This is the second time posting my problem - the first time I thought it was a fuel problem which I found it wasn't - thanks to those who helped me, especially subford!

The van will not start in foul weather... whether it's too cold, too hot or rainy. If I try to start it, sometimes it'll make like it's dieseling right after cranking for a couple of seconds. However, it'll start no problems on dry, sunny days around 70 degrees.

I have fuel at the rail - am thinking it's the autozone ignition module I put in last year or coil or both. (haven't checked for spark) Called the Ford dealership and they advised both coil and module be replaced at the same time.

Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience with a fix before I start getting dirty... thanks ~rich

 

How long since you replaced the cap, wires, and plugs? I'm betting on weak ignition parts.

 

last year on cap, rotors and wires - plugs are bosch platinums have about 10k on them

 

> However, it'll start no problems on dry, sunny days around 70 degrees

Check the choke.

 

Sounds like my old '87. Wouldn't start in damp or rainy weather. On a foggy morning it would give me trouble. I would open the hood, let the sun shine in and it would fire right up.

The plug wires were absorbing moisture and shorting out. Moisture was getting in the cap which had a slight oil film on it, and probably traces of carbon.

I'd replace the wires, cap and rotor. I'd also replace the plugs with Motorcraft® brand. Mine didn't like platinums.

 

ACK! replace the plug wires you say? They're brand new!!! However, it would be good to replace the cap and rotor.

~rich

 

If he has a fuel rail, that means it's fuel injected, right? Would he have a choke? I'm not all that familiar with the earler systems, since I've only had the 8 injector models or the 2bbl. carb models.

 

First, there's a huge difference in quality from one brand of plug wires to another. If you got Autolite or Motorcraft wires, you should be ok. If, however, you got store brand ones, I'd trash them. When I was a kid and had more money than sense, I'd replace all the ignition stuff any time I'd buy a used car. I have actually put brand new plug wires on a car that were worse than the 10 year old factory wires with 100k miles of wear on them that I took off.

Second, I'll bet that your cap has two snaps that hold it down, right? I can't tell you the number of times that I've seen a cap with one of the snaps loose, broken, or missing. If that's the case, then the inside of the cap and the rotor are going to be corroded. Any humidity at all is going to make the problem even worse. Here's what I'd do. I'd take the cap and rotor off and inspect them. Check to make sure the cap was snapped down snugly. I'd say you'll find corrosion on the cap and rotor contacts. If it's not very bad, you *might* get away with cleaning them. It's probably just easier to buy a good quality cap and rotor kit. Also, be careful about quality on those parts as well. I've seen some brands that the contacts inside the cap were almost always installed crooked. What good is that?

Lastly, I'm sure you're going to get a few more people say what someone else already did. Our Fords don't seem to like Bosch plugs in particular. I know they're more expensive, and come highly promoted. I bought a set of Bosch Platinum +4's when the first came out, and put them in my 75k mile Ranger 4.0. It ran worse with the expensive Bosch's than with the original Motorcrafts. I finally replaced them with Autolites, and it smoothed out considerably. I know that's just antecdotal evidence, but over the last few years, I've heard a LOT of people say similar things.

Good Luck!

 

OK, thanks - but I did a quick check for spark coming from the coil and found it's not sparking when cranking ( van is in a no-start mood right now )

HOWEVER, after I turn the key to OFF, it throws nice sparks in equal pulses for as long as the fuel pumps are running AND THE MOTOR IS NOT TURNING! I thought the distributor had to be turning for the ignition circuit to pulse? I guess this explains the dieseling effect I was getting...

zap - zap - zap.

Also, it sounds like there's a relay that's clicking in sync with the spark or it may be the coil or possibly the coil grounding out but there are definitely two distinct zapping / clicking noises in sync.

If someone had a diagram of the ignition circuit for this model van I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks a lot guys (and ladies) ~Rich

 

no one has anything else?

~rich

 

**UPDATE**

Spoke with ford tech on the phone - although they no longer have working knowledge of the older vans and couldn't say what the problem was, he vaguely remembered that EEC-IV ignition modules and coils should be replaced together. Something I didn't do.

Today, bought new module and coil, discoed battery for 30+ minutes to reset computer, installed and reset timing, sprayed a little carb cleaner down the TB for good measure - WORKS LIKE A CHAMP!

Thanks to all who helped me. Good luck with your vehicles. ~Rich

 

Glad you got it fixed. If it does it again use the NAPA premium igntion parts. These are made by STANDARD the same people that make the motorcraft ones.

 

van-man, somehow I missed this topic as new. I am glad you got it running.