems to be fine, since this started in relation to my filter mod i feel like its something with the turbo but im just stumped. Do you know if a small exhaust leak at the manifold can cause this sort of problem?
You might try one of those Turbo Air Guides.
I think what you really need is a bigger turbo if you are getting this fluctuation. The turbo just cannot keep up with the demand for air with all that fuel that you are using in race mode. A TAG might help as it guides the air before it enters the turbo, but IMO that's only a band-aid.
Thats about right it varies about 2-3 psi from about 20 on up and a little less in the lower boost range. I havent seen anything about the TAG before i might look in to that, it would make since with the new filter its creating more turbulace on the turbo. thanks for the input
I'm thinking that your intercooler boots might be leaking. A quick check and tighten the clamps might help. I seriously doubt you are getting turbo stalling, especially if you are empty on flat terrain. What are your boost numbers when you start having the problem? Under 22-23#'s and I'm betting intercooler boots leaking. Over 23#'s and I'm assuming your ECM is trying to defuel your truck (unless you have blowoff valves or boost regulator). Where is your boost gauge reading from, map sensor line or somewhere else? If you are tapped into your map sensor line and you have a blowoff valve, you're boost gauge will flutter and not read any higher.