Brake problems after new pads
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Calgary Canada
Brake problems after new pads
I'm having a problem on my 98 Acura EL. Last weekend I replaced the front brake pads, as they were down to the squealers. Here's what I did:
1) Remove one bolt on caliper and swing it up.
2) slide old pads out of the cage, compare with new pads (looks good)
3) compress piston with C-clamp (using old pads)
4) lubricate back of new pads and piston with disc brake lube
5) swing caliper back in and replace and tighten bolt
Sounds simple, and it really was, but I'm afraid I must have messed something up. Now when the car is driven the front brakes are definetly rubbing. I can feel it from the drivers seat and you can hear something as well. Also the brake pedal feels a bit soft.
I'm thinking I must have somehow gotten sir into the brake lines, but I can't figure out how that can be possible, since I didn't open them up.
The little lady is in Houston until sunday, and if I don't have it fixed by them I'm going to be in deep poo. Thoughts?
1) Remove one bolt on caliper and swing it up.
2) slide old pads out of the cage, compare with new pads (looks good)
3) compress piston with C-clamp (using old pads)
4) lubricate back of new pads and piston with disc brake lube
5) swing caliper back in and replace and tighten bolt
Sounds simple, and it really was, but I'm afraid I must have messed something up. Now when the car is driven the front brakes are definetly rubbing. I can feel it from the drivers seat and you can hear something as well. Also the brake pedal feels a bit soft.
I'm thinking I must have somehow gotten sir into the brake lines, but I can't figure out how that can be possible, since I didn't open them up.
The little lady is in Houston until sunday, and if I don't have it fixed by them I'm going to be in deep poo. Thoughts?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 14,413
Likes: 3
From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
I ALWAYS loosen the bleeder screw before compressing the caliper pistons back in. I have heard it is not good to compress them and allow the fluid to go back into the master cylinder reservoir. Also, it gets rid of some of the old fluid that consistently heats up being that close to the rotor and pads.
I would bleed the lines (all of them just for the heck of it). Start at the right rear, then left rear, the right front and finally left front. Doesn't hurt and you get nice clean new fluid in the lines. If you don't do them all at LEAST do the two fronts.
-Matt
I would bleed the lines (all of them just for the heck of it). Start at the right rear, then left rear, the right front and finally left front. Doesn't hurt and you get nice clean new fluid in the lines. If you don't do them all at LEAST do the two fronts.
-Matt
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 1
From: Mercer County, OH
Perhaps the new brake pads have a little different surface area than the previous ones and they're rubbing on an area of the rotor that is rusty. If that's so then they'll rub for a while untill they seat to the pads.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,465
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From: Calgary Canada
I had planned to bleed the brakes as well, but I was in a hurry. I'll be bleeding the brakes tomorow morning, and I'm very hopeful that that's the problem. But still I can't see how that could be.
I don't think it's a pad seating issue, as I did several hard stops to get them seated. Has anyone else had this problem?
I don't think it's a pad seating issue, as I did several hard stops to get them seated. Has anyone else had this problem?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, canada
Did you clean and lubricate the mounting pins/bolts so that the caliper is free to float drom side to side? Could be a problem, especially if the old pads were worn more on one side than the other.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,465
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From: Calgary Canada
Well, it's kind of tough to explain, but this Honda caliper doesn't have pins like I'm used to. The pins are covered by a rubber boot, and they don't come out when you take the caliper off. According to haynes, it's not nessesary to take them out. I'm not even sure how I would take them out.
I do agree that a problem with them could cause the symptoms I've got, maybe I'll dissasemble them as well.
I do agree that a problem with them could cause the symptoms I've got, maybe I'll dissasemble them as well.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 252
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From: Illinois
I'll bet the calipers aren't sliding. The mounting bolts probably go through a sleeve. When you tighten the bolts, they tighten against the sleeves and the caliper floats on the sleeves. If you take the rubber boots off (they'll probably rip) you should be able to push or drive the sleeves out and clean them up. Stuck calipers can cause a low pedal.
Bleeding the brakes is a good idea also for the reasons Matt mentioned.
Bleeding the brakes is a good idea also for the reasons Matt mentioned.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
> as they were down to the squealers
> Now when the car is driven the front brakes are definetly rubbing
If they were squealing you probably should have turned the rotors to square them up and to smooth them.
Did you torque the bolts to spec? Unless the boot is ripped, there is no need to remove the bolt. Not that the boot does much anyway.
fwiw: That disc brake squeal stuff is for Chevies. Your car should have come with a metal shim on the back?
> Now when the car is driven the front brakes are definetly rubbing
If they were squealing you probably should have turned the rotors to square them up and to smooth them.
Did you torque the bolts to spec? Unless the boot is ripped, there is no need to remove the bolt. Not that the boot does much anyway.
fwiw: That disc brake squeal stuff is for Chevies. Your car should have come with a metal shim on the back?
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Posting Guru
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The pins have to come out, and the boots will not tear if you take a small sharp pick and grab the very edge. They need to be removed and cleanded/lubed so that the caliper slides free and easy. As said you need to have rotors turned if the squeaker is rubbing. You car is front wheel drive, bleed them right rear, left front, left rear, right front, in that order. You use a X pattern in your brakes, not a front back split like trucks. Also, on ABS vehicles, you should always open the bleeder to push the piston back in as this will keep rust and debris from entering the ABS module which could cause massive problems.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Calgary Canada
The pins slide very nicely, and I managed not to tear the boots, even without nicking them. I also bled all four corners very fully.
I'm a little embarrassed to admit it, but my original diagnosis was wrong, I don't seem have the pads dragging. I tested this yesterday by taking a nice trip for twenty minuts on the highway and coasting to a stop without using my brakes. I used the temperature probe on my multimeter to check the rotor temps and both front ones were exactly the same, 36 degrees celcius. (That's something like ninety five F.) Since the air temperatures were something like 25 C, that's pretty cool.
The odd noises must be related to the old summer tires that I just got around to putting on. I'm not pleased with them at all, but that's another story.
So, I guess the moral of this story is that you should only do one repair or mod at a time so you can troubleshoot easier. Just to prove myself right, I may put the snow tires back on one weekend and take it for a drive. Seems silly, but it's the only way I'll get any peice of mind.
Those who wish to insult me, please do so here ----->
I'm a little embarrassed to admit it, but my original diagnosis was wrong, I don't seem have the pads dragging. I tested this yesterday by taking a nice trip for twenty minuts on the highway and coasting to a stop without using my brakes. I used the temperature probe on my multimeter to check the rotor temps and both front ones were exactly the same, 36 degrees celcius. (That's something like ninety five F.) Since the air temperatures were something like 25 C, that's pretty cool.
The odd noises must be related to the old summer tires that I just got around to putting on. I'm not pleased with them at all, but that's another story.
So, I guess the moral of this story is that you should only do one repair or mod at a time so you can troubleshoot easier. Just to prove myself right, I may put the snow tires back on one weekend and take it for a drive. Seems silly, but it's the only way I'll get any peice of mind.
Those who wish to insult me, please do so here ----->