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What is the best wood stain,the last time I stain the floor it lasted 3 months, so I was thinking how about putting the wood stain and sand it down and spray auto clear on top ..
What is the best wood stain,the last time I stain the floor it lasted 3 months, so I was thinking how about putting the wood stain and sand it down and spray auto clear on top ..
Use a marine finish. (I also do boats and did 2 woodies). Spar varnish will hold up well. However, if you leave your truck outdoors in the sun most of the time, annual revarnishing is in order. On my boats the outside varnished wood initially gets a minimum of 8 coats of varnish and 2 more coats annually. On my woodie when I had it I could go 5 years before revarnishing. It was used regularly but stored in my barn when not in use.
I used Marine Urethane Varnish. Varnished the Oak boards 20 years ago, stored them and put on the truck last year. Boards look good as when first painted.
I used automotive clear, nice heavy coats, and it didn't last long, maybe a year or two before it started chipping and peeling. I would use the marine varnish.
I'm in the process of fabricating the bed for my truck. I'm using a couple of sheets of lumber core teak plywood. I bought it years ago at a very cheap price. Wasn't aware of it but a bed is about 50" wide and plywood is 48". Anyway I'm going to use a marine grade tung oil. It has to stand up to sun. I hate refiinishing and think it will work out better. A company by the name of Jamestown (www.jamestowndistributors.com) is where I purchased it. Also if you finish with no more than 100 grit the stain will soak a little deaper. Your original stain was probably an oil base and I have second thoughts on alchol based products because of that. I do think they have a gel stain that may be better but again I would ask Mohawk.
I'm in the process of fabricating the bed for my truck. I'm using a couple of sheets of lumber core teak plywood. I bought it years ago at a very cheap price. Wasn't aware of it but a bed is about 50" wide and plywood is 48". Anyway I'm going to use a marine grade tung oil. It has to stand up to sun. I hate refiinishing and think it will work out better. A company by the name of Jamestown (www.jamestowndistributors.com) is where I purchased it. Also if you finish with no more than 100 grit the stain will soak a little deaper. Your original stain was probably an oil base and I have second thoughts on alchol based products because of that. I do think they have a gel stain that may be better but again I would ask Mohawk.
Jamestown are knowledable suppliers to the wooden boat community. Did you buy one of the teak oils or did you buy Cetol? If you are using one of the teak oils, that will require regular applications. About every 6 weeks if it is in the sun or the teak ply facing will start to bleach out going gray. For a longer term finish the Cetol products in my experience are the best products for what I call horizontal teak. Horizontal teak in the sun is one of the more challeging surfaces to hold varnish.
You my want to know this. As cabinetmaker on of the first projects I did on the side was a burl bar top. When I applied the varnish it would bubble. I stripped it about 3 time and it kept bubbling. One day I bumped into an old finisher at the market and happpend to tell him about my dilema. He said your your not applying it in direct sunlight are you. Well I was and it was about 100 degrees outside. That was the problem. He said I could apply it inside the garage and then throw it outside but do not apply it outside on a day as hot as it had been. Now that was a bartop varnish. I do not know if marine grade will behave any different. Jamestown does sell a bottom boat paint and I may use that on the unerside but it not cheap. I think all the finishes will last longer out of the sun. Yes the Cetol product is the wa to go.