My Securilock system has been activated and now my truck will not start. Yes, I have the same key I have always used, I am original owner and never had any problems with this 2000 F-150 before. Just got in it after lunch yesterday and it would not turn over. The theft light blinks faster than normal. I have tried detaching and reattaching battery, didn't work. All lights and chimes function, battery reads fully charged. I tried to jump it anyway and that did not work. I really hate to spend the money on a tow truck, diagnostic fee, repair fee and any other fee Ford can come up with just because the system needs to be reset. Please Help.

 

I'm not sure the securilock system will prevent the engine from turning over. It just won't allow it to be started.

I have a key that I can't program for the truck. It will turn the engine over but it won't start it.

Tim

 

Sorry, no way to get around it.

You'll have to either

a) Hire a locksmith who has the correct equipment(and hope he gets it) or

b) Tow it to the Ford dealership for diagnois and either reprogramming or repair.

Chances are, there has been a failure in either the HEC or the PCM.

Steve

 

Jeez, I dont want to buy someting with a Bear trap like that in it!

 

Hey guys,

New here!

I have a 200 F150 also, and have never had any trouble with it what so ever.
Yesterday my wife took it to the grocery store, when she came back out the truck wouldnt crank, it would turn over, but not crank.

So I went up and give the ole college try, but no luck...I thought it was a fuse or relay but found nothing.

Symptoms:
The odometer reading read "---------" instead of the mileage.

The theft light was blinking very fast

When you turn the key, all the gauges maxed out then fell all the way back to 0.

I finally had to pull it back home(killed the battery trying to crank it.

Got home and messed with for hours, checked starter,fuel pump,altenator, all checked fine.

Replaced battery.

Then this morning I was going to call the Ford place to come get it, I walked out and decided to try it one more time and it crunk right up.

So, I drove it around the block shut it off and tried it again, started like a champ.

Then about 45 minutes ago I was driving home from town and out of the blue the truck shut off, all gauges fell out, no power steering, very little brakes and the "--------" on the odo again.
Pulled over shut it off, and it crunk right back up.

I called the Ford place and he said he had never heard of it, I would have to bring it in for testing and blah blah blah(probably for him to tell me he cant find anything or to replace the whole thing because he cant find it.

Hoping this is an easy fix and a common problem.

Any ideas?

 

This is just a wild guess... but maybe the computer is losing power. I've had a few boring hours sitting in my truck and I found if I turn the key very slowly I can get the cluster to power on and display "------" till I turn the key all the way on.

 

I am having the same prob. with my 99 F-150 with 5.4 engine and auto tranny! Here's what happened: My dumb nephew pulled the ignition cylinder "key lock" out of column and pulled wiring off turn signal/wiper switch in column! I put it all back together and now truck cranks over but will not fire up! When ignition turned to "on" the "THEFT light flashes fast, gages top out then drop and radio turns on! Does anybody out there know how to reset the pats system? Any Ideas would be awesome! Thank you in advance!
Bob

 

There is no "resetting" of the PATS system.

More likely than not, your "dumb nephew" damaged the transceiver ring around the ignition cylinder that reads the PATS key. Put the cluster into dealer test mode and see if you have a cluster DTC in the 96xx range.

 

Yesterday I bought a 2003 F150 ( first pickup in my 71 years) with only 20,700 original miles on it. Truck looks new and drives like new. My mechanic in Miami checked it, loved it, and he told me if I did not buy it to call him and he would buy it.

I received a key ring with two original keys and two FOBs. The banker that sold it to me received it from an estate settlement, and never used the FOBs because he suspected they had dead batteries. I put new batteries in the FOBS, and used the procedure in the owners manual to program them (turn key on and for eight times then click each remote). The remotes worked, but the truck began blowing the horn in short bursts every time I tried to enter the car or leave the car, and it will not start (apparently PATS thinks I am stealing it.)

I pulled out the horn fuse and tried to reprogram without success, as now the FOBs will not reprogram. In looking deeper into the problem, it seems that the FOBs may have been aftermarket, and since the banker received them from the executor of the state, they may not have known what the deal was with the FOBs.

Last night I pulled the battery cable and left the car without power hoping that this will do the trick with PATS, Securilok or whatever is preventing me from starting the car. I will try again this morning, but I am hoping I get more info before I try.

In the Fordf150 forum, someone says that the way to reset is to use the original key to open door, then put in ignition and go to ON
and leave there for 60 seconds, then pull it out, move key at least two feet away from steering column, and wait 30 seconds, then place the key back in ignition to ON and wait a few seconds which should make the theft light stop flashing, then finally try to start the car, and it should start.

Appreciate any feedback on this issue. Many thanks in advance.

 

I just reconnected my battery after an overnight with it off, and I immediately heard the distinctive clicking of the horn relay telling me that the truck is still activating some sort of anti-theft response.

I opened the car with only one key nearby, and tried the Securilock Reset Procedure. After putting the key to the ON position and waiting out 60 seconds, the chime went into a fast pace, which is as per procedure, I then removed the key from ignition, moved it 3 feet away from the steering column, and waited out 30 seconds, then re-inserted key, moved it to ON position, and waited a few seconds for chimes to stop, so far as per procedure, then I pulled the key out, re-inserted it and tried to start, and still no go, and I can still hear the horn relay clicking away. I am starting to think that this car may have an aftermarket alarm and kill switch, as the red LED under the headlamp switch continues to blink, and in looking at a couple of pictures of the headlamp switch, I did not notice the led (see attached picture). If this is indeed some crazyness from some old aftermarket alarm, apparently I woke it up by trying to reprogram the remote FOBs, as both my daughter and I drove the car on various days several times before we bought it, and there was never any problem like this.
Can anyone confirm whether the led shown in the attached pic is standard or optional factory equipment on the 2003 Ford F150 XL ?

Many thanks in advance.

 

The fobs are not OE Ford. One says Prestige on it. You may want to try searching to see if that is the brand of aftermarket alarm. The red light below the headlight switch is also not original Ford.
I have a great tool for fixing aftermarket alarms systems and has been 100% effective for me, looks like this:


wire cutter

 

Sam is correct. You do not have a PATS or Securilock problem, you have an aftermarket alarm system problem.

 

Many thanks, Sam I Am, your hunch was a good one. I have never used alarms in my cars, so the name Prestige meant nothing. I thought it was a brand of after market FOB.

I looked and found a motion sensor installed in the car, and in googling that particular device came up with a couple of possible alarms, one of them being a "Prestige" alarm.

Where the car is parked, I can't take the time to use a tool like the one you suggested, so I am going to use a different tool across the contacts of the starter Kill Relay. This will allow me to start the car and move it into the garage, where I can have good lighting in order to use the tool you showed me, and do the surgical removal of this nasty critter.

One of the hazards of purchasing a car like this one that belonged to a gent that passed on more than 3 years ago. The people involved in disposing of the estate (and thus the car) knew nothing about it, so they could be no help. Hopefully after this, I will be able to use my 2003 F150 with only 20,700 original miles on it. Thanks again !

 

It would be great if you could upload a video to Youtube of you using a paper clip on the starter relay.
That's going to hurt.
And it might even weld the paperclip to the relay.

You could remove the alarm system or you might try to figure out how it works. With miles that low the system is still likely very fresh and functional. After all, it works so well you can't even "steal" it with the key. There may be a sequence of clicks on the fob that arms it to deactivate the starter. Find the control box, get a part # and look up the instructions for it.

 

Nah! He jumpered the starter interrupt relay that was part of the add-on security system. That relay just carries the signal from the ignition switch to the big starter relay under the hood.