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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 07:49 AM
  #1  
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Turbo Upgrade Help

Hey guys. Im having an issue figuring out what to do here. I need to do something about a turbo issue.

I was towing through the south this past weekend, between Tennessee and Ohio, and experienced severe turbo flutter. I was going around 60-65 in OD and going uphill, 12-15 PSI, flutter and loss of power. Kicked it to downshift and up we went. I did some reading and I guess the flutter is a cavitation and can ruin the turbo. Ugh. I have just under 200K on the truck and I can only assume the turbo has never been serviced.

So heres my question: Should I install a 'wicked wheel', a ported turbo intake or just bite the bullet and go 38R?

Also, while having the turbo off, should I do the EBPV delete? What is the advantage of doing this??

Details of my current mods are below vvvvvv Thanks!!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 07:56 AM
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Just my opinion, but I would pull the turbo and rebuild it with either a RR 4/4, WW2 or SPX wheel. Like you mentioned, since you are in there you may as well get some other things done too.

I have all of the following parts on order and will be installing them during the holidays because they are all related to each other or will be easier to install as a whole together.

Just be careful because adding parts and upgrades can get expensive quickly.

GearHead Tune https://gearheadautomotiveperformanc...ucts/PHP-Hydra
Turbo Wheel Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
High Flow Outlet Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Blank Pedestal Garrett Non-EBPV/ Blank Pedestal 99.5-03 7.3L Ford
Pedestal bolt kit Turbo Pedestal Bolt Kit for Ford 7.3L Powerstroke (99.5-03)
Gauges Riffraff Diesel Triple Gauge Pillar Kit - Manual Trans for Ford 7.3L 99-03
Bellowed Up-Pipes
Amazon.com: Dorman 679-005 Exhaust Manifold Crossover Pipe: Automotive Amazon.com: Dorman 679-005 Exhaust Manifold Crossover Pipe: Automotive

foam sleeve AIS Foam Sleeve 99-03 7.3L Ford Powerstroke
MBRP Exhaust
Amazon.com: MBRP S6200P Turbo Back Single Side Exhaust System: Automotive Amazon.com: MBRP S6200P Turbo Back Single Side Exhaust System: Automotive

Journal Bearing Rebuild Kit Powerstroke 7.3L Turbo Upgraded Full Rebuild Kit (1994 - 2003) ? SP Turboost Company, LLC
CNC HPx CNC FABRICATION 7.3L SD HPOP (HPx) CROSSOVER LINE - 99-03-ENGINE - POWERSTROKE 99-03 - Products
Wastegate Controller http://www.dieselsite.com/19995-2003...ontroller.aspx
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:09 AM
  #3  
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Just an FYI, both the blank turbo pedestal and "blank" EBPV delete outlet have much less expensive alternatives. I bought both, in the RotoMaster brand, from RockAuto.
I don't think there is any need to pay for the Garrett name on these parts. With the EBPV delete these 2 pieces are relatively simple aluminum (pedestal) and cast iron (outlet) castings. There just isn't much to screw up, on the manufacturing side.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:17 AM
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From: Asheville-where weird is
It seems you should be building 5-10 more PSI before the flutter begins.
I see you have a Bighead and Banks tuner. Is that 12-15 PSI your max boost.

If so, you may simply have a CAC boot that is loose. I had a similar problem, and the sound is strange as pressure builds to the leak point and then bleeds off.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by carbon coupe
Hey guys. Im having an issue figuring out what to do here. I need to do something about a turbo issue.

I was towing through the south this past weekend, between Tennessee and Ohio, and experienced severe turbo flutter. I was going around 60-65 in OD and going uphill, 12-15 PSI, flutter and loss of power. Kicked it to downshift and up we went. I did some reading and I guess the flutter is a cavitation and can ruin the turbo. Ugh. I have just under 200K on the truck and I can only assume the turbo has never been serviced.

So heres my question: Should I install a 'wicked wheel', a ported turbo intake or just bite the bullet and go 38R?

Also, while having the turbo off, should I do the EBPV delete? What is the advantage of doing this??

Details of my current mods are below vvvvvv Thanks!!
It sounds like you are experiencing turbo surge, and it is common. If you swap your wheel out with the link below it will take care of it. Or you can go with the a billet wheel for more flow.

Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel

Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by jhl3
It seems you should be building 5-10 more PSI before the flutter begins.
I see you have a Bighead and Banks tuner. Is that 12-15 PSI your max boost.

If so, you may simply have a CAC boot that is loose. I had a similar problem, and the sound is strange as pressure builds to the leak point and then bleeds off.
No, I max at around 24. I did a check before the trip, as usual, and didnt find anything loose or out of place. All boots intact and no holes. Riff Raff boots are tough as nails.

Once it downshifted, it was 22 psi and up the hill we went.

Looking into a new turbo wheel, high flow outlet and ebpv delete. I guess I get to delete a restrictor valve in the flow path as well. Need to do more research.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:34 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by duck fan
It sounds like you are experiencing turbo surge, and it is common. If you swap your wheel out with the link below it will take care of it. Or you can go with the a billet wheel for more flow.

Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel

Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
Yeah, looking into this. I have about 200K on the turbo so I might rebuild and there are several options out there for that action as well. I need to figure out what path and parts will suit me best. I have a few clams to spend but want to maximize my buying (and turbo) power.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 09:22 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by carbon coupe
No, I max at around 24. I did a check before the trip, as usual, and didnt find anything loose or out of place. All boots intact and no holes. Riff Raff boots are tough as nails.

Once it downshifted, it was 22 psi and up the hill we went.

Looking into a new turbo wheel, high flow outlet and ebpv delete. I guess I get to delete a restrictor valve in the flow path as well. Need to do more research.
Super. The flutter on this truck seems to happen around 18 PSI. It also has RR CAC boots, and you are correct, they are awesome and tough.

As soon as the financial situation allows, I'll be doing an upgrade similar to Sous. It is also almost time for a turbo. I really want a 38R, but that is a lot more extensive/expensive for this E99.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 04:39 PM
  #9  
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Just rebuilt mine with a 360* Kit from Barder. Pretty easy job except for the stupid v-clamp on the back of the turbo. Put a WW2 in and tightened up my wastegate actuator while I was at it. i kept the EBPV because I like the warmup and engine brake funtionality. If I can get another 360k out of it before I have to rebuilt it again, I'll be a happy camper.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 05:08 PM
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No need for a "new" turbo( unless you plan on upgrading), a good compressor wheel should so the trick and as earlier post suggested might as well rebuild it. I suggest to go and check out spturboost.com perfect customer service and great quality rebuild kits and their prices are real affordable. Speak with Kevin if you have any questions about their kits
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 10:47 AM
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I would call James barder at barder turbo and chat with him. He had everything you need and is very sharp with our turbos
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 01:53 PM
  #12  
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I just did mine, I would buy the wheel and rebuild kit from Riff Raff and be done with that part. He has quality stuff.

Now as far as the EBPV. I would keep it. Your in the frozen north like me. It helps with the cold weather warm up. The basics are it plugs the EX and forces hot EX back into the CYL. If you are hell bent on going without. I would grind the rivets off the flapper and remove it. Thus it is disabled and free flowing. You get way more out of a 4" EX than a delete.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrodfeguy
Now as far as the EBPV. I would keep it. Your in the frozen north like me. It helps with the cold weather warm up. The basics are it plugs the EX and forces hot EX back into the CYL.
I like mine. Quick warmups and and exhaust brake when I'm coming down out of the mountains. I can't imagine the gains being that huge, and definitely not enough to sacrifice the functionality of it.
I second the Barder recommendation. Great people and great parts.
 
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