Bronco Q's
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Bronco Q's
What year(s) bronco do you guys think is built the toughest? Also any input about engines (small block preferred) would you recommend running in it. I heard 351W stroked out and 2G of add-ons can get ya 400 or more HP. Also any comments about axles, suspension system, gears, etc. would be appreciated. I have a couple nearby Broncos all about 6-9 years apart that i am thinking about picking up, frame off restoration and occasional mud and car shows. Thanks a lot.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
well really they are all the same as far as built tough. 78-79 are brobably the strongest because of solid front axle vs ttb front in 80-96 models. stroking an efi model can be complex but is possible
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From: Richfield MN
You would need to go to a Mass air conversion 1996 Bronco's are the only one's equiped with Mass air I believe.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=492975
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=492975
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
mass air showd up in 94 on 302 equipped broncos only, 95 is when some 5.8's got mass air. and 96 is when it was standard but not that great of an MAF setup because it was obd-II which is almost as tempermental as speed density is. check out www.fordfuelinjection.com
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Louisiana
Stock to stock, I'd say a 78 79 Bronco is stronger, b/c of the solid front axle, 205 transfer case, and they came with a 351M or 400 V8.
Either one could be built to be strong, but on the new models they came with ABS, which is better than rear drums, and most came with EFI which can be very desirable for trail use with inclines.
What type of mud? Bogs? And what size tires do you want to run?
Either one could be built to be strong, but on the new models they came with ABS, which is better than rear drums, and most came with EFI which can be very desirable for trail use with inclines.
What type of mud? Bogs? And what size tires do you want to run?
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I've always heard that a solid axle is stronger, but the only thing I break in my TTB is the outer u-joints. They are the same as the ones on the solid axle. In any case, I like the solid axle better because the steering is better. I do think its better to get 9" rear instead of the 8.8. I dont know what year they switched. They both can be built, but the 9" has far more options. Much as I hate computers, I have to say that EFI is superior to carb's.
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From: charlotte, nc
ive got the 9" on my 78', just wish it had a real diff cover on it. but i think these are a lot stronger off road wise stock than any other year, except for the more capable first gen broncs, which are expensive and hard to find. at least the 2nd and 3rd gen could use P/U parts on it, in places.
for a dependable strong off-road truck, i would go with a 2nd gen, 78-79, imho.
for a dependable strong off-road truck, i would go with a 2nd gen, 78-79, imho.
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As far as mud and terrain i would be going through i guess mostly farm fields of my buddies that we all have competitions every year, probably no rocks-ever, occasional bog/swamp. im looking to put either a 6 or 8 inch sus lift with a 3 in body w/38" boggers. personally i would like to keep whatever comes stock on the truck whether its the solid axle or the ttb also what gears would you recommend- would 4.10s be sufficient
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
for 38's you need at least 4.88 maybe even 5.13 gears. running that size tire should be done running a 10.25 sterling out back and swap in a 3/4ton hi pinnion 44 or D60. a chevy 14bolt would bolt in nicly out back as well but only on a bronco from 91 & older. anything newer would require the 10.25 rear axle.
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From: Quesnel, BC, Canada
38s would eat the ttb alive, look for the 78-79 sytle....or just educate yourself on the simplicity of a SFA swap using a pre-1980s F-series/big bronco as a a donor. Its all there, plus buying a 6" lift for the 70s trucks is between $350-$700 from places like skyjacker, rough country, etc....ttb lifts are much more...if you were thinking about driving your bronc around alot i would reccommend TTB, is far more plush, however the biggest tire I would run on that set up would be a 33 maybe 35.
As far as the body lift goes, my old 91 f150 had 6" suspension and 3" body lifts....and Ill tell you people can knock body lifts all they want, but if youre a serious DIY kind of guy, the clearance the body lift gives your chassis makes wrenching around it SO much better.
As far as the body lift goes, my old 91 f150 had 6" suspension and 3" body lifts....and Ill tell you people can knock body lifts all they want, but if youre a serious DIY kind of guy, the clearance the body lift gives your chassis makes wrenching around it SO much better.
Last edited by pud; May 22, 2006 at 12:26 PM.
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I would go with a model that has 4 wheel abs, it will make running big tires alot safer. The TTB maxes out at 36's. If your set on the 38's a SAS is a must. The 8.8 despite alot of opinions has plently of potential, however if you need bigger I believe the 10.25 has the abs sensor ring in it as well. I like the TTB and plan to do a cross over steering conversion on it to eliminate the bump steer. It has way more articulation than a solid axle and I don't plan on ever going past 36's so its good for me. I ran across a company once that builds some super heavy duty traction beams, if I remember I'll post a link.
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From: Louisiana
For 38s in strickly mud(NO rocks), that's a max for a 1/2 ton truck.
From there I'd suggest 4.56 at less, but this truck will be operated mostly off road right?, and if mostly off road 4.88s would be good or even 5.13s.
You could always get a 78 79 Bronco and like previously mention put a 14 bolt in the rear and a D60 up front. Also on a late 70s Bronco a 6" lift will clear enough room for 38s, and on the 80s + you could put a 6" suspension and cut the fenders for the extra room needed. I spent $760 for a nice 6" lift w/ skyjacker Nitro shocks on my 79 Bronco, and I have 36.8" tires, and have no problems. I almost went with 38.5x15 Boggers, but decided differnet b/c the extra $70 a tire, and I don't take it easy on my Bronco, and don't have the extra money to upgrade axles either.
With my current set up, you could do the same and 38s, but couldn't flex as much as I do, and you couldn't beat on it as hard as I do.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?userid=267137
From there I'd suggest 4.56 at less, but this truck will be operated mostly off road right?, and if mostly off road 4.88s would be good or even 5.13s.
You could always get a 78 79 Bronco and like previously mention put a 14 bolt in the rear and a D60 up front. Also on a late 70s Bronco a 6" lift will clear enough room for 38s, and on the 80s + you could put a 6" suspension and cut the fenders for the extra room needed. I spent $760 for a nice 6" lift w/ skyjacker Nitro shocks on my 79 Bronco, and I have 36.8" tires, and have no problems. I almost went with 38.5x15 Boggers, but decided differnet b/c the extra $70 a tire, and I don't take it easy on my Bronco, and don't have the extra money to upgrade axles either.
With my current set up, you could do the same and 38s, but couldn't flex as much as I do, and you couldn't beat on it as hard as I do.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?userid=267137
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I run 38 x 15.50's on my ttb and have only broken the front outer joints twice (one on each side) after upgradeing the joints, I havent had a problem yet. I dont know why the TTB has such a bad rep. I've done some serous mudding and hill climbing. (no rock crawling) my old Scout use to break the front u-joints also (Dana 44). I use to run 4.56's with a 302. But now I run 4.88's with 351. (mo better) My rear 8.8 has extensive upgrades and works great. But the 9" is easyier and cheaper to build strong.