Turbo Upgrade Help
I was towing through the south this past weekend, between Tennessee and Ohio, and experienced severe turbo flutter. I was going around 60-65 in OD and going uphill, 12-15 PSI, flutter and loss of power. Kicked it to downshift and up we went. I did some reading and I guess the flutter is a cavitation and can ruin the turbo. Ugh. I have just under 200K on the truck and I can only assume the turbo has never been serviced.
So heres my question: Should I install a 'wicked wheel', a ported turbo intake or just bite the bullet and go 38R?
Also, while having the turbo off, should I do the EBPV delete? What is the advantage of doing this??
Details of my current mods are below vvvvvv Thanks!!
I have all of the following parts on order and will be installing them during the holidays because they are all related to each other or will be easier to install as a whole together.
Just be careful because adding parts and upgrades can get expensive quickly.
GearHead Tune https://gearheadautomotiveperformanc...ucts/PHP-Hydra
Turbo Wheel Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
High Flow Outlet Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Blank Pedestal Garrett Non-EBPV/ Blank Pedestal 99.5-03 7.3L Ford
Pedestal bolt kit Turbo Pedestal Bolt Kit for Ford 7.3L Powerstroke (99.5-03)
Gauges Riffraff Diesel Triple Gauge Pillar Kit - Manual Trans for Ford 7.3L 99-03
Bellowed Up-Pipes
foam sleeve AIS Foam Sleeve 99-03 7.3L Ford Powerstroke
MBRP Exhaust
Journal Bearing Rebuild Kit Powerstroke 7.3L Turbo Upgraded Full Rebuild Kit (1994 - 2003) ? SP Turboost Company, LLC
CNC HPx CNC FABRICATION 7.3L SD HPOP (HPx) CROSSOVER LINE - 99-03-ENGINE - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products
Wastegate Controller http://www.dieselsite.com/19995-2003...ontroller.aspx
I don't think there is any need to pay for the Garrett name on these parts. With the EBPV delete these 2 pieces are relatively simple aluminum (pedestal) and cast iron (outlet) castings. There just isn't much to screw up, on the manufacturing side.
I see you have a Bighead and Banks tuner. Is that 12-15 PSI your max boost.
If so, you may simply have a CAC boot that is loose. I had a similar problem, and the sound is strange as pressure builds to the leak point and then bleeds off.
I was towing through the south this past weekend, between Tennessee and Ohio, and experienced severe turbo flutter. I was going around 60-65 in OD and going uphill, 12-15 PSI, flutter and loss of power. Kicked it to downshift and up we went. I did some reading and I guess the flutter is a cavitation and can ruin the turbo. Ugh. I have just under 200K on the truck and I can only assume the turbo has never been serviced.
So heres my question: Should I install a 'wicked wheel', a ported turbo intake or just bite the bullet and go 38R?
Also, while having the turbo off, should I do the EBPV delete? What is the advantage of doing this??
Details of my current mods are below vvvvvv Thanks!!
Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel
Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
I see you have a Bighead and Banks tuner. Is that 12-15 PSI your max boost.
If so, you may simply have a CAC boot that is loose. I had a similar problem, and the sound is strange as pressure builds to the leak point and then bleeds off.
Once it downshifted, it was 22 psi and up the hill we went.
Looking into a new turbo wheel, high flow outlet and ebpv delete. I guess I get to delete a restrictor valve in the flow path as well. Need to do more research.
Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel
Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
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Once it downshifted, it was 22 psi and up the hill we went.
Looking into a new turbo wheel, high flow outlet and ebpv delete. I guess I get to delete a restrictor valve in the flow path as well. Need to do more research.
As soon as the financial situation allows, I'll be doing an upgrade similar to Sous. It is also almost time for a turbo. I really want a 38R, but that is a lot more extensive/expensive for this E99.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Now as far as the EBPV. I would keep it. Your in the frozen north like me. It helps with the cold weather warm up. The basics are it plugs the EX and forces hot EX back into the CYL. If you are hell bent on going without. I would grind the rivets off the flapper and remove it. Thus it is disabled and free flowing. You get way more out of a 4" EX than a delete.
I second the Barder recommendation. Great people and great parts.















